Jump to content

Cant Get Wire On The Battery Terminal

bgabrielse06@hotmail.com

Recommended Posts

bgabrielse06@hotmail.com Enthusiast

[email protected]

Posted
Posted

so im trying to hook up some lights on the rear bumper of my truck,facing the rear, for when i hook up to trailers, and for extra light at night. i got all the wires ran already, but i can not get a wire hooked up to the battery for the life of me. my battery has the terminals on the side, they are flush, and the battery cable has a bolt on it that goes into the battery, but there is not enough threads on it, and its not long enough to screw in after i hook up my wire to it. are there any wires under the hood i can splice into for power? or should i just try to splice it into the cigarette lighter wires.

newdeal Enthusiast

newdeal

Posted
Posted
so im trying to hook up some lights on the rear bumper of my truck,facing the rear, for when i hook up to trailers, and for extra light at night. i got all the wires ran already, but i can not get a wire hooked up to the battery for the life of me. my battery has the terminals on the side, they are flush, and the battery cable has a bolt on it that goes into the battery, but there is not enough threads on it, and its not long enough to screw in after i hook up my wire to it. are there any wires under the hood i can splice into for power? or should i just try to splice it into the cigarette lighter wires.

 

 

There must be enough threads for it to attatch to a thin flat ring terminal. Just attatch the wire to a small ring terminal and hook it on that way you dont need to cut and you can determine yourself what size fuse to put on it and if the fuse blows you won't lose other things with it

bgabrielse06@hotmail.com Enthusiast

[email protected]

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i tried the small ring terminal, does not work! tried for a half hour. ive wired up countless sound systems, fog lights, etc..., i just can not get it on. i guess i will try harder tomorrow, got frustrated tonight so i gave up. you have a good point with the fuse thing, thanks for the comment!

newdeal Enthusiast

newdeal

Posted
Posted
i tried the small ring terminal, does not work! tried for a half hour. ive wired up countless sound systems, fog lights, etc..., i just can not get it on. i guess i will try harder tomorrow, got frustrated tonight so i gave up. you have a good point with the fuse thing, thanks for the comment!

 

 

not sure what doesn't work about it however they make ones that are yellow size that the ring sticks out well past the area where the wire attatches, not sure if that will work or not but if it was me I would use one of those, if it won't fit on the bolt I would cut it so it was a U instead of a ring and bend the ends of the U apart until it fit on the bolt, then I would put the wire in and smash it with a hammer so it was as flat as possible, it must attatch unless there is only one thread in the battery which I seriously doubt is the case.

06sierravmax Enthusiast

06sierravmax

Posted
Posted

They sell a special bolt at auto parts places that you can use. It replaces the factory bolt. There is a smaller bolt that bolts into the large bolt. You use the smaller bolt to wire up accesories with ring terminals. They are usually brass and are gold in color. This one is silver. Click here

chakis24 Senior Enthusiast

chakis24

Posted
Posted

isnt there a constant power wire in the trailer hitch? why not hook to that and wire the switch from that? either run the switch to the dash, or install the switch in the bed?

cghbuilder86 Enthusiast

cghbuilder86

Posted
Posted

Yeah, there is a ridge around the rubber that fits into a groove on the battery it is made to seal up tight. There is no way to put a "0" ring under it. Even with a longer bolt The rubber seal is not going to allow the teminal to seat right with an "0" ring under it. You could just put the wire against the batter terminal, sandwich it in. Or you can buy the adapter which is what I would recommend. I happen to have some pics handy from when I installed and amp on my truck.

post-75159-1291683714_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683772_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683797_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683832_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683893_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683714_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683772_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683797_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683832_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683893_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683714_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683772_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683797_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683832_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683893_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683714_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683772_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683797_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683832_thumb.jpg

post-75159-1291683893_thumb.jpg

bgabrielse06@hotmail.com Enthusiast

[email protected]

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes! thank you colby!, this is the first time ive ever wired something up on this truck, my last two cars have had the battery terminals on the top, which made it easy. but thanks guys, i didnt know they made an adapter for it. i will go to advanced auto parts tomorrow and see if they sell it!

sonjaab Senior Enthusiast

sonjaab

Posted
Posted

Go to a SNOWPLOW dealer/installer !

 

They have a special bolt that replaces the factory batt. cable bolt specially

made to attach ring cable ends to run power to the plow motor.

 

Prob. the same deal 06Sierra mentioned !

4wd Enthusiast

4wd

Posted
Posted
Yeah, there is a ridge around the rubber that fits into a groove on the battery it is made to seal up tight. There is no way to put a "0" ring under it. Even with a longer bolt The rubber seal is not going to allow the teminal to seat right with an "0" ring under it. You could just put the wire against the batter terminal, sandwich it in. Or you can buy the adapter which is what I would recommend. I happen to have some pics handy from when I installed and amp on my truck.

 

thank you, good to know about this battery terminal adapter

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

Oh, and for what it's worth, I've trimmed away the rubber around the terminal in order to sandwich an o-ring connector in there on an older truck.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...