Jump to content

5.3 To A 6.0


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys. Im pretty new (knowledge wise) to engines and engine modifications. Ive seen a few people modify thier 5.3's to 6.0's. Ive also heard that they are comparable to an ls2. I want to make my 5.3 a 6.0 and then some. What all would i need to change, modify, upgrade, add to reach that goal? Also if i had the 5.3 to 6.0 conversion and i wanted to buy an aftermarket performance part for it would i buy it for a 6.0 liter or for a 5.3 liter? I apologize if this is too much work.

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

it's not modifying the 5.3 to a 6.0, it's swapping the 5.3 for a 6.0, as in pulling and replacing the motor.

it is a very easy swap, just unbolt the 5.3 and drop the 6.0 in it's place. everything bolts right back up.

 

the second part of your question depends on what part you are looking for.

Guest pjblurton
Posted
Hey guys. Im pretty new (knowledge wise) to engines and engine modifications. Ive seen a few people modify thier 5.3's to 6.0's. Ive also heard that they are comparable to an ls2. I want to make my 5.3 a 6.0 and then some. What all would i need to change, modify, upgrade, add to reach that goal? Also if i had the 5.3 to 6.0 conversion and i wanted to buy an aftermarket performance part for it would i buy it for a 6.0 liter or for a 5.3 liter? I apologize if this is too much work.

 

I'm not really sure what your asking here. Do you want to bore your existing 5.3 out to 6.0 or do you want to replace your 5.3 with a 6.0?

Your GenIII 5.3 already has the same stroke as the 6.0 ( 92 mm ) but has a smaller bore 3.78" vs 4.00".

I suppose you might find a machine shop willing to bore out the other 0.22" but that is A LOT of machine work.

(That's like boring the motor .030 over 7+ times).

I would guess the machine work and replacement internals would cost you more than starting with a rebuild-able salvage 6.0.

Posted

When looking for performance, people get way too hung up on displacement. Yes it can help BUT at the same time the heads and cam are where airflow comes and goes from.

 

A 6.0l is a good place to start for performance but from there do not fall into the "magazine" rut, magazines push advertisers parts and usually those are mediocre performing and expensive.

 

Once you have a nice CAI and exhaust you need to decide if a mild cam like a ZO6 cam is right or if you are looking to add more serious power. If looking to get serious, ported heads and a complimentary cam can add a LOT of power.

Posted

or save your money and get a blower. easiest fix...then you gotta worry about tranny...whats ur budget on this?? if you want lets say another 130 RWHP its gonna cost ya a little bit of money

Posted
it's not modifying the 5.3 to a 6.0, it's swapping the 5.3 for a 6.0, as in pulling and replacing the motor.

it is a very easy swap, just unbolt the 5.3 and drop the 6.0 in it's place. everything bolts right back up.

 

the second part of your question depends on what part you are looking for.

 

 

So you are saying no re-programing is required? Like to see that one, much more time and $$$ is involved than an easy swap would indicate.

Posted
it's not modifying the 5.3 to a 6.0, it's swapping the 5.3 for a 6.0, as in pulling and replacing the motor.

it is a very easy swap, just unbolt the 5.3 and drop the 6.0 in it's place. everything bolts right back up.

 

the second part of your question depends on what part you are looking for.

 

 

So you are saying no re-programing is required? Like to see that one, much more time and $$$ is involved than an easy swap would indicate.

 

Some programing is required. You would have to do a crank relearn for the 6.0 (or any new engine) and it would be best to have it tuned for the new engine.

Posted

ive done this, that was my original plan too just swap in a 6 litre. it NEVER goes that way, always something you wanna do. 15 grand later i finally had a motor/drivetrain that could handle it and actually use it. you wouldnt have to program anything, just find a computer from a scrap yard. like people dont realize the amount of work and money it takes to do that stuff. chances are its an automatic too LOL. 6 litre bolted to a 4l60 would be a friggin joke in the first place...i didnt have that problem i started out with an nv3500 5 speed. just threw in a heavy duty Sachs clutch. i went thru 2 rear diffs, tranny syncro's, motor mounts, driveshafts, transfer case issues out the ying yang, axle wrap bull$hit...ended up using a 14 bolt semi-floater....you add power your asking for trouble and an empty wallet. trust me. i was 19 years old and figured i could throw 500 ft lbs of torque at factory drivetrain components. all im tryin to say is if your gonna just slap a lq4 in a truck thats already got a 5.3 is a waste of time and money. put a set of heads/cam/long tubes and ur laughin. dont waste ur money and time. your knuckles and temper wil thakn you later

Posted

I think the 4L60E 8.5" 10-bolt combo should be fine so long as it does not have a gov-loc and is used for the street/strip, heavy offroad and big tires is another story, all kinds of shocks loads and inconsistent traction can do a lot of damage.

 

The 4L60E gets a bad rap because so few take the time to put it together right, most shops just try to throw parts at it rather than blueprint it properly.

Posted
Yeah, it MIGHT do that, but some people don't live where there's emissions. :sigh: But, I'm not saying riding around with the cel on is a good thing either.

 

 

I miss Carolina already. :troll:

 

 

The 4L60 can handle the power if built correctly, and yes you can get a computer from the yard but must be VIN coded with Tech2 and programmed, but now you are talking $$$$$ of additional money than just a simple swap of an engine.

 

This is NOT as easy as it seams gents.

 

This is why you pay extra for Justin to re flash a computer from another truck and it must be in the correct VIN range.

 

Trade the truck for a factory equiped 6.0 or 6.2 and youll be much happier with a drive train that was meant to handle it. You could always go the forced air route but still that is mucho $$ and tranny upgrades also.

Posted

I put multi-port fuel injection on a non-fuel injected 1984 S10.... it is a major headache, this would be easier in some ways and much harder in other ways. Dealing with the computer components is expensive. I agree that you'd be better off getting a truck with 6.0 or 6.2 already in it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,836
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    hotfish
    Newest Member
    hotfish
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 839 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did you ever get this worked out? Mike is doing the two start thing now too. This is after a new camera back in December. 
    • I’m doing an experiment on a vehicle I don’t have much money in. I’m going by the premise that after they last 100K miles they were no mechanical problems with assembly. Or defects with the parts. With oil changes by the minder for the first 127K miles when I acquired it. I quickly went through low mileage oil changes then settled on 5k oil changes with close to 170K miles on the vehicle currently. I did have the option to turn off the cylinder deactivation. I didn’t on this vehicle because in ECONOMY mode at least half the time. It should be a no brainer frequent oil changes are the key. The manufacturer gets away with the long oil changes with its severe service  maintenance. Just ask them what is normal. 
    • Even set to "recirculated", the air pushes out and is hot. I have noticed that sometime it doesn't want to switch between recirculated/vented air. Say it is set to Circulated Air and I want to switch to Vented, when I click the Vented button, it just quickly lights up/clicks and immediatly switches back to Circulated. It's done this a few times now. So maybe it is an actuator getting stuck? But then, that doesn't explain the hot air when everything is off does it?
    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...