Jump to content

Grind Noise At Morning Startup


Recommended Posts

Posted

Anybody ever noticed a noise that sounds about like a quick grind at startup, first thing in the morning?

 

For me, it only occurs around this time of year when it is in the teens in the early morning. At startup, you turn the key and the engine cranks and surges like normal. However, just a split second before it starts it makes a "quick grind noise" (think of a big zipper being zipped real fast :D ), coming from under the hood as far as I can tell. The engine runs fine though and I don't hear anything else unusual other than that.

 

This doesn't happen at all outside of the winter months and once the truck has had its initial start for the day, I don't hear the noise the rest of the day's startups again until the next morning.

 

Anybody else experience this or have any idea what may be causing this and if it's something of concern?

 

 

Tried a search but couldn't find anything related. If this has been covered, I apologize.

Posted

Had that in my 2006 Sierra, 2007 Impala, and now 2010 Sierra 2500HD. Its the starter just not disengaging. Never had any type of failure or anything and it only does it at first cold startup.

Posted

Pretty sure I have noticed it on anything around 98 or newer. Never had an issue related to it though. Definitely only have heard it in the cold though.

Posted

I have it too, usually under 40 degree temps. Mine does not sound like the starter though, sounds like its coming from the top of the engine, but not a lifter.

Posted

I have the same issue as the original poster, except it has occurred in warmer temperatures, not just when it is cold (although it occurs more often whe it is cold). Due to the occurrence in warmer temperatures, should I be concerned that the starter is beginning to fail and should I go ahead and replace it? Advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Posted

I have the same 'grinding' noise as well but I am not sure if we are all hearing the same noise. Mine happens when it is pretty cold (like the -24C start this morning). On my truck it is the power steering pump being starved for fluid (thick when cold) for the first second or two. I had power steering pump problems on a previous vehicle (Jeep GC) and know exactly what they sound like. That said, it will allegedly not do any damage to the pump but it definately is annoying. If it happens in warmer temps, you may have additional or unrelated issues.

Posted
I have the same 'grinding' noise as well but I am not sure if we are all hearing the same noise. Mine happens when it is pretty cold (like the -24C start this morning). On my truck it is the power steering pump being starved for fluid (thick when cold) for the first second or two. I had power steering pump problems on a previous vehicle (Jeep GC) and know exactly what they sound like. That said, it will allegedly not do any damage to the pump but it definately is annoying. If it happens in warmer temps, you may have additional or unrelated issues.

We have a winner...........

 

If you still think it is the starter, pull the accessory drive belt off before you start it in the morning. :dunno:

 

The power steering fluid can be flushed with the GM Cold Climate fluid or a quality full synthetic like Amsoil.

My '98 has been doing it all it's life and while I SHOULD flush it, it has over 195,000 miles on it like this and

I figure that if the pump was going to die from it, it would have already. Besides, as any tech will tell ya, our

vehicles always seem to come last........lol.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
    • Question for you Grumpy, why is diesel so much more than gasoline? Seems to me that it may be slightly a little less refined than gas and it doesn't have 10% alcohol which presumably lowers the price of gas
    • Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...