-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
-
Forum Statistics
250.3k
Total Topics2.7m
Total Posts -
Member Statistics
342,686
Total Members8,960
Most Online
-
Who's Online 2 Members, 1 Anonymous, 417 Guests (See full list)
-
Latest Articles
-
Posts
-
-
.thumb.JPG.2c573de60d3a3a4407c7d92298db46dd.JPG)
By Grumpy Bear · Posted
Then you're saying the motor is full cold on the lowest mark of the sticks range. So,... you intentionally short your oil change a full quart? 😬 Yikes!! 😱 Every motor I've ever changed oil in over 64 years of oil changing that level has been at the top when the book amount of oil is put in and level checked by the OEM procedure. Kind'a the point of the top of the range. A double check if you will. Have any idea how much of a motors oil is not in the pan at peak pump volume? (second stage at red line). Depends on the motor but 2 quarts isn't out of the question. This one quart range got started when pans held 3-1/2 - 4 quarts. With 1.5 - 2 quarts circulating a motor 1 quart low would, could and often did spin a bearing as the pump suction became uncovered. Air is a pour lubricant. That low mark told the dummy operating it he was a tea spoon away for pulling the pin on that grenade. We have a bit more cushion today with much larger pans, windage trays and such, but we also have more oil in circulation and rings that are not as adept at oil control and some truly strange pan venting systems that will suck a pan dry enough to be trouble pretty quick if not in good repair. Give an automatic transmission stick a good look (If you can find a trans with a stick). They are clearly marked for both a cold range and a hot range and many like the JATCO's even have a table in the book showing level V temperature by degrees and voltage and mm on the stick. Even my 6L80E is setup that way. Engine Oil pan sticks are legacy one quart markers to keep Joey Bumpstick's motor in play. -
Humm! Homer, if you read what I actually wrote, you might gain understanding. SMH.....
-
By Victorlani · Posted
I repaired my BaKflip MX4 hinge. I found a broken Tonneau on Facebook . A guy sold it for $40. I was able to remove the hinge on that. One of the hinge is also tripped but I still have 3 hinges left and I used the hinge closest to the cab. It took me 2 minutes to remove the hinge. It was not attached with any glue. It simply slides out. Undoing the seal on the side is the hardest part and it just slides back in. I don’t understand the liability excuse. There is no reason why they cannot replace the hinge. Now it’s perfect again. I was able to replace the latch as well using the part on the broken one. I got lucky!!!! -
By Victorlani · Posted
I repaired my BaKflip MX4 hinge. I found a broken Tonneau on Facebook . A guy sold it for $40. I was able to remove the hinge on that. One of the hinge is also tripped but I still have 3 hinges left and I used the hinge closest to the cab. It took me 2 minutes to remove the hinge. It was not attached with any glue. It simply slides out. Undoing the seal on the side is the hardest part and it just slides back in. I don’t understand the liability excuse. There is no reason why they cannot replace the hinge. Now it’s perfect again. I was able to replace the latch as well using the part on the broken one. I got lucky!!!!
-
-
GM-Trucks.com Clubs
-
Black Truck Club
Open Club · 612 members
-
White Truck Club
Open Club · 380 members
-
Canadian Owners Club
Open Club · 282 members
-
Red Truck Club
Open Club · 156 members
-
diesel 3.0
Open Club · 279 members
-
Texas Owner's Group
Open Club · 371 members
-
NorthSky Blue Club
Open Club · 118 members
-
Midwest Owner's Group
Open Club · 212 members
-
2015 Custom Sport Club
Open Club · 5 members
-
GM Snow Plowing Club HD
Closed Club · 14 members
-
-
Popular Contributors
-
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.