Jump to content

E 85 Break Even Point


Recommended Posts

Posted

to those of you running e 85 i am just wondering what your break even point is. What does the price of e 85 have to before you are acually saving money vs just losing mpg. With fuel prices rising i think this is somthing everyone should concider if the price is right. I personally do not run e 85 mostly because I have not figured my break even point but with the high fuel prices i am concidering figuring it out. Right now i am averaging about 18 mpg(2011 1500 crew cab), 99 percent hwy driving everyday with cruise at 60mph. I think this will be fun to see where everyone comes in at.

Posted

All emotions and politic-ing aside the only data you can trust is your own. :thumbs:

 

You need a good average MPG number for E-85 and one without it. In my truck, on my routes, with my driving habits, I will get 11mpg with E85 and 13 or so without. So I've figured my "tipping point" to be 40 or 50 cents. :cool:

Posted

Its somewhere between 65-70 cents for me, but the stations around here maintain a 50 cent price difference; no more, no less. I is not cost effective for me to run it, but I do so anyways to clean out everything once every 3-4 months.

Posted

For my Tahoe it is 50 cents. My truck is between 40 and 50 but havent run enough premium (6.2L) to have spot on analysis.

Posted
what math do i need to do to figure out EXACTLY how much difference i need to make?

 

Just divide the MPG on E85 by the MPG on regular. That gives you a ratio. For example, Nick the Great's numbers give 11/13 or 0.846. Multiply that by the cost of a gallon of regular. Lets say 3 bucks. That gives us the break even price of E85 to be 2.538. That gives a break even price difference of 46.2 cents. Obviously the price difference is not a set number, but actually needs to be a set ratio.

Posted

unleaded price divide by unleaded mpg equals unleaded price per mile

e85 price divide by e85 mpg equals e85 price per mile

 

then you can use those equations to figure your break evan point. For most people it seems that e85 has to be somewhere around 40 50 cents a gallon cheaper. I have not ran a tank of e85 so i dont know my mpg to figure anything yet.

Posted

right now by me gas is 3.14 at my 18 mpg that is .174 cents per mile. e 85 is at 2.69 a difference of .45 cents at this price i would have to get 15.5 mpg with e85 just to break evan

  • 3 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
    • Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
    • I have both but typically use the 4 legged walker (wheels on front, ski's on back).   The four wheeler is starting to be used on "longer" outdoor walks.  The 4 legged walker is particularly helpful in practicing good walking posture.  Both of my knees are at different stages of recovery and I'm trying to not develop poor habits.  I can actually manage with a cane but it's very difficult not to favor one leg over the other.  My PT recommends I continue with my 4 legged walker for a while.  Yesterday was four weeks since my last knee replacement and I'm excited about my progress to date.  It has been a hell of a rough journey so far but it is exciting to witness  systematic and continuous improvement.  I went for years watching the decline of my "mobility".  It seems that everyday now I am alerting my wife to something I can do now that I couldn't a day or two ago!  I encourage anyone facing the prospect of knee replacement to share any concerns with others who have had the surgery.  It isn't an instant fix but rather is a considerable amount of short term pain for long term gain.  Recovery time and pain levels vary for individuals post surgery but the end results are typically very positive and I've never encountered anyone regretting having had the surgery. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...