Jump to content

4.3l Vortec Build Up Questions


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys, I have a 2003 GMC sonoma 4.3L vortec. Its 150 000 km,and Im ready to invest in a build up. I have never done an engine rebuild/upgrade like this before, but I have lots of support and am willing to learn, and mechanically inclined. I am on a tighter budget, Anyways....

 

I talked to comp cams, and they recommended #56-450-8 hydraulic roller camshaft(duration 266/270, lift 0.500/.500) and #850-12 high energy hydraulic roller lifters. I am also looking into new headers(maybe hedman hedders #69590). I have yet to find an intake manifold for the tbi, so I was thinking of getting my stock ported/machined for better flow??

 

Some questions I have, are is it an advantage to get bigger injectors? If so, the only larger injectors I have seen are the ones Al at Wynjammer sells with his s/c kits. Has anyone just bought the injectors only?? And is this any performance advantage after a tune?

 

Also, For a tune, is it best to send in ecu to such companies as PCM4LESS or invest in tuner? I do know some local shops that can tune, but I am unsure on the best software or basically what to do in this department.

 

As I am on budget, I was thinking of leaving stock pistons and everything else... I have no idea on the effect of this, how bad will this be?

 

I am planning on converting to manual transmission over my automotive simply becuase I believe standard is more fun. and perhaps a ford 8.8 rearend(one is available right now for 150 bucks,,,, good deal or??)

 

And finally... am I on the right track? what else can I do for NA power? I actaully am trying to make a decently powered drift truck, yes i actaully drift it. How much of a power gain should I be expecting from these upgrades alone, am I forgetting anything necessary?, and is there any other cheaper sided upgrades i can do i may be forgetting here?

 

 

THANKS SO MUCH!! your advice/comments are greatly appreciated

Posted

its cheaper to do an engine swap...the 4.3 is a fossil of a design and is made to get the truck from point A to point B thats it..putting money into it is not worth it

Posted

ya i could, but so many people do that already. I wanna try something different. just wondering if anyone has upgraded cams before and such, and what kinda hp/torque i should be looking into getting this way..

Posted

I use to have an s10 a few years back. You can build up that 4.3 and get a little over 300 hp. But not on a budget or at least a tight budget. Regardless of whether you use the 4.3 or a v8, the rest of your drivetrain will not hold up to that much power for very long. And lets face it, you aren't looking at having that much power to set the cruise control and never get on it. The best bang for your buck would be to look into finding a donor car that has been totaled and doing an entire powertrain swap. Look at the last gen Z28s and trans ams. They are all over the place and if you keep your eye out you could find a good deal on one and buy it up. This would be the most cost effective approach as well as give you a lot more potential down the road. A stock z28 powertrain in an s10 is very fast.....then you could add a plethora of aftermarket stuff and go even faster.

 

So yes, you can build that 4.3 and get good results, but you will spend more as well as not have as much hp and tq potential. Enjoy it whichever route you choose and make sure to take pictures!!!

Posted

WWW.ls1truck.com

WWW.v8s10.com

Just drop in a newer 4.8 or 5.3 and save yourself a few dollars on the process the 4.3 is a great motor don't get me wrong but it doesn't have enough potential for power to make sense to build.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...