Jump to content

Before And After

sw6416

By sw6416
in Hobbies, Tech & Outdoors

Recommended Posts

sw6416 Enthusiast

sw6416

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Are you going to do anything with the headlights/tailights??

Looks good

 

I have been thinking about that for a while now ...... maybe a VHT treatment for the tails, Alabama is pretty liberal on the tailight law, think its something like 60% of original OEM visibility. Kinda scares me though dont wanna mess them up and burn the original finish up if I have to remove it or dont like it. I also dont know how bad it will effect my back up lights. However I am def gonna do my overhead 3 light above the cab. Any suggestion on the headlights?

SparkySparks Enthusiast

SparkySparks

Posted
Posted

So did you get your rims painted or powder coated and what size tires are those? I am kind of digging the black stock rims.

sw6416 Enthusiast

sw6416

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So did you get your rims painted or powder coated and what size tires are those? I am kind of digging the black stock rims.

 

They are painted with Dupilicolor wheel paint ......... I was very skeptical at first but read tons and tons of reviews and decided to go with it. reason being I bought the truck and the tires were 9/32th so I wanted to get the life out of those tires before I sprang for some LTZ after market black 20"s, because my rims are stock 17"s and really dont resell very well. So I am gonna run the life off this rubber and then ungrade and painting was the much cheaper option. I have had them painted for about 4 months and it still looks like the day I did it. Long answer but yes they are painted 17" stockers on 245/70/17 rubber.

 

wheel.jpg

yukon25008.1 Senior Enthusiast

yukon25008.1

Posted
Posted
Are you going to do anything with the headlights/tailights??

Looks good

 

I have been thinking about that for a while now ...... maybe a VHT treatment for the tails, Alabama is pretty liberal on the tailight law, think its something like 60% of original OEM visibility. Kinda scares me though dont wanna mess them up and burn the original finish up if I have to remove it or dont like it. I also dont know how bad it will effect my back up lights. However I am def gonna do my overhead 3 light above the cab. Any suggestion on the headlights?

 

I took my factory headlights apart and removed the orange,,very easy no cost and it looks great, or buy a smoked set that doesnt harm the lighting, and they will look awesome and get the mathing smoke cablights, im going that route with mine..

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...