Jump to content

A/c Is Annoying Me


Recommended Posts

Posted

my 04's a/c works well, cold as ice but god it has some annoying tid bits with it

 

1) vibrates the whole cab at idle, idk why but it does...not always but mostly when the humidity is high

 

2) kicks like a donkey on the firewall at idle...try explaing that to a date "oh yeah thats just my a/c getting its king kong on"

 

3) the constant rise and fall of power when the clutch unlocks and locks...i drive alot of highway and my god it drives me insane

 

the a/c belt itself is brand new and the a/c itself is really cold in the truck when its on, i assume its normal for all of this?

Posted

when was the last time you cleaned the throttle body on the engine?

 

how many miles are on the truck?

Posted

Holy F, this weeks new complaint..........

 

Dude, the knock noise, when it engages, at the firewall, is a dessicant bag in the receiver/dryer that is being slammed around when the pressure jumps from the system coming on. Repalce the receiver/dryer.

 

Shakes the whole cab?? Are you serious?? I'm not so sure it's even possible but you might want to look at your compressor, to make sure that it isn't falling off the engine, look at your receiver/dryer to make sure that it is solidly mounted and look at your blower motor to make sure something isn't getting into the housing and the fan is kicking it around.

 

If you can notice a severe amount of power difference, while driving down the highway, when your a/c kicks on and off they your 5.3 is tired as a mo'fo or you need to use cruise control more often.

Posted

120k on the ticker....let me elaborate a bit more on the "shaking the cab" i sort of took that a bit far...its more of a sending vibrations through the dash and paneling

 

where is the dryer located? i'm not going to go out and put a bullet in the truck because of these issues, i've lived with them for years but its just like what the hell is this normal?

Posted
120k on the ticker....let me elaborate a bit more on the "shaking the cab" i sort of took that a bit far...its more of a sending vibrations through the dash and paneling

 

where is the dryer located? i'm not going to go out and put a bullet in the truck because of these issues, i've lived with them for years but its just like what the hell is this normal?

It's the big can that is inline in the large a/c line, near the firewall.

Posted

Mine kind of does the same thing, though the vibration really isn't there. The power change is definitely there though. When I'm sitting at a stop in a traffic jam mine kind of gets less than cold. But man, when I am moving (especially if I'm in recirc mode) it gets good and cold. To the point where even in south Texas I have to put a little warm into it. Though D.C. could be south Texas here at the moment...it's 101 currently outside.

Posted

i HATE the power loss with the AC on... very annoying... an when my AC is on, my truck makes a ticking noice from the outside, that i can hear with my window down and its pretty annoying. and i do not drive with the AC on and window for the smartasses who would question

Posted
Holy F, this weeks new complaint..........

 

 

If you can notice a severe amount of power difference, while driving down the highway, when your a/c kicks on and off they your 5.3 is tired as a mo'fo or you need to use cruise control more often.

 

 

haha

 

 

 

both of my 5.3's and my 4.8 all noticeable loose power with the AC on, they always have

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
    • Move further away.   Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time.   Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine?
    • Switch a a 100% synthetic trans fluid, Amsoil works for me.
    • First of all sorry, I know there are a ton of transmission temperature threads...   My truck is a 2025 LZ0 High (10l89 10-speed) High Country with NHT max trailering package. The NHT package is supposed to have "enhanced cooling."   Normally the trans temp sits around 200. It seems like with any real stress it quickly jumps into the 220s (for example climbing a grade unloaded at lower speeds). I haven't towed much with this truck, but I'm concerned if it gets this hot unloaded.    I've tried a few different things to keep the temps down (tow/haul mode, sport mode, low range when that makes sense) and nothing seems to affect it.    I'm curious if others are the same behavior or if anyone has found techniques to keep the temps down. It seems like it just can't handle reduced airflow at lower speeds, even with relatively light loading.    Thanks!      
    • I'm at 105,000 miles on my baby Duramax. No issues yet. I hit 31 mpg's traveling through hilly terrain to a project in Colorado. I will buy another 3.0. I'm not concerned.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...