Jump to content

3" Rc 2wd Lift Worth It?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Is this lift worth 5 big ones? I have 285/60/18 toyo open country at on 18" ultra mako rims. I cranked torsion bars just enough for tires to clear, very close to rubbing. I am looking for a small lift, not a big fan of bl but 1-2" is fine. Is this 3" lift worth it, I have read that it is no more than torsion keys cranked on steroids. Pics would bein helpful although I have looked through countless posts n Google images on this 3" lift, and some look worth it, while others do not.

 

Thanks,

God Bless

Posted

well blackz71 must have a lot of friends with a $#itty attitude like that.... since you are in TX and you dont need 4wd, but you want a lifted truck for looks, i would do RC's 1.25 BL, and their 3" lift. you will not be disappointed.

 

 

If you arent going to give any helpful advice, DONT GIVE ANY.

Posted

Thanks, yea its not 4x4 but I still want it to look pretty when everybody's is muddy lol. I have told myself I do not want to go past 285 tires with this truck and I'm just looking for a little more lift nothing extreme. Just want some input on RC 3" lift that's all, if its worth it or does it actually give u anything over cranking torsion bars.

Posted

Now, Im not completely against lifting 2WD but I know I would not do it to mine, If you want it to look better then get it leveled to match the height of the rear of the truck, or if your dead set on a lift then throw er' high!!!

Posted
well blackz71 must have a lot of friends with a $#itty attitude like that.... since you are in TX and you dont need 4wd, but you want a lifted truck for looks, i would do RC's 1.25 BL, and their 3" lift. you will not be disappointed.

 

 

If you arent going to give any helpful advice, DONT GIVE ANY.

 

 

The OP asked for opinions if the lift was worth it, not "helpful advice". If there's a possibility you may not like someone's opinion, don't read the post. It has nothing to do with a crappy attitude.

 

OP, cranking the bars alone is not the only way to go to lift the front end. They can only crank so far until you ruin your ride quality.

By the price of the kit, I would think you would be better off with a front leveling kit and rear blocks. Much cheaper and you will get the same look, just .5in less.

Posted
Is this lift worth 5 big ones? I have 285/60/18 toyo open country at on 18" ultra mako rims. I cranked torsion bars just enough for tires to clear, very close to rubbing. I am looking for a small lift, not a big fan of bl but 1-2" is fine. Is this 3" lift worth it, I have read that it is no more than torsion keys cranked on steroids. Pics would bein helpful although I have looked through countless posts n Google images on this 3" lift, and some look worth it, while others do not.

 

Thanks,

God Bless

 

Lift spindles are a good way to mildly lift a 2wd. What I would equate to cranked keys on steroids, would be Leveling keys. Those are a waste of time and money, unless you can't get any adjustment out of your factory keys...which it sounds like you did. I'm not a fan of the newer RC stuff, but I don't know much about their products for the older platforms.

Posted

Blackz71. I did ask for opinions, that is why I did not get my panties in a Wade when you gave me yours. Lol not that I wear any by the way.

 

I cranked the bars to level, and my truck came with a 2 1/2" rear block stock. I think ill b going the zone 1.5 to get a little more clearance. Thanks for all input.

 

A local lift shop has tried numerous times to sell me a pro comp 2" level key lift, for 3 bills, but I couldn't see myself doing that.

 

Off topic. Will OEM Ford or Dodge shocks fit my 06' GMC sierra 1500¿

Posted
I would say it's NOT worth it. Lift kits are for 4x4's.

Then how come there's all sorts of companies selling them for 2wd as well?

Posted
I would say it's NOT worth it. Lift kits are for 4x4's.

Then how come there's all sorts of companies selling them for 2wd as well?

 

 

 

thats how i felt about it...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 497 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...