Jump to content

I've Found A Compromise

tanked_darren

By tanked_darren
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

tanked_darren Senior Enthusiast

tanked_darren

Posted
Posted

Well now I get to keep the truck and im getting a gas saver for work.

 

Ok so its a 2001 4 door sunfire very few options if any.

 

Never been driven hard my sister is a very slow driver (thats who I'm getting it from) Best part is it still has plenty of life left (92000kms)

 

 

So now I know the coolant has never been done and either has the transmission filter (since it was acquired with 30000km on it I believe)

 

Anyone around here know about doing a transmission filter on these?

Assuming it is dexron 3 no transmission work has ever been done, i'm gonna just add 6 when I top it.

 

 

Also out of the many forums on the net is there any that any of you recommend for these era J-Body's?

TexasAl Enthusiast

TexasAl

Posted
Posted

That is a good commuter car. Just keep in mind that GM had problems with gasket/coolant compatibility. If you start loosing small amounts of coolant, you will most likely need to change the intake gasket. Fairly simple job that should not cost you more than $200. All they have to do is scrap off the old gasket,and install the new one.

 

Al

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted
Well now I get to keep the truck and im getting a gas saver for work.

 

Ok so its a 2001 4 door sunfire very few options if any.

 

Never been driven hard my sister is a very slow driver (thats who I'm getting it from) Best part is it still has plenty of life left (92000kms)

 

 

So now I know the coolant has never been done and either has the transmission filter (since it was acquired with 30000km on it I believe)

 

Anyone around here know about doing a transmission filter on these?

Assuming it is dexron 3 no transmission work has ever been done, i'm gonna just add 6 when I top it.

 

Also out of the many forums on the net is there any that any of you recommend for these era J-Body's?

I wouldn't mix Dex 3 and 6.

 

Check for head gasket leaks in the driver's side front corner of the head to block area. They're known for it. Other than that, drive it.

 

That is a good commuter car. Just keep in mind that GM had problems with gasket/coolant compatibility. If you start loosing small amounts of coolant, you will most likely need to change the intake gasket. Fairly simple job that should not cost you more than $200. All they have to do is scrap off the old gasket,and install the new one.

 

Al

Intake gasket leaks on a 4 cylinder?? Really?

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted
Dex V1 is fully backwards compatible..

 

http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/2009/05/dexron-vi.html

Because you linked it, and obviously didn't read it all, let me put up a little snippet from this article and it pretty much explains why I would have suggested NOT mixing the fluids. I didn't say it wasn't possible, I just said that I wouldn't, that's all. I also NEVER said that it wasn't backwards compatible. Try and not read into what I said, too awful much. Seems to happen around here, A LOT.

 

"TIP: Simply topping off the fluid is adequate, but a full drain and replacement is preferred, to obtain the full benefit."

dlstewart01 Senior Enthusiast

dlstewart01

Posted
Posted

Thats to obtain the full benefit of the Dexron V1 superior fluid. Mixing the two while will not cause any issues the Dexron 111 will dilute the superior properties of the new fluid. The mixture will be some what better than Dexron 111 but not as good as a complete drain and add of Dexron V1. I thought this was a no brainer with out need for an explination.

 

Oh yeah I have read the Tech Link several times.

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted
Thats to obtain the full benefit of the Dexron V1 superior fluid. Mixing the two while will not cause any issues the Dexron 111 will dilute the superior properties of the new fluid. The mixture will be some what better than Dexron 111 but not as good as a complete drain and add of Dexron V1. I thought this was a no brainer with out need for an explination.

 

Oh yeah I have read the Tech Link several times.

Holy ****, nevermind.

 

:sigh:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • GMC4Zee
      PPE Transmission Pan Install

      By GMC4Zee · Posted

      Is this the pan everyone is talking about PPE Power 128051910 . this can be gotten from JEGS. 
    • Texas Gasser
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By Texas Gasser · Posted

      My truck is a 2024 2500 LT crew cab with the 6.6 gas engine and 10 speed trans.  It has a payload of 3578 lbs.  We pull a 22' Grand Design 17MKE that has dry weight of 5006 lbs. and a gross weight of 6395 lbs.  The trailer weighs about 5800 lbs. when loaded up with all the gear.  I don't fill the water tank for travel as most of our trips are to state parks that are within a day's drive.  Depending on the wind I get anywhere from 7.5 to 9 mpg.  I do use a weight distribution hitch (WDH) and have no problems with sway or being pulled/pushed side to side by 18-wheelers passing by me.  The trailer is about the same length of the truck so that helps a lot.  I say that because we traded in our 33' Grand Design 2670 MK (7800 lbs. loaded with gear) and using the same WDH, it would get pulled side to side by big trucks passing by me. It was not bad, but you needed to stay alert and know when a big truck was pulling up beside you.  I got about 7 to 8 mpg pulling that trailer.  I normally drive about 65 to 67 mph when pulling.  Overall, I love the payload capability of the truck as I doubt I will ever get close to its limit and I love the stability it offers over a half ton truck while pulling a trailer.  I have just over 30000 miles on the truck and have not had any issues.  We live in Texas where it is relatively flat, just windy. 
    • Chuck FB
      Gas Prices

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will say though that the 5.00 a gallon for only one fuel stop while on the Number 1, that privilege of driving from the point of Paso Robles ( where I fueled up before crossing to the coast ) and all the way up ... across the Golden Gate where I stopped and walked on the bridge ( and someone jumped off the bridge opposite the side I was on ... never saw it happen but the tow truck/paramedic told me ) and continued on north back onto No 1 and all the way up to where it connects to 101 and also explored some of the Red Woods although had been through some of that before. The fantastic view of that scenic ocean route was most certainly worth the extra dollars I spent on fuel. Just prior to that I had driven through Death Valley and that was some experience in the middle of July, then spent a couple of days in Yosemite and hiked to the top of Half Dome. The summer of 2007 was very memorable for what I saw and experienced in California.
    • AndrewF
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By AndrewF · Posted

      Really depends on what extent the towing is.  Are you going across the country on highways or to fairly local campgrounds?  If you're just local towing then I wouldn't derate your truck much, just make sure the weight of your trailer and equipment stays below your limit.  Which for my truck is 14500lbs bumper pull.  Yeah it will work hard when you're over 5 figures in weight but who cares if it is just say 50 miles.    In my opinion the main thing with towing campers is wind resistance.  My 3200lb single axle camper tows fairly hard for what it is due to the wind.  But then if I use my truck to tow a family members 8000lb camper it doesn't really feel any different as wind resistance is similar. I've also towed a 5000lb airstream and it barely felt like anything was there.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I think the excitement has run its course. Or, probably need a break from the truck for a few days.   Win some, lose some, again. There was still a coolant weep from the front of the engine. This time it was one of those worm-drive hose clamps on the upper hose connecting to the water neck. There's a reason the factory doesn't use those type of clamps; they suck. The hose is all distorted and flared at the end from someone over-tightening it. The water neck just needed to be cleaned, hose seated, and have a *good* hose clamp put on, if the hose wasn't so mangled.   Thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and try to diagnose the EGR issue. It's likely a failed EGR but before I spent $85 on the part I wanted to make sure ports weren't clogged or the pintle wasn't stuck. It was kind of a bugger to remove with the upper intake installed. Re-install (because I wanted to drive it) proved more difficult.   Per the stack of service paperwork, the EGR has already been replaced 4 times since 1996.   It would reason, then, that the EGR flange on the lower intake manifold has had its share of techs trying to work quickly and maybe one of them seated a bolt slightly cross-threaded at one time. The bolt didn't come out without significant effort and tried as I did, it wouldn't go in without significant effort. And then, the mounting ear on the right side of the EGR (lower intake casting) cracked, and crumbled off. $%&@!!!   I hate everything. Or, at least, I did in that moment. I was pretty calm, considering. This is what older, junky vehicles do. They nickel and dime their owners, piss them off, and things break that shouldn't break because of shoddy design/workmanship, poorly done repairs.   If I want to make it right, I'll need to replace the lower intake manifold and basically re-do everything I spent days doing. At least it should go quicker this time, right?! Looks like a lower intake (used/junk, of course) will run me about $150.   Once I get the new EGR, I'll see if I can bolt it up snug enough to verify proper operation, and if it solves the persistent CEL that sets on decel for EGR flow, I'll know I'm back on the right track. And then I can decide how to proceed.   Also, an idler pulley has given up. It began squeaking in pain on startup. It's clear this truck hasn't been thoroughly driven in a long, long time as things are just letting go and shaking out. I may have given it the beans once or twice to make sure my intake gaskets were doing their job. Flog an old vehicle, expect what it gives in return.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...