Jump to content

4 way headlights

samckitt

Recommended Posts

samckitt Enthusiast

samckitt

Posted
Posted

I did some "fiddling" with this last night & figured out how to do it without spending anything.  I used 2 small pieces of wire & a diode that I had at home.  OK if you were doing this it may cost you a buck for the diode from Radio Shack.  Here is a pic of the temporary setup I made:  

 

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~smckitt/relays.jpg

 

On the fuse box cover it shows which relays are for the high & dim lights.  I also discovered that the negative is what is switched, not the positive.  I located which pin on the relay is the one that is switched, this happens to be pin 85 (I think) on both relays.  So I simply wrapped the wire around that terminal on both of them & put the diode in the middle.  The diode allows current to only go in one direction.  So when the dims are on the current cannot pass to the high relay, but when the high is on the current will pass to the dim relay to energize it & turn them on also.  I did this in about 10 minutes so it is not real pretty or "safe".  I will find what the current is through this diode & decide what size wire & diode is needed.  So now I am thinking if this can be done, then the DRLs & fogs could be done in a similar way.  Hmmmm.....

Scot

1BADHD Enthusiast

1BADHD

Posted
Posted
Well I'll be...........that looks like it may work pretty well. As long as the diode or wire doesn't melt. Maybe figure out a little safer set up and I'll give it a try.
samckitt Enthusiast

samckitt

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I will, that was just my proof of concept.  I am going to measure the current, & from that use a larger diode & wire if necessary.  Also add some heat shrink tubing & maybe some type of connector to ease installation & removal.  Will keep you informed.
woyster_00z71 Enthusiast

woyster_00z71

Posted
Posted

Please do follow up on this.  I am VERY interested in not only the 4 way headlight but also the Fog lamp on with headlights and Fog lamps stay on when hi-beams are activated.  Keep us informed.

 

Thanks for the hard work!

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted

Ok I'm new at this forum thing and posting stuff, here it goes, I was looking at the 4 head lamp conversion thing myself, but it it is that easy then great. If you can keep us posted on how the final job turns out. It is always a good thing to save the cash for the bigger toys.

 

Nick

samckitt Enthusiast

samckitt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I will keep everyone posted on what size wire & diode to use.  I am guess the small wire & diode I uses will work fine.  Afterall the only amount of current used is to energize the relay, not run the lights.  As for the fogs on also.  Do it the same way.  Run a wire from terminal 85 on the high to the terminal that energizes the relay for the fogs.  Not sure which that is yet because there is 5 legs on it, not 4 like the other two.  It will then be setup to run when you turn the switch on from inside & will then be on all the time when the brights are on.  Holly cow, 6 headlights on for bright.  And all for less than $5 & a little time wiring it up.  I may see if I can make some of the wires up at work (Delco Electronics :-)) & sell for what $2 a piece or something.  Will let you know.

Later,

Scot

bandera Enthusiast

bandera

Posted
Posted
Great news Scott (and perfect timing------I just ordered and recieved in the mail TODAY the R & D head light controller)   Do have a question though.   Can you run that wire off of the #85 terminal on the hight beam relay to any kind of relay to activate it (to turn on some other add-on lights)????  ???
samckitt Enthusiast

samckitt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bandera,

I don't see why you couldn't.  Just remember that terminal 85 is a ground not a "hot" (12 volt +), so wire you setup accordingly.

Later,

Scot

samckitt Enthusiast

samckitt

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't know what the part number is on this one.  It is one that I had here at home &  just used it to see if it would work.  When I make it "better" I will tell you what size diode I use or a P/N so you all can find it too.

Scot

nonstop Enthusiast

nonstop

Posted
Posted

Scott any idea what the current is on those relays?

 

I see at radio shack they have a 1.0A and 2.5A diode, just not sure which one is needed.

bandera Enthusiast

bandera

Posted
Posted
Checked out my truck today---VERY CONFUSED!!!!   I opened the fuse box under the hood on the left fender and had a picture of your set up to compare.   Only problem is mine is much different from yours.   I only have three of the larger relays (3614) and four of the smaller ones (8567).   On the label on the lid it list one of the larger relays as "HDLP" which is for the headlamps.  The other two are labeled "IGN1" and "STARTER".  On the label it shows another large relay for "R/R DEFOG" but my truck does not have that.  Also I might note that my truck did not come with factory fog lights.  There is only one relay for lights.  By the way mine is a 2000 K-1500  Z-71.  What year is your truck from which you show the picture?  Mine has fuses in different places than yours and the main fuses along the top part of the picture are different.  I would still like to figure out how to make a relay come on with the HI beams.  Since I had already ordered the R&D headlight controller, I went ahead and installed it today.  Works good.   :eek:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 328 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By newdude · Posted

      This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • newdude
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By newdude · Posted

      2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Coastie05
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Go back to OEM wheels. 
    • newdude
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By newdude · Posted

      Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...