Jump to content

Blacking Out - Vinyl Cl Fence Paint

triplexbullies

Recommended Posts

triplexbullies Enthusiast

triplexbullies

Posted
Posted

A buddy of mine painted his stock Tacoma wheels with vinyl spray paint made for spraying chain link fence. These wheels came on my truck and I don't really want to buy new ones. The truck is a 2003 and the wheels seems almost as old. The fake bead lock screws have a little bit of rust on them. I figure I can't really harm them. I also want to spray the silver molding, billet grill and nerf bars. I figure I'll clean and then hit them all with some 400 grit. For now I'm going to leave the other parts of the grill and the rear bumper.

 

Ideas? Suggestions?

 

 

xterra013.jpg

 

xterra014.jpg

 

xterra015.jpg

herm0016 Enthusiast

herm0016

Posted
Posted

i have seen it with plasti-dip. though, no sanding and they were able to peel it off without harming the under surface also.

 

generally it is good to wait a few days before making comments about how people do not post in your thread. Many people just do not get online every day.

  • 2 weeks later...
triplexbullies Enthusiast

triplexbullies

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Even though no one gave me any suggestions, I'll post my $27 work.. I put the blocks the wrong way on the second side... yeah I know. Then I got my neighbors 3.5t floor jack. I haven't done anything but the wheels yet.

 

DSCN0004.jpg

 

DSCN0006.jpg

 

DSCN0008.jpg

 

DSCN0001.jpg

 

DSCN0009.jpg

old-chevy-dude Senior Enthusiast

old-chevy-dude

Posted
Posted

plasti-dip on wheels is a pretty hot thing right now, I have seen it many times on several forums.. and I guess the stuff just peels off when you don't want it anymore. .

 

 

 

there was even a thread on the BMW forums where some clown plasti-dipped his leasing white M3 to make it look flat black and then used a power washer to remove it when he traded it in..

triplexbullies Enthusiast

triplexbullies

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's been 3.5 weeks now and they still look fine. I should have put a little more paint on the last 3 that I did. I really only spent enough time on the first one. My friend has had his done for about 8 months and he beats his truck. There are some small pin head chips that you can see close up, but I doubt a full street truck will have any problems. I've got more paint. I'll probably repaint them again in the spring. That way I'll be able to fill in any chips I may get and the more paint the better they shine. It seriously looks like a decent powder coat. I've also had no problem just rinsing them off so far. Dirt doesn't seem to stick well. Haven't had any trouble with break dust so far. I'll spray some wheel cleaner on them and see how the paint holds up.

jdubya Enthusiast

jdubya

Posted
Posted
plasti-dip on wheels is a pretty hot thing right now, I have seen it many times on several forums.. and I guess the stuff just peels off when you don't want it anymore. .

 

 

 

there was even a thread on the BMW forums where some clown plasti-dipped his leasing white M3 to make it look flat black and then used a power washer to remove it when he traded it in..

:lol:

 

I am curious on this plasti-dip thing. the last time I used this stuff you had to dip whatever it is that you wanted covered into this stuff. Do they make it in a spray can or something?

herm0016 Enthusiast

herm0016

Posted
Posted

cement blocks for jacking is a no no! i learned that the hard way when one exploded on me.

 

I like the black wheels. looks good!

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted
cement blocks for jacking is a no no! i learned that the hard way when one exploded on me.

 

I like the black wheels. looks good!

 

:thumbs:

 

 

 

 

Please go buy yourself a good jack and some jack stands. The wheels came out good.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • davester
      cam upgrade in CA

      By davester · Posted

      apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • davester
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By davester · Posted

      yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...