Jump to content

Trick To Turning Shift Shaft On Transfer Case?


miscrap

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi. I got the Service 4WD warning on my '05 Tahoe Z71. No lights on the selector. Couldn't get out of 2HI. Had the code read at AAMCO, was C0327. Researching online pointed to the encoder motor sensor. Found instructions with pictures online about how to replace it. It was going great, I made the mistake of telling myself it was too easy. BAM! When I went to put the encoder motor with the new sensor back on, the notch on the shaft didn't match up with the gear on the motor (which I had marked with a Sharpie, and was where it was when I took it off). In my original research, I had read that this might happen, and the "cure" was to turn the shift shaft on the transfer case with a crescent wrench to match the gear . Several problems... there are no flats on the shaft, just the notch. I'm afraid of damaging the spline. No room to turn the wrench (unless I use a really short crescent wrench). I can turn it a short way, then it springs back. The notch on the shaft is currently pointing straight down. The notch on the gear is more like at 11 o'clock. It was suggested to me to put the trans in neutral and jack up the rear tires. Didn't help. The shaft seems hard to turn and I'm afraid to force it. Does it only turn one way? I don't want to force it the wrong way.

Right now the truck is up on ramps with no drive shaft and no encoder motor. This is my daily driver. Please help so I can get back on the road.

 

I found this video on youtube. The guy was cruising along on this repair (without taking off the driveshaft) then at the 7:30 mark a black screen goes on saying they ran into a problem. Same problem I had. Next scene they have it turned, never said how they did it.

 

 

Posted

use pliers with some clamping force---vise grips ..

 

dont crush it but get firm and turn it ,,,

 

you are over coming the detent ball and the shift itself ....rotate the driveshaft slightly as you are turning it to the next detent ..

 

once it goes ,you'll say " omg that was easy" lol

Posted

Oh, and another question... once I get this put back together, and assuming it solves the problem, will the Service4WD light go out and the code go away, or am I going to have to take it somewhere to get the thing reset?

Posted

I went out and bought the shortest vice grip I could find, a 5 incher. It gives me the clearance I need to turn the shaft. However, the notch is pointing straight down (6 o'clock position) and I need to get to around 11 o'clock. I can turn it to about 9 o'clock, but as soon as I take the vice grip off it snaps back to 6 o'clock. I can't get it to go past 9, even turning the rear driveshaft. Any ideas/suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

2011-10-07130747.jpg

 

2011-10-07130250.jpg

Posted

without being there i cant help ya much more ,sry bud

 

on a manual t case ,,4wd is all the way counter clock wise looking straight at the shaft

 

then 2wd ,neutral and the 4lo,

 

if you replaced the sensor and put it back together properly by lining up the gears with a marker ,,,it should fall back on the shaft

 

idk,

 

yes it will clear itself eventually

 

and the light will go out right away

Posted
without being there i cant help ya much more ,sry bud

 

on a manual t case ,,4wd is all the way counter clock wise looking straight at the shaft

 

then 2wd ,neutral and the 4lo,

 

if you replaced the sensor and put it back together properly by lining up the gears with a marker ,,,it should fall back on the shaft

 

idk,

 

yes it will clear itself eventually

 

and the light will go out right away

 

 

thanks, govtech. i appreciate the help. i was thinking... what if i plug the motor in and push the selector buttons. won't that move the gear in the motor? i can keep trying until it's in the same position as the shaft.

Posted

Mike, I just did a similar job on my 2003 Sierra but was lucky in that I was able to put the transfer case in neutral before I started taking the encoder off. You mentioned that the shaft keeps on returning to its position when you turned it with the visegrips. Something to try is to make sure the transmission is in neutral and then try to turn the rear drive shaft with your hand at the same time to help shift the transfer case. That's my 5 cents worth.

 

Good luck and hope this works.

 

Pierre

Posted
Mike, I just did a similar job on my 2003 Sierra but was lucky in that I was able to put the transfer case in neutral before I started taking the encoder off. You mentioned that the shaft keeps on returning to its position when you turned it with the visegrips. Something to try is to make sure the transmission is in neutral and then try to turn the rear drive shaft with your hand at the same time to help shift the transfer case. That's my 5 cents worth.

 

Good luck and hope this works.

 

Pierre

 

 

Thanks, Pierre. I've tried doing that the best I could by myself. Maybe I'll get a helper to turn the drive shaft a little faster.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
    • Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer.   The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight.   Most noticeable at slow speeds.    Any insight is appreciated. 
    • We try to make cruise the coast. It’s where our favorite casino is. I only want to spectate. Never took a car. Always had one to take. I belonged to a club once. Even when I used to drag raced. It was during test and tune. Probably because I’m not a night owl, party person. 
    • We had a pretty big cars and coffee in Indy this past weekend.  Pretty much anything and everything was there.  
    • Good looking Olds, and TRX!   I haven't been into car shows either. I'm probably not a convert but I did push myself this year to attend a few select events to challenge some assumptions and try to experience car-based social clubs in a different way. I joined up with the local Hagerty group for some cars/coffee events, group drives. A month ago I showed my '94 Camaro I rescued last fall at Radwood. Had a good time, but, there was some sitting around with the car and that's the part of shows I don't enjoy as much. I prefer to be a spectator, walk the show, grab a burger, go home.   Radwood was the only era-limited event, but where it had strict model year limitations, it made it up in variety. Having Jason Camissa there was also a hoot.   Where I see old 50's car shows, doo-wop and winga dinga music stuff fading out, same with "only" vintage muscle clubs, it seems to be the activity-based clubs/events which are gaining strong popularity. Places where all cars and interests come together.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...