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What Size Brakes On The Rear?

Rogue Leader

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Rogue Leader Enthusiast

Rogue Leader

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Waiting to see if it's a 4wd,if it is I have pics that my help him.I've had the front hubs apart to replace the sensors and a rotor...

 

Yes it is 4WD

 

Thanks for the help!

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grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

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Waiting to see if it's a 4wd,if it is I have pics that my help him.I've had the front hubs apart to replace the sensors and a rotor...

 

Yes it is 4WD

 

Thanks for the help!

 

 

 

I'll dig up my pics... :lol:

grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

Posted
Posted
Waiting to see if it's a 4wd,if it is I have pics that my help him.I've had the front hubs apart to replace the sensors and a rotor...

 

Yes it is 4WD

 

Thanks for the help!

 

 

 

I'll dig up my pics... :lol:

 

 

Rather than post a bunch of pics here I made a little album at Photobucket.The axle nut is 36mm & the sensor is a 6mm allen(IIRC on both).Hopefully this will help some.......

95 Burb Axle & Sensor

Rogue Leader Enthusiast

Rogue Leader

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Rather than post a bunch of pics here I made a little album at Photobucket.The axle nut is 36mm & the sensor is a 6mm allen(IIRC on both).Hopefully this will help some.......

95 Burb Axle & Sensor

 

Thanks for the pics.

 

I went ahead and removed the front wheels to take a peek. What I found was that the hubs are shot anyway so I am gonna order new hubs tonight with the sensors in them. The wheel (when attached) clunked around when I moved it back and forth and the movement was very visibly coming from the hub.

 

I'd assume I should order new studs as well. The good news at least is the brakes look like they were recently changed and are in great shape, albeit quite rusty.

 

Ohh and my radiator started leaking while I was doing this, FML lol

grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

Posted
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That's a bummer on the hubs cuz they ain't cheap :P I had to replace one also...rt. side.I bought a Timken hub and don't remember if the studs were in it already,memory fail :lol: The bad hubs could be why it's pulling & why the ABS is acting up :lol:

 

 

And for the radiator...when it rains it pours :P

Rogue Leader Enthusiast

Rogue Leader

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That's a bummer on the hubs cuz they ain't cheap :P I had to replace one also...rt. side.I bought a Timken hub and don't remember if the studs were in it already,memory fail :lol: The bad hubs could be why it's pulling & why the ABS is acting up :lol:

 

 

And for the radiator...when it rains it pours :P

 

Ordered both hubs from Rockauto got Timkens they were $162 each, the radiator was another $150. I also ordered 16 new studs as the hubs don't seem to come with them. I bought this truck knowing it was a project... just seems that my original assessment was a bit lower than it has been coming out to!

 

Still need 4 new shocks/struts, and possibly an oil pump as well (Oil pressure sits at about 2-3 after the truck has been driven a while, but under load it seems to be at normal levels). Also there is a fuel leak from the lines off the fuel pump. The place I got it from put a brand new tank in for me but neglected to change those, so I have to drop it again myself and change them.

 

Don't even get me started on the interior LOL.

grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

Posted
Posted
That's a bummer on the hubs cuz they ain't cheap :P I had to replace one also...rt. side.I bought a Timken hub and don't remember if the studs were in it already,memory fail :P The bad hubs could be why it's pulling & why the ABS is acting up :lol:

 

 

And for the radiator...when it rains it pours :P

 

Ordered both hubs from Rockauto got Timkens they were $162 each, the radiator was another $150. I also ordered 16 new studs as the hubs don't seem to come with them. I bought this truck knowing it was a project... just seems that my original assessment was a bit lower than it has been coming out to!

 

Still need 4 new shocks/struts, and possibly an oil pump as well (Oil pressure sits at about 2-3 after the truck has been driven a while, but under load it seems to be at normal levels). Also there is a fuel leak from the lines off the fuel pump. The place I got it from put a brand new tank in for me but neglected to change those, so I have to drop it again myself and change them.

 

Don't even get me started on the interior LOL.

 

 

 

That's a very good price on the Timkens :lol: Before replacing the oil pump make sure the oil pressure is actually that low these gauges are sometimes not that accurate. A lot of mechanics recommend lifting the bed to get to the fuel tank,they say it's easier to unbolt it and lift one side up to access it.Since I have a Burb I had to drop mine to put a new pump in three years ago....not fun.Interior? LMC Truck is your friend :lol:

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

Loose hub bearings will cause unwanted abs activation, good find.

 

I always drop the fuel tank instead of lifting the box but I always have a hoist too so..... :lol:

Most likely needs a fuel tank sending unit. Pretty common.

 

But, if the engine is showing low oil pressure you'd better get that checked first. Could just be a faulty sending unit but a mechanical gauge will show you the truth.

 

Older project trucks can be fun if you have the time, money and patients. :lol:

Rogue Leader Enthusiast

Rogue Leader

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That's a very good price on the Timkens thumb.gif Before replacing the oil pump make sure the oil pressure is actually that low these gauges are sometimes not that accurate. A lot of mechanics recommend lifting the bed to get to the fuel tank,they say it's easier to unbolt it and lift one side up to access it.Since I have a Burb I had to drop mine to put a new pump in three years ago....not fun.Interior? LMC Truck is your friend smile.gif

 

Ya rockauto is real good pricewise. I believe I have a mechanical gauge at home to test out the oil pressure. Lifting the bed would probably be more work for me I don't have a way to really lift it up, plus its pretty rusty down there I would imagine all those nuts/bolts aren't gonna come out so easy.

 

Loose hub bearings will cause unwanted abs activation, good find.

 

I always drop the fuel tank instead of lifting the box but I always have a hoist too so..... :lol:

Most likely needs a fuel tank sending unit. Pretty common.

 

But, if the engine is showing low oil pressure you'd better get that checked first. Could just be a faulty sending unit but a mechanical gauge will show you the truth.

 

Older project trucks can be fun if you have the time, money and patients. :lol:

 

The leak is actually coming from one of the lines off the fuel pump at a metal fitting by the frame rail that attaches to the rubber line that goes to the front of the truck. I can see it, but unfortunately to get to the other end of the line I have to drop the tank :P If I get it like 6-8 inches down it will probably be enough to get to the lines, don't even need it all the way out.

 

As for the oil pressure its quite confusing. I can let the truck run all day long in my driveway and it will hold good pressure, and when driving it will hold within spec 20 at 2krpms. Its only after driving for about 15 - 20 min that when stopped at a light it will drop to like 0-2. If I pop it into neutral and rev it slightly it goes back up to like 5 and stays there at idle (in spec). The engine purrs and runs smoothly all the time. I guess I need to try and find that mechanical gauge I may have somewhere but I'm hoping for the best. Maybe I will get a sender anyway for the heck of it.

 

Projects are cool I just didn't expect it to be this much of a project, especially with the winter fast approaching.

grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

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I'm thinking about adding aftermarket gauges to my Burb,when I do I'm going to make sure the oil pressure gauge is mechanical and hopefully be able to install a ''T'' to the existing sending unit to connect the tube to.Not sure if it can be done but the OEM sending unit has to screw in somehow.

 

BTW,I hope you have a torque wrench.Very important to torque all the fasteners at the wheel hub,knuckle etc.

Rogue Leader Enthusiast

Rogue Leader

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I'm thinking about adding aftermarket gauges to my Burb,when I do I'm going to make sure the oil pressure gauge is mechanical and hopefully be able to install a ''T'' to the existing sending unit to connect the tube to.Not sure if it can be done but the OEM sending unit has to screw in somehow.

 

BTW,I hope you have a torque wrench.Very important to torque all the fasteners at the wheel hub,knuckle etc.

 

Yes I have a torque wrench. As for the pressure sender, yes it is screw in, so I'm sure theres some sort of T-fitting you could get for it. Plus if you disconnected it you'd probably get an SES light.

 

Thinking more about my issue I don't think its the pump, as if the pump was bad then pressure would be bad all the time, if the sender didn't work, same deal. I feel like more than likely my engine is on its way out :nonod:

Rogue Leader Enthusiast

Rogue Leader

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So to update my situation. I replaced the passenger side hub, it was a bit of a fight but I got it together, in and working. Then I went to the drivers side and discovered why the previous owner never fixed it. 3 of the 4 bolts holding the hub in the truck are rounded off! It was after 3 pm at that point so no time to fix, I just put it back together and hopefully I can find a way to get them out next week. UGH.

grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

Posted
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Glad you got the right side done and working :lol: The previous owner must've been an idiot....I think I'd break out a good pair of Vice Grips.Maybe shoot some PB Blaster on the bolts first :dunno:

Rogue Leader Enthusiast

Rogue Leader

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Glad you got the right side done and working :lol: The previous owner must've been an idiot....I think I'd break out a good pair of Vice Grips.Maybe shoot some PB Blaster on the bolts first :dunno:

 

I've been soaking the whole front end in PB for the past week, to loosten the bolts I had to put on a breaker bar and use a 4 foot pipe on it (on the right side). I also had my torch out there with me as well. The left side a Visegrip won't be enough as I won't be able to get enough leverage. I wish I could show you a picture but the whole thing is buried in rust. Your stuff from the pics you posted looks brand new compared to mine.

 

A friend of mine has these impact sockets that have claws in them specifically for bolts like this. I think that would be the only way OR getting the truck up on a lift and drilling them out, which sucks even worse.

grampadirt Senior Enthusiast

grampadirt

Posted
Posted
Glad you got the right side done and working :lol: The previous owner must've been an idiot....I think I'd break out a good pair of Vice Grips.Maybe shoot some PB Blaster on the bolts first :dunno:

 

I've been soaking the whole front end in PB for the past week, to loosten the bolts I had to put on a breaker bar and use a 4 foot pipe on it (on the right side). I also had my torch out there with me as well. The left side a Visegrip won't be enough as I won't be able to get enough leverage. I wish I could show you a picture but the whole thing is buried in rust. Your stuff from the pics you posted looks brand new compared to mine.

 

A friend of mine has these impact sockets that have claws in them specifically for bolts like this. I think that would be the only way OR getting the truck up on a lift and drilling them out, which sucks even worse.

 

 

Let's hope those work.

 

I suppose I'm lucky living in SoCal...little or no rust.This might be a stretch but as a last resort what about cutting the bolt heads off with a die grinder just to get the hub off,then get a replacement at wrecking yard :lol: like I said,a stretch.

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