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z71MudDog

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z71MudDog Enthusiast

z71MudDog

Posted
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hi im new to the site so if the thread is in the improper place all apologies..

 

anyways i have a 1995 chevrolet z71 4wd c/k1500

 

i just bought it so im not familiar with it's specifications yet.

 

here's the problem.it has the 4l60e(16 bolt fluid pan)or the 4l80e(17 bolt fluid pan) automatic transmission.

it doesnt have 1st gear.only 2nd and 3rd and i think O/D and the cruise control still work's..but i drove it one morning when it was really cold and it did have 1st but as it warmed up it lost it again..

i have to shift it maually and it suck's ALOT of gas.i think worse than my '84 k5....

i was thinking maybe the shift solenoid or the speed sensor(speed sensor because the odometer say's a slight incorrect speed while driving).but i want to make sure what the problem is before i go and replace any unnecessary part(s)...

z71MudDog Enthusiast

z71MudDog

Posted
  • Author
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Thanks for the welcome..

 

It has approximately 158,500 miles on it. I don't think the filter has ever benn changed

wavery Enthusiast

wavery

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the welcome..

 

It has approximately 158,500 miles on it. I don't think the filter has ever benn changed

 

:eek: Now, that right there could be a huge problem. 17 years and 158K with the original fluid = trashed trans in most case.

 

Having said that, the 1st thing that you want to do is removed the trans pan and post a pic of the pan after you dump the fluid out. Chances are, the fluid will be black (it should be red).

 

You can either install a new pan with a plug or install a plug in that pan (if it's not rusty).

 

Pull out the filter and dig out the seal (it may be hard to get out). Install a new filter and new seal.

 

Reinstall the pan and fill it with regular ATF (not synthetic yet). It should take about 4qts. Pull the top trans cooler line off of the radiator and put a 3' piece of clear plastic hose on it. Get yourself a 2 liter clear soda bottle or something similar and mark a 1qt level on the outside of the bottle. Have a friend hold the plastic line in the bottle.

 

Now, go start the engine and let it idle and dirty trans fluid from the torque converter will pump into the bottle. Have your friend tell you when the level in the bottle reaches the 1qt line (approx 10 seconds). Shut off the engine, pour 1 qt of new ATF in the trans, empty the old fluid out of the bottle into a larger container.

 

Repeat the above process until the fluid coming out of the plastic hose is about the same color as the new fluid. This will take about 5-6 additional qts.

 

Put the cooler line back on the radiator, start the engine and check the fluid level. If the level is below the "ADD" line, add fluid to that point only.... no more (cold). Drive the vehicle for a few hundred miles. If your problem goes away, the valve body was just gummed up and you may have no more problems. If it doesn't go away, take it to a trans shop and have them check it out. It could be a cable adjustment. If it isn't, it's time for a rebuild.

 

If the problem does go away, I would recommend doing the above procedure again in about 5K miles You can leave the filter seal in and replace the filter). Normally, I would recommend using synthetic ATF on that change but I don't think it is worth the $ on a truck with that many miles and a questionable trans (synth ATF is about 3-4X the price of reg ATF x 10qts). If the trans has never been serviced, it probably won't last much longer anyway. If you plan on towing, you should go with synthetic.

z71MudDog Enthusiast

z71MudDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i checked the fluid when i bought it(month and a half ago)it was beautiful red and smelled great.i will try an change the filter anyways an see what effect that has on it

wavery Enthusiast

wavery

Posted
Posted

i checked the fluid when i bought it(month and a half ago)it was beautiful red and smelled great.i will try an change the filter anyways an see what effect that has on it

 

Why did you think that it hadn't been serviced?

 

forget my (rather lengthy) previous post.

 

Take it in and get the trans cables checked. :rolleyes: It could be something simple.

dlewis1111 Senior Enthusiast

dlewis1111

Posted
Posted

i checked the fluid when i bought it(month and a half ago)it was beautiful red and smelled great.i will try an change the filter anyways an see what effect that has on it

 

 

Assume that this was not done unless you can see the receipt showing so. The odds are that the fluid was "exchanged" with new stuff on one of those machines and the original filter is still there.

 

What do you mean exactly when you say that you have to shift it manually?

sonjaab Senior Enthusiast

sonjaab

Posted
Posted

Does the speedo/odo still work?

 

If not check the fuses in the fuse box on the side of the dash.

Certain year gmt-400s have a speedo/odo fuse.

If its popped the tranny won't shift and the speedo/odo won't work.

z71MudDog Enthusiast

z71MudDog

Posted
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ya the speedo does work but inaccurately.. when i say i have to manually shift i mean i have to put it in 2nd because it doesnt have 1st.i have to shift to 3rd when the rpm's get high enough like a manual transmission

  • 2 weeks later...
wavery Enthusiast

wavery

Posted
Posted

If the vehicle's in good shape (other than the trans), I would put a GM rebuilt in it. (I've heard that it comes with the converter).

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

there are no cables except the shift cable ,,

 

starting off in 2nd manual on a 4l60 still wants to start off in 1st,..

 

a 4l80 does start off in second when manual 2nd is selected as i remember..

 

your trans needs to be first taken in to a guy who has a scanner and verify or deny what gear it starts out in ,its fully electric,,and a DTC is usually beside a concern,,

 

never shitcan a transmission untill due diligence is done ,if red oil is present ,,baby steps plse ,

 

you have a square pan on the trans and is a 60 ,and

 

are there some k1 trucks with a 4l80 ?? they are rare i think,i may have come across them before ..??

 

get it diag'd and then the question of wether its worth it for repair is next for you Joey

 

 

and yes a SRTA comes with a torque converter (for Wavery) and an awesome 3yr warranty

jblakeney Senior Enthusiast

jblakeney

Posted
Posted

I have ran across a 1/2 ton with a 4l80e before. One and no more just that one.

 

Nice and pretty red fluid means somebody has flushed the system. Could just be nothing more than a stuck valve or bad shift solenoid. Then it could be toast.......

 

If the truck had 153k on the clock and the pan had never been off the fluid would look brown as it would have a good bit of clutch material in the fluid and probably be burned somewhat.

 

I agree you need a scan tool hooked up so you can see what get it is in. And if your not getting first.

 

As far as shifting 4l60e can start in 2nd if commanded, with the shift lever. But after you have the truck moving you should be able to go straight to OD and it should make the change to 3rd and then to 4th. You should not have to continue moving the shifter around getting gears.

 

Govtech4 is right as far as I remember. 4L80's when you pull into 2nd gear start in first then shift to second.

 

If it is toast, you would be surprised what you can get a 4L60e built for vs buying a reman unit. At least in my neck of the woods.

 

Jbo

z71MudDog Enthusiast

z71MudDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i was kinda bummed cause the only scanners available for '95's are the ones that beep without screens..no-one here think's it could be a shift solenoid or something simple like that?

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