Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I only wish I was getting close to that mileage. I just got 11.8 mpg on my last tank....maybe a tune would yield better mpg?

Posted

which tuner did you put on to raise MPH to 16.5? I am at around 15.5, but I have to drive like paw-paw to get it.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I only wish I was getting close to that mileage. I just got 11.8 mpg on my last tank....maybe a tune would yield better mpg?

A good custom dyno/road tune using a wideband O2 sensor and hp tuners will yield far better results than any programmer you can buy or any mailorder tune you get (unless you go to the dyno after you get the mailorder tune, send the results to the tuner and have them edit the tune , then repeat a couple times to get it right for your truck). This route will end up costing a lot more as you have to go to the dyno to get the hard data for your truck after the tuner makes changes - if you don't, you are just letting the tuner guess on values to change, and by doing this they have to be very conservative as they don't want to be blowing up anyone's motor. A good dyno tune will run anywhere from $250 to $500 depending on the shop and the number of mods to your truck.

 

I have my tune optimized exactly for my truck, with the mods I have, and for 93 octane gas. So I can run more timing than stock in all conditions, which helps for a large part of the part throttle cruising mpg gain.

 

 

which tuner did you put on to raise MPH to 16.5? I am at around 15.5, but I have to drive like paw-paw to get it.

 

I assume you mean mpg, not mph. Hp tuners, way better than any handheld. Don't get me wrong though, if I drive the truck hard, I will be in the high 15's for the tank. Stop and go, and reving above 2000rpms or so just kills gas mileage on the truck.

Edited by stl_ls1gto
Posted (edited)

which tuner did you put on to raise MPH to 16.5? I am at around 15.5, but I have to drive like paw-paw to get it.

 

resized_COPY_boat_truck_side.jpg

 

NICE PACKAGE!

Edited by gonzoid
Posted (edited)

So for anyone who has not yet had a chance to run against a Ford 6.2 Raptor here are the details. My friend just recently purchased a 2012 Raptor and after he ran a tank of gas through it, it was time to run the 6.2 NHT against the Raptor 6.2 Now I do have a K&N intake and a Magnaflow muffler; however, we all know the gains are minimal and more for the beefy sound. The Raptor was completely stock and a capable driver at the wheel. There was also a Mustang GT that joined the fun, mods unknown, year what looked to be 2010+. So, all three raced from stop light to stop light at three different lights, all with the same outcome. All three cars roasted tires at the start and there was no question my 6.2 NHT got them both all three times. I was in automatic, not the manual shift mode with the traction control off, same with the Raptor. All three races I got the Raptor and GT by a full truck length. The Raptor and GT were side by side. I shot out from a dig with the 3:73 gears and didn’t look back. It was a fun experience because the Raptor was the only truck I have yet to run against. The only truck to pulled on me so far have been a dodge SRT 10 (Obviously haha) and a really quick Lighting that had bells and whistles. I have a feeling after a BB tune the lighting will be closer; however, the SRT 10 is a BAD TRUCK. Just thought I would share will you guys. Later.

Edited by DonnyStevens
  • Like 2
Posted

Still breaking in my '12 Sierra ec NHT so I haven't given it all yet, but does the traction control on/off make any difference in acceleration? Obviously tire spin will slow you down but does the traction control limit the power?

Posted

dozens of kill storys yet still no video,someday someone is bound to be armed with a smart phone and not affraid to use it.

Posted

dozens of kill storys yet still no video,someday someone is bound to be armed with a smart phone and not affraid to use it.

 

Defiantly not afraid to use my smart phone, but didn't have a person riding shotgun to record for me. Something tells me racing from stop light to stop light while using an iPhone is probably not the best idea.

 

Still breaking in my '12 Sierra ec NHT so I haven't given it all yet, but does the traction control on/off make any difference in acceleration? Obviously tire spin will slow you down but does the traction control limit the power?

 

? Not an expert by any means but I prefer it off.
Posted

So for anyone who has not yet had a chance to run against a Ford 6.2 Raptor here are the details. My friend just recently purchased a 2012 Raptor and after he ran a tank of gas through it, it was time to run the 6.2 NHT against the Raptor 6.2 Now I do have a K&N intake and a Magnaflow muffler; however, we all know the gains are minimal and more for the beefy sound. The Raptor was completely stock and a capable driver at the wheel. There was also a Mustang GT that joined the fun, mods unknown, year what looked to be 2010+. So, all three raced from stop light to stop light at three different lights, all with the same outcome. All three cars roasted tires at the start and there was no question my 6.2 NHT got them both all three times. I was in automatic, not the manual shift mode with the traction control off, same with the Raptor. All three races I got the Raptor and GT by a full truck length. The Raptor and GT were side by side. I shot out from a dig with the 3:73 gears and didn’t look back. It was a fun experience because the Raptor was the only truck I have yet to run against. The only truck to pulled on me so far have been a dodge SRT 10 (Obviously haha) and a really quick Lighting that had bells and whistles. I have a feeling after a BB tune the lighting will be closer; however, the SRT 10 is a BAD TRUCK. Just thought I would share will you guys. Later.

 

Your stock 5300lb 403hp truck beat a 3500lb 315hp car? WoW, good kill that car should run about .7 seconds quicker than your truck in a 1/4 mile.

Posted

So for anyone who has not yet had a chance to run against a Ford 6.2 Raptor here are the details. My friend just recently purchased a 2012 Raptor and after he ran a tank of gas through it, it was time to run the 6.2 NHT against the Raptor 6.2 Now I do have a K&N intake and a Magnaflow muffler; however, we all know the gains are minimal and more for the beefy sound. The Raptor was completely stock and a capable driver at the wheel. There was also a Mustang GT that joined the fun, mods unknown, year what looked to be 2010+. So, all three raced from stop light to stop light at three different lights, all with the same outcome. All three cars roasted tires at the start and there was no question my 6.2 NHT got them both all three times. I was in automatic, not the manual shift mode with the traction control off, same with the Raptor. All three races I got the Raptor and GT by a full truck length. The Raptor and GT were side by side. I shot out from a dig with the 3:73 gears and didn’t look back. It was a fun experience because the Raptor was the only truck I have yet to run against. The only truck to pulled on me so far have been a dodge SRT 10 (Obviously haha) and a really quick Lighting that had bells and whistles. I have a feeling after a BB tune the lighting will be closer; however, the SRT 10 is a BAD TRUCK. Just thought I would share will you guys. Later.

 

Your stock 5300lb 403hp truck beat a 3500lb 315hp car? WoW, good kill that car should run about .7 seconds quicker than your truck in a 1/4 mile.

 

Yeah I am no expert or experienced racer by any means so must have been the driver. I still will take anyway hahaha
Posted

Found this on you tube a 6.2 vs ecoboost

 

 

 

 

the eco boost didnt build boost at launch,had he it would have been a little tougher

Posted

I don't think so lol the 6.2l was pulling ahead the whole time. No way the eco has any kind of a chance :driving:

Posted (edited)

Not many options other than the Max Trailering Pack.

 

The most important one. looks good :thumbs:

Edited by EX-F150 owner

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 5,823 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!     
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...