Battery Drain Issue! Please help!!

[Wires]

Yes dude I know there are two fuse boxes! How does it sound like I am in over my head??? I just replaced the ignition switch in about 25 mins!!! Im asking questions so I can pin-point a problem. Im not looking for smart ass answers

 

For those who would like to help:

 

The light is not flashing, it is on solid. It remains solid with the key in and out and with the truck running. Truck starts fine and drives fine but if i leave the truck for a day the battery is dead.

 

 

Sounds like if you post responses like you're an a$$, you won't get any responses.

 

Pull all the f**king fuses until the draw goes away. There, smart enough answer for you? Makes more sense that randoming swapping parts asking strangers on the other side of a screen to troubleshoot your truck for you.

 

So yeh, I'd agree with the other poster, your over your head.....

[tesnoboy]

Yes dude I know there are two fuse boxes! How does it sound like I am in over my head??? I just replaced the ignition switch in about 25 mins!!! Im asking questions so I can pin-point a problem. Im not looking for smart ass answers

 

For those who would like to help:

 

The light is not flashing, it is on solid. It remains solid with the key in and out and with the truck running. Truck starts fine and drives fine but if i leave the truck for a day the battery is dead.

 

Hey bud don't be a wise ass with me. You're answers are incomplete and don't sound like you are following linear troubleshooting procedures. So good luck speedy!

[sevewparadise]

OK I've narrowed the drain down to two fuses. The IPC fuse and the Radio Fuse. I still have to try disconnecting the radio and re-testing the draw. My instrument panel is working fine but every now and again with the truck off and key out the gear indicator leds light up solid green?? Anyone think this is a BCM issue??

[sevewparadise]

Anyone??

 

Ive unplugged the cluster and the radio from the dash and with the fuses in the draw is gone. Does this say the radio and cluster are bad?

[oppirs]

Anyone??

 

Ive unplugged the cluster and the radio from the dash and with the fuses in the draw is gone. Does this say the radio and cluster are bad?

 

 

Yup! Radio. Had 2 GMC trucks kiss their OnStar goodbye! My 2002 being one of them. Only one woman I know demands onStar so if she lets her truck sit I showed her which fuse to remove. The draw I've seen in the circuit has been around 2.3 amps.

[Wolfmanjohn]

Amazing how the system designed to get you out of an emergency situation can fail and put you right into one, huh?

[imcgyver]

Had the same problem and it was the factory radio, it finally went out pulled the fuses and no more battery drain.

[Butler]

Not meaning to Hi-jack this post, but seeing there hasn't been any activity on it in a while and after searching posts on this topic, this seems to be very close to the exact same problem I am facing right now.

 

My truck is a 2004 GMC 2500 WT w/6.0L. I checked for draw through negative battery cable and got a similar reading of 1.26 amps average. I pulled every fuse and relay (and let me tell you that it takes a while when you do it by yourself and have to check each one individually!!!) and narrowed my readings to the following (listed as apparent current draw after fuse removed and left out):

 

Starting current draw - 1.26 amps

remove radio fuse - 0.58 amps (radio appears to draw 0.68 amps)

remove IPC/DIC fuse - 0.13 amps (0.45 amp draw)

remove TBC Batt fuse - 0.07 amps (0.06 amp draw)

remove Stud #2 fuse (large 30amp) - 0.04 amps (0.03 amp draw)

At this point there was still a 0.04 amp draw that I could not pinpoint with any fuse or relay in either fuseblock.

 

So, what does this tell me? I scanned for DTC's (before disconnecting battery with help from booster pack) and only got a low voltage code which was expected. Are any or all of these abnormal? I'm thinking some maybe ok, but the radio and cluster seem a bit high to me??

[dewfpo]

Not meaning to Hi-jack this post, but seeing there hasn't been any activity on it in a while and after searching posts on this topic, this seems to be very close to the exact same problem I am facing right now.

 

My truck is a 2004 GMC 2500 WT w/6.0L. I checked for draw through negative battery cable and got a similar reading of 1.26 amps average. I pulled every fuse and relay (and let me tell you that it takes a while when you do it by yourself and have to check each one individually!!!) and narrowed my readings to the following (listed as apparent current draw after fuse removed and left out):

 

Starting current draw - 1.26 amps

remove radio fuse - 0.58 amps (radio appears to draw 0.68 amps)

remove IPC/DIC fuse - 0.13 amps (0.45 amp draw)

remove TBC Batt fuse - 0.07 amps (0.06 amp draw)

remove Stud #2 fuse (large 30amp) - 0.04 amps (0.03 amp draw)

At this point there was still a 0.04 amp draw that I could not pinpoint with any fuse or relay in either fuseblock.

 

So, what does this tell me? I scanned for DTC's (before disconnecting battery with help from booster pack) and only got a low voltage code which was expected. Are any or all of these abnormal? I'm thinking some maybe ok, but the radio and cluster seem a bit high to me??

 

 

O.58/0.68 amp load for the radio is way to much. With the engine off you should only be seeing loads in the mA range.

 

DEWFPO

[[email protected]]

Just an FYI - to add to this Thread..

2005 Silverado 2500HD, Crew Cab

New Interstate AGM battery. Left sitting idle for more than 14-18 hours, the battery would be too low to start the engine.

Measured a 4.1 amp draw through the negative battery cable..after letting the truck sit idle for 20/30 minutes.

In the process of removing and reinstalling every fuse..

Pulled the Radio Fuse - draw dropped to 2.1amp [OEM Bose 7 speaker system}

Pulled the Passenger Door and Rear View Towing Mirror Fuse - draw dropped to .2 amps.

The truck can now sit idle for 2 days without the battery being completely discharged. I don't know how much longer than 2 days at this point.. but with an 800 amp/hour battery it should be able to sit a long time.

I have read that the current draw shouldn't be more than 200 to 300 mA..

I had to trouble shoot the problem myself - I had the truck to the local Chevy Dealer, they had the truck for 2 hours and couldn't find the problem. ??…da...

FWIW,

Carl B.

[kaufmankdk]

I eventually tracked my problem down to a "headlight / dome light switch". problem solved. It was intermittent and I chased it for the past 4 years.