Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2006 silverado 1500HD LT. As of last night, my driver seat is dead. None of the power seat buttons works. I can't move the seat as well as the heated seat is not working either. All of these features are working on the passenger side. I checked all of the connections on the bottom of the seat and nothing seems loose. I also looked in the manual to see which fuses may be the problem. It looks like there is a fuse that controls the heated seats/Ignition and then a circuit breaker that controls both of the power seats. I have yet to find a fuse that controls JUST the driver seat. So does anyone have any ideas on what else to check or any clues as to why just the driver seat is not working??

Posted

So I went ahead and pulled the circuit breaker for several minutes, and put another new 10A fuse in for the power seat and now everything seems to be working......weird. The other fuse that was in there was a good fuse, and it is weird that pulling the circuit breaker for several minutes would fix it, because there are only 2 prongs on the breaker and it controls both seats. I never had any trouble with the passenger seat. Do I have an electrical Gremlin??!!!

Posted

Your driver's motor was jammed somehow and needed a reset by removing and reapplying power. How often do you actually move it? The only time I move my Malibu's power seat is to clean under it.

Posted

Your driver's motor was jammed somehow and needed a reset by removing and reapplying power. How often do you actually move it? The only time I move my Malibu's power seat is to clean under it.

 

 

I rarely ever move the seat or adjust it. I have been using the heated seats daily...I live in Alaska. But they appear to be 2 complete different circuits because the power to the seat is the 30A circuit breaker that controls both seats and then the heated seats are included in the ignition with a 10A fuse. So I just think it is odd that they both go out at the same time and that it was only the driver side and not the passenger.

 

I do have one motor that has stopped worrking, it is the front tilt motor on the bottom cushion. It stopped working a while back.

Posted

I'm make some (educated) assumptions here, but it would explain what you found:

*the fuse you are referring to, the 10a one: I can promise that 10a is not enough current to power a seat heater, most likely that fuse only powers the control circuit to the seat heater. It carries small amounts of power to activate a relay under the seat that turns on the seat heater

*the breaker you pulled: it supplies all of the power to the seat motors and seat heaters, that's why it's 30a. ALSO, an automotive circuit breaker is designed to "trip" and stay in that state until power is removed, then it will reset itself and continue to function as long as power isn't overdrawn. This is unlike your house breakers that you go and turn off then back on, there is no switch on the automotive version.

 

Some basic electrical to further explain:

Switches rarely carry the full load of the item it is switching, it minimizes wiring size, weight and routing high amperage capability where it's not needed (no need for that much power to go in to your door panel control bank in the first place if it's coming back out). Instead millivolts are passed through the switch and those millivolts activate a relay that switches the big power.

 

I have no idea why the other seat was still working unless you are mistaken and there is a separate breaker, I just don't know.

  • Like 1
Posted

Got in my truck this morning and there is no heat in the seats, and the power on the driver has stopped working. If it is a relay setup, where is the relay for the seats, and where is the fuse that controls the other side of the relay??

Posted

the relays are under the seat. The seat has only one power wire feeding it, it gets distributed under the seat.

There is no fuse on the power to the relay, that's what the circuit breaker is for. Pull the breaker and reinstall it and you should have power again. Chances are you have a short somewhere under your seat and it's tripping the breaker. Could be a bad wire, seat motor or seat heater.

  • Like 1
Posted

Sounds like a lot of fun is in my future.......I tried pulling the circuit breaker again and leaving it out for a little bit and then reinstalling, and that didnt help it this time. Am I correct in assuming that the heated seats and power function are on 2 seperate circuits since they are in 2 seperate locations on the fuse block?? If so, any ideas why they would both quit working at the same time, or is it just a fluke and I really have 2 seperate issues that just happened to occur at the same time??

  • 4 years later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 11 months later...
Posted

Hey Guys, my 2003 Suburban's power driver's seat worked when the wife took it to the store, but when I went out later the seat was dead. No power, and the heater was a zero as well... Passenger seat was still functioning fine... ...I disconnected the battery for 30 seconds, and after reconnecting, the seat works again. Give it a shot...can't hurt...hope this helps somebody.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 11/13/2017 at 9:48 AM, Backlineguy said:

Hey Guys, my 2003 Suburban's power driver's seat worked when the wife took it to the store, but when I went out later the seat was dead. No power, and the heater was a zero as well... Passenger seat was still functioning fine... ...I disconnected the battery for 30 seconds, and after reconnecting, the seat works again. Give it a shot...can't hurt...hope this helps somebody.

Did this fix the problem, or did it persist down the road?

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
    • Rockauto bud. I pass local stores for parts.   Findya something online. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...