Jump to content

Messin with iGO


Tony1970

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys.....your all pros by now.....

 

So was wondering if anyones encountered this.....

 

Its about the map always starting up in night mode

 

And yes I did this on my backup sd card

 

I removed what Walt said to in the branding zip file....

 

Thing still starts up the same way....its weird

 

if you look at the startup of the primo....its in day mode

 

when you open the map screen the info boxes are white, thats day mode

 

but the map is black???? :M16:

 

anyone see this problem?

 

T

Posted

You can change the default night mode in the Sys.txt file in the root directory to:

auto_nightmode=0. As to the info boxes my experience is that they are tied into the day/night sensor of the OGM-1 . The map is tied into the GPS signal and the time is calculated from that. I have seen where it can take up to 15 minutes for the map to change color when in auto mode yet the info boxes seem to follow the OGM. I have noticed the GPS side of iGO seems to be it's weakness, the altitude seldom works, the GPS screen seldom shows info and the tracking seems to be off by as much as 20 ft at times. I have even relocated my antenna in an effort to improve the signal with no avail. In reading some of the Forums this seems to be a common complaint.

 

 

Posted

Mine must be the only one that doesn't do that. If it's daytime it starts in day mode and at night it starts in night mode. It's been pretty flawless up until this morning. It suddenly got very laggy- delayed volume changes, station changes, the "volume" text would stay up and not fade away like normal and so on. Turned the truck off and back on to make it reboot and all is well now.

 

Does anyone know how to make it reboot without turning the truck off?

Posted

Mine must be the only one that doesn't do that. If it's daytime it starts in day mode and at night it starts in night mode. It's been pretty flawless up until this morning. It suddenly got very laggy- delayed volume changes, station changes, the "volume" text would stay up and not fade away like normal and so on. Turned the truck off and back on to make it reboot and all is well now.

 

Does anyone know how to make it reboot without turning the truck off?

 

 

hey mike........theres a little button by the map slot...reset with a paper clip

 

yea i know what u mean.....took the enclave 4 a spin tonight......wanted to test the igo

 

even though i still love my ogm1....tonight it surprised me

 

i dont know if its because the unit mabe dosnt have enough ram 4 the primo

 

but ,, i plugged in a route right across the city of toronto

 

 

and i had my ipod plugged in and was listening to it.....i was on the map screen...and every time i tracked \\

 

up or down......i had major lags same with volume....had to push the steering wheel controls.several times b4 it would respond....

 

somehow i dont think igo and ipod mesh well together

 

it never did that with the navmate should i put the navmate back in??? ahhhhhhhh

 

cpd 1670.....im gonna read your post better later.........

 

but i had some issues with the gps diagnostics.....sometimes it says 0 satalites buy shows accuracy high???

 

whats up with that??

 

and yes ...on my test run....while ipod was playing....the directions....were some times muffled sometimes in audable and sometimes the volume went up and down while amy was talking ( gee i wonder what she looks like )

 

and no speed limit info showed....im in canada...so mabe the mapping data isnt there for that info

 

guess ill keep tryin !!!

 

please guys tell me your thoughts.....

 

Tony

Posted

Won't that reset be a hard reset where I lose all my settings?

 

I have not noticed any speed limit indicators on mine yet. I have no use for them though, I have a lead foot. My work-issued TomTom has them and I didn't know the speed box wasn't supposed to be red till I got stuck in traffic once. :lol:

 

Mine will lag like yours does sometimes. This morning was worse than ever but mine will do what you experienced sometimes. Normally it's fine though. It does flake out on occasion- sometimes it won't see my iPhone.

 

I need to find out how to search for a POI in another state still. I tried to do this and couldn't make it search anything but NH. Time to dig out the manual again I guess.

Posted

well mike ....these things we can try ...until we work the bugs out

 

i think i tryed it back last summer ...i dont remember losing my settings....but i dont think its like a system reset in the settings menu

 

give it a shot.....but i hope this igo dosnt turn out to be a white elephant !!!!!

Posted

Quick question on navi. Is there a way for the turn by turn to verbalize street name. For example. Make next. Right at main street. Rather than just make next right

Posted

well mike ....these things we can try ...until we work the bugs out

 

i think i tryed it back last summer ...i dont remember losing my settings....but i dont think its like a system reset in the settings menu

 

give it a shot.....but i hope this igo dosnt turn out to be a white elephant !!!!!

 

 

Yes me too, this whole OGM-1 and IGO software messups are getting out of hand...

Posted
Quick question on navi. Is there a way for the turn by turn to verbalize street name. For example. Make next. Right at main street. Rather than just make next right

Yes, in SysConfigutor under TTS is a box you can check "say name of Street".

Posted

How do I get to the system configuration. I have the link Walt provided but I don't know how to download the widgets. Am I making sense

Posted

You need to download the SysConfiguator from ADC's website, open the program and select the options you want, create the new Sys.txt file, copy and replace the old sys file in the root directory of iGo with the new file.

BACKUP iGO FIRST!

Posted

ok...cpd

 

when i try to get that program...from the bottom of adcs web site....it always says its down....

 

is that link to file factory the right place to get it?

 

i tried that ...auto_nightmode="0"....i found it under the save folder on the sd card

 

is this correct......cuz when i put the sd card back in......it was still the same... :banghead::M16::ughdance::nopity:

 

Help !

 

 

T

Posted

You need to download the SysConfiguator from ADC's website, open the program and select the options you want, create the new Sys.txt file, copy and replace the old sys file in the root directory of iGo with the new file.

BACKUP iGO FIRST!

 

 

Ok thanks. Got it backed up and new stuff in root. Now when I put card back in do I go thru same steps that advent recommends for installing new firmware

Posted

Also I had to get a bigger sd card because with the 4gb it said not enough room. Is that normal. I didn't really add anything except red light cameras, street announce and 3 second start up

Posted
Also I had to get a bigger sd card because with the 4gb it said not enough room. Is that normal. I didn't really add anything except red light cameras, street announce and 3 second start up

DO NOT go through the firmware update steps, iGo should read the changes on the sd card. I'm using a 16gb card so I haven't seen any memory issues.

 

ok...cpd when i try to get that program...from the bottom of adcs web site....it always says its down.... is that link to file factory the right place to get it? i tried that ...auto_nightmode="0"....i found it under the save folder on the sd card is this correct......cuz when i put the sd card back in......it was still the same... :banghead::M16::ughdance::nopity: Help ! T

You want to add the "auto_nightmode=0" to the sys file in the root directory, not the save folder.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Gilkey96
    Newest Member
    Gilkey96
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 783 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • When I bought my 14 GMC I turned it off with an handheld programmer. With my 16 Odyssey I left it on solely because I didn’t have much money in the vehicle. There’s a device to turn it off that’s a little more involved. The GMC at 72 MPH the deactivation was on very little the deference was 1/2 mile per gallon. The Odyssey is on over half the time at 72 mph. 
    • Anyone ever thought about switching the interior door panels from the base model to the Denali style? I’ve seen that you basically have to cut, sand, mold, paint, the window switches together to get the look right. Is that the main reason people don’t bother doing the swap? Seems like the only method that is easy I guess, without having to mess around with wiring and stuff.
    • Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...