Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500. 178,000 miles, original owner, garage kept. I use it to tow my boat and for chores around the house. I am very disappointed that the fenders on the truck bed are beginning to rust from the inside out. I have kept this truck clean and well maintained since the day I bought it. I am so disappointed in the rust which will be the death of this truck. The dealer wanted to give me all of $2,000 on a trade for a new one. Not really interested in another Government Motors truck after this experience. Has anyone else had the same bad luck with a well maintained GM truck? Suggestions on what to do?

Posted

Nope... only you.... :dunno:

 

 

 

Come on... your disappointed in a 12 year old truck with 178,000 miles that has some rust in the fenders? They don't last for ever. Some get it worse than others. Get the rust fixed and continue enjoying the truck.

Posted

Nope... only you.... :dunno:

 

 

 

Come on... your disappointed in a 12 year old truck with 178,000 miles that has some rust in the fenders? They don't last for ever. Some get it worse than others. Get the rust fixed and continue enjoying the truck.

 

Parents have a year 2000 or 1999 Ford f350 with more miles than that and the paint looks new still . They do wax it like or I should say they use to wax it like 3 times a year because I had to do it when I lived there. For 12 years it should not be rusting if it was taken car of like he says maybe he just cleaned it but did not wax it to protect the paint. I believe waxing a vehicle is really important if you want your pain to last

 

Dont get the spray on wax get the stuff you rub in like turtle wax or mothers the old school way .

Posted

Nope... only you.... :dunno:

 

 

 

Come on... your disappointed in a 12 year old truck with 178,000 miles that has some rust in the fenders? They don't last for ever. Some get it worse than others. Get the rust fixed and continue enjoying the truck.

 

Parents have a year 2000 or 1999 Ford f350 with more miles than that and the paint looks new still . They do wax it like or I should say they use to wax it like 3 times a year because I had to do it when I lived there. For 12 years it should not be rusting if it was taken car of like he says maybe he just cleaned it but did not wax it to protect the paint. I believe waxing a vehicle is really important if you want your pain to last

 

Dont get the spray on wax get the stuff you rub in like turtle wax or mothers the old school way .

 

My truck is a 05 looks new still and in a other 7 years it will still look good if I keep on waxing it like 3 times a year and wash it to get all the salt off from winters.
Posted

Bigreddog, are you talking about the wheel wells?

 

Also,where do you live? I'm from northern MA and its pretty common to see rust inside fenders and other areas where dirt and road salt can fly up from the tire and stay there until the truck is wash real good.

Posted

The rocks chip the paint off down to the metal, then the rust moves in. Just part of owning a truck without plastic liners.

Posted

Washing and waxing the outside paint won't help. Rust that starts on the inside is from mud or salt getting stuck up on the lip. Firsthand experience with this on the 1990. But no matter how much you wash a truck, eventually it will rust. Cab corners, fenders, down on the rocker. Brand does not matter. Just a fact of life, things don't last forever. :dunno:

Posted

A good cleaning after the winter season to me if you live in the North East always entails for me removing my fender wells, jacking the truck and cleaning the crap that gets stuck there. And there is ALOT of road dirt and crap! A good exterior wash will almost never completely get this crud off without you doing this. This is not just an issue with GM.

Posted

I thought the metal parts under the trucks are suppose to be sprayed with a protective coating that prevents this rust. All I know is that on my parents older vehicles are basically rust free. ( I would have to do a detail look to find rust) years are a 1991 and a 1999 or 2000 not sure. ) Some vehicle makes do rust faster I know that for a fact . I would hear the old timers talk about how Toyota rust like hell and Chev and Dodge . Did not here Fords name brought up .....

 

So quality of metal and how much do they protect it with a protective coating?

 

My experience grew up in BC and Alberta we use lots of salt on our roads. Next time I am at my parents place (8hours away) I will take pics if you guys like of their two older trucks .

Posted

for some reason the 99-02 trucks were more prone to rusting then the 03+ trucks. my 2001 with 108k dosent have any rust on the body, frame is still decent. it does seem to have some microscopic rust spots under the clear coat when looking at the paint about 3 inches away.

 

have a 2003 suburban with 170,000 miles and no body rust at all

Posted

Thanks everyone for your comments. I keep this truck very clean. I wash it regularly, including spraying off the undercarriage and cleaning the wheel wells. I wash it during the winter. I live in Kentucky where the winters are not terrible but they do salt the roads when bad weather comes in. I wax it a couple of times a year and usually have it completely detailed inside and out, every other year. This is not just a little rust I am talking about. The entire back side of the fenders on the bed is rusting from the inside out. The wheel wells are berginning to be affected also since they are joined to the fender. It is almost like GM did not prime the back side of the metal.

Posted

Well, if it makes you feel better, my dad has a 10 year old Dodge Ram that has rusted out rockers, rusted doors, and is almost rusted through above the wheels on the bed. It only has 40K miles on it.

Posted

there are a few trucks running around town here that have a little rust, in the usual spots, that are that body style. i don't know what year they are. one of my friends neighbors has one that bodystyle, rocker panels and cab corners rusted through badly, fenders rusting through, it has rust everywhere.

 

i do my best to keep mud and salt from packing up under my truck. i pressure wash underneath my truck thuroughly about 3 times a year. usually right at the end of winter, and the two times a year that i decide to tear a mudhole in half.

Posted

Thanks everyone for your comments. I keep this truck very clean. I wash it regularly, including spraying off the undercarriage and cleaning the wheel wells. I wash it during the winter. I live in Kentucky where the winters are not terrible but they do salt the roads when bad weather comes in. I wax it a couple of times a year and usually have it completely detailed inside and out, every other year. This is not just a little rust I am talking about. The entire back side of the fenders on the bed is rusting from the inside out. The wheel wells are berginning to be affected also since they are joined to the fender. It is almost like GM did not prime the back side of the metal.

 

Yea I agree it should not rust like that . Like KMGZ400 said maybe you got a bad year. I am only 25 but I can remember in my life some truck brands would rust faster than others.
Posted

My buddy has a F250 02 with 75k on it with 2 rusted threw rear fender wells.My 2000 gmc 2500 has 180k with no rust on the frame,none on the body.Same with my 99.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 434 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...