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04 Sierra 1500 shake at certain speed -need help


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Posted

I have an 04 Sierra 1500 5.3 2wd extended cab that up until now has been great. The only real repair I have had to do besides brakes is a front hub bearing.

 

Anyway, in the last two days I have noticed a bad vibration at around 35mph. I will accelerate slowly and notice a very slight vibration around 15-20, but oit gets worse between 30-35 and worst at almost exactly 35mph. After 35 it slowly goes away until I can detect almost no vibration at 45-50. It is even worse when slowing down, as I can let off the gas at 40, and coast and still feel the bad vibration at 35. At first I thought it might be another hub assembly going bad. After jacking up the truck today I found the wheels feeling tight and I could detect no movement. I also thought to see if the engine could have a problem, but found none as the engine light does not come on, and driving the truck in 2nd, 3rd, and even D at differing RPMs has no effect on the vibration. Last, for the past year I have noticed that when I go from park to drive and release the brakes, I can hear a metallic sounding clunk coming from either under or behind the truck. It definately gets worse when it is colder. Also looking at the truck I noticed that the rear brakes are only wearing in a 1" space on the rear drums. I know something with the brakes needs help, but I doubt that this would cause the shake.

 

My guesses of what it could be but need some other opinions and suggestions...

1) Driveshaft center support bearing (HB88107A $19 at Autozone) -I've had one go bad in the past on an S-10 because I had a bad shudder from a stop. I have no such shudder though in this truck.

2) Universal joints. ($10 give or take, but apparently lots of possible part numbers -1 1/8 1-1/16 or 1-3/16 sizes) -I only think U joint because of the clunk I hear when I put the truck into gear. Otherwise I'm not sure how a U joint could cause the vibration/shaking.

3) Transmission mount. ($14 #2811 at Autozone) I'm only guessing this because it gets mushy with age and any shake could be amplified.

4) Motor mount. I don't think it is this because the vibraton is speed dependent and not RPM dependent. Still, I figured I would throw it in.

 

I can remove a driveshaft but also realize the double cardon joints that were in my S-10 are super costly to fix. I am hoping this truck doesn't have the same. I figure I'll have to pay someone to press the bearing and joints in.

 

What do you all think I should be looking for? Thanks in advance.

 

<edit> The truck has approx 160,000 miles on it.

Posted

Have you had the tires balanced lately? I have a bad tire that has excessive road force and can not be fixed with weights. It is worst at 45 mph and comes in and out like you describe. I would take to a shop and have tires balanced and road force checked before throwing other parts at it. Wouldn't hurt to check the other stuff you have listed, but I wouldn't start replacing on a whim unless you find somthing loose/worn.

Posted

Hmmm, hadn't thought of a bad tire. I've had balancing issues but it would always just be bad at highway speeds or something, never at a specific speed. I had also thought maybe a shock problem but with the truck having the electronic shocks with the normal and hauling/performance setting I'm not paying $300 a pair to throw at the problem unless I know its bad. The wheels/tires seem like an easy enough check and can head to where I got them from this weekend. Hopefully they won't charge too terribly much to check out the problem.

 

PS, what is road force? Never heard that term.

Posted

Way back when I was a lot younger, vibrations that came in at about 35mph, and decreased at about 45 mph, and could be best described as being like pulsing bass hum were usually caused by a seized u-joint. The only way to verify was to remove the driveshaft and check the u-joint for smooth movement. Simply pushing/pulling on the shaft while installed will not show a seized u-joint.

Posted

I've already prices out the u-joints, and unfortunately, they no longer charge $15 a joint for removal and replace, but more like $70 per as they figure an hour each. It's insane. I've called all over and have basically been told that the joints and support bearing replaced will cost me about $300 total. Lots of labor $$ for $50 in parts. Taking the truck to have the wheels looked at in the AM. hopefully it's just a bad tire. Worst case is $135 for a replacement.

Posted

Took the truck to the tire shop this morning and found no balance issues. They only needed to move the weights a few inches in one direction or the other. Will probably wind up pulling the drive shaft. If anyone has other suggestions I'd appreciate it. If I take it to someone to diagnose I'm looking at a $100 bill for an hour or so. I can get the shaft rebuilt for a hundred or two more. I'm not sure this wouldn't be a bad idea with 160,000 miles on it anyway.

Posted

Most shops will wave diagnosis fees if you have the repairs done at the same time. You can check u-joints yourself if you can turn a wrench. Remove the shaft, and see if the joints move freely throughout their range of motion. They need to move smoothly as well.

Posted

+1 on the wheel balancing, could also be a driveshaft problem.

Posted

Just to update and end the thread:

 

I took it to a driveline shop as I was picking up a rebuilt shaft. They offered to inspect the old one on the lift and replace if necessary for a reduced labor charge. Took them up on their offer and found quickly that the center joint was loose in the east/west direction, but frozen in the north/south direction. They installed the new one and now no more vibrations.

 

Now on to the other problems I've been ignoring...

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I recon I'll swap out the U-Joints while I have the drive shaft out anyways.

I drive an 03 ECSB 1500 two piece drive shaft...

Three u-joints, are they all three the same?

Any suggestions on them as well?

 

1 1/8" OD or 1 1/16" OD?

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