Jump to content

WDTV Live, OGM1 & iPhone 5 = Amazing!


Recommended Posts

Posted

If you want the most bang for the buck you can get from spending under $100 on your vehicle's entertainment system, order a WDTV Live Media Player (WDBHG70000NBK - $65 for a refurbed unit on Amazon), connect it via the built-in wireless to the hotpspot on your iPhone or other mobile hotspot, download the WD Remote app, then you'll be able to control the WDTV with your phone (or with a mobile hotspot, from an iPod Touch)!

 

What this means is that now you can hide the box completely (under a seat, in the glove box, etc) and not have to worry about having line-of-sight access for the remote - it's done via wi-fi. You can hook two USB sticks or hard drives to it, as well as access YouTube, Netflix and even Slingbox (watch the video!) from the WDTV.

 

It's badass:

 

 

Posted

Pretty Sweet, what modification did you have to make to the Media Link Cable in order to tie the WDTV in, or were you able to just plug it into the existing 3.5mm input on the Media link? Also I noted that older versions of the SlingBox won't work, it has to be a newer version that is compatible with the WDTV.

Posted

Pretty Sweet, what modification did you have to make to the Media Link Cable in order to tie the WDTV in, or were you able to just plug it into the existing 3.5mm input on the Media link? Also I noted that older versions of the SlingBox won't work, it has to be a newer version that is compatible with the WDTV.

 

 

My setup is pretty complex, since I've done multiple relays to switch in multiple different devices on the A/V input of the Advent. You can hook up the WDTV Live to the existing 3.5 mm A/V jack on the media link pod just by sourcing the correct RCA to 3.5 mm adapter and hooking it to the A/V cabling that comes with the WDTV Live.

 

These are the pin assignments on the Advent's 3.5 mm adapter:

  • tip – left +

     

  • second ring – right +

     

  • third ring – ground

     

  • fourth ring - video +

     

 

You are correct about the Slingbox - you do need the latest version to be able to have that as a built-in app, but I just ordered a refurbed unit from Amazon for $68 shipped to my door, so it's not going to break the bank to pick up a newer version...

Posted

Walt,

You wouldn't happen to know the pin assignments on a standard 3.5mm audio/video plug? I have the plug, I just need to know what cables to cut and splice in order to work on the Advent input.

 

Thanks

Posted

Walt,

You wouldn't happen to know the pin assignments on a standard 3.5mm audio/video plug? I have the plug, I just need to know what cables to cut and splice in order to work on the Advent input.

 

Thanks

 

 

There really is no "standard", so you have to match what I outlined - use a VOM and meter your adapter.

 

Advent input: Tip is left RCA +, 2nd ring is right RCA +, 3rd ring is RCA ground and last ring is video RCA +

Posted

Sorry for the OT question, but what about Spotify & Slacker support? I did a search, but did not see anything.

Posted

Sorry for the OT question, but what about Spotify & Slacker support? I did a search, but did not see anything.

 

 

Spotify is there, Slacker is not.

Posted

Set this up today and Walt's right, this is the Cat's ass. I spend a lot of time in my vehicle sitting stationary and this is going to be great! Love the Sling Player feature.

Posted

Set this up today and Walt's right, this is the Cat's ass. I spend a lot of time in my vehicle sitting stationary and this is going to be great! Love the Sling Player feature.

 

Told ya! :thumbs:

 

Did you get the refurbed version for about $70?

Posted

Told ya! :thumbs:

 

Did you get the refurbed version for about $70?

Yep, Got it off Ebay. One thing I did notice is that watching Netflix via the WDTV seems to use a lot more data that watching it via my ipad. Not sure why this happens, but it's something you might want to keep an eye on if you don't have an unlimited data plan.

Posted

Where is the best place to ground the unit? I got accessory power from under the dash, X14 pin 8, and grounded at pin 1. I am sharing the pin 8 power with my backup camera, and have a SPST switch on the WDTV. I grounded both my backup camera and WDTV to pin1.

 

I am getting a whine on Video input and WDTV on with the vehicle running, and increases with throttle.

 

Thanks

Posted

Where is the best place to ground the unit? I got accessory power from under the dash, X14 pin 8, and grounded at pin 1. I am sharing the pin 8 power with my backup camera, and have a SPST switch on the WDTV. I grounded both my backup camera and WDTV to pin1.

 

I am getting a whine on Video input and WDTV on with the vehicle running, and increases with throttle.

 

Thanks

 

It might be a ground issue, and grounding it to a clean metal stud or screw would be the best bet.

 

If you still have noise after that, it might be worth trying a couple of different RCA noise filters on the red & white audio output RCA's of the WDTV to see which one cuts it down the most.

 

We always had great luck using Audiovox IST2 filters, but I don't buy them anymore, so I don't know if they are still available...

Posted

Thanks Walt. I'll play around with it tomorrow or Monday.

 

I only had male RCA to 3.5mm cable at home and a female/female adapter to splice the WDTV RCA. Might be a connection issue with that.

 

Everything is working great. Gonna really like this.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I just can't think of the exact term GM uses for that higher gvw package without looking at the website but basically sort of a trailering package and I imagine it may also have been created to skirt around the licensing fee differences between a3/4 and 1 ton that apply in some states although ironically I believe in some states its the reverse that a 1 ton is the cheaper truck to license over a 3/4 ton. It makes no difference here in Alberta but oddly enough a 1 ton through my insurance company is a bit cheaper to insure over a 3/4 ton as its based on the insurance statistics they generate.    For sure when ever you do have the chance to weigh your truck and to be fair, try to have the fuel tank full or nearly so rather than give yourself a false sense of the truck being lighter by having an almost empty tank.    In my other comment I was mentioning stock sized tires and partly in case someone was reading this and thinking they could lower their pressure down to what your aftermarket tires are able to do with your empty truck as that is a vastly different picture in the leeway you have to play with for running minimum pressures while remaining safe. I will say also that its easy to see from reactions of truck owners that may have been more used to owning a half ton in the past or a car and be it on a forum like this or in person etc that they get so wrapped up in that placard pressure sticker that they can't get their head wrapped around the fact that an HD truck due to how much it can carry can also vary the tire pressures drastically lower than those pressures ( typically more so for the rear axle on stock sized tires ) when empty vs some car that isn't made to carry much so the tire pressures can't be lowered since it needs almost that much pressure just to carry the empty car.    If I ever do find myself in the states with this truck, I will only be too happy to switch it over to the US measuring system as then I will understand all the dash readings. The only thing that is off for me slightly with US measurements is US miles per gallon as I grew up with the Imperial gallon and to this day up here anyway speak in Imperial miles per gallon ( I don't do that on this forum though as that would confuse everyone for no good reason ). 
    • Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...