Jump to content

2005 GMC Sierra 1500 Center Console Removal Questions


jmpidgeo

Recommended Posts

Posted

More questions related to my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. It has the loaded interior with leather bucket seats, center console, etc.

 

My driver's side auto climate control system is stuck on hot. I believe that the temperature valve actuator is bad as there was no change with the recalibration procedure I have found and the fact that the passenger side temperature changes normally both automatically and when I manually change the temperature set point hotter or colder.

 

I have already figured out what I need to do to replace it (seems super easy), but being that my truck has the center console, I need to remove it to gain acces to ONE bolt on the I/P insulator panel (and so that the I/P insulator panel can be removed) before I can get the temperature valve actuator replaced.

 

My question is, can anyone provide me with pictures or diagrams related to removing the center console? I've always been scared of taking interior stuff apart for fear of breakng plastic pieces upon disassembly and/or them not going back together correctly. I understand I'll need to remove both front seats, but that seems to be the easy part as far as I'm concerned.

 

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Posted

If it's anything like the center console in my 02 it's quite easy to do. Here's some info to assist you. If you need anything more let me know and I'll see if I can find it.

 

05console.pdf

05console2.pdf

05console3.pdf

05console.pdf

05console2.pdf

05console3.pdf

05console.pdf

05console2.pdf

05console3.pdf

05console.pdf

05console2.pdf

05console3.pdf

Posted

If you want to take it out in one piece this may be what you're looking for.....it doesn't have to come out in one piece though and as far as I'm concerned it's much less work not removing the seats to do it.

05console4.pdf

05console4.pdf

05console4.pdf

05console4.pdf

Posted

Thank you so much for the information. I think I can get everything done with the info you have provided. I'm going to go after the non-seat removal method, doesn't seem too bad at all.

Posted

so, remove the screws at the base of the console, remove the bezel around the power outlet and cig lighter, unplug electircal stuff, remove bolts holding the console to the I/P, and remove cupholder and remove bolts under there and that is it?

Posted

Obviously the one in my 02 isn't exactly like the one in your 05. Are you having issues? If so let me know what, where, etc. and I'll see if I can find the tech info for you.

Posted

I haven't attempted it yet, my actuator is on order and I'll be doing it along with both upstream O2 sensors once the parts show up. If I run into trouble i'll let you know. Thanks for all the help!



I am debating on trying to get the actuator changed without removing the console as well...I found some info that the screw that is blocked by the console can be removed/installed with one of those 'finger' ratchets. Might give that a try, haven't really decided yet.

Posted

I'll see if I can find the removal/replacement info on the actuator.....maybe that will help you decide whether you need to remove the console or not. What HVAC system do you have? Left or right air temp actuator? Did you try the recalibration procedure? I personally hate the electric actuators, cables never caused any trouble at all.

Posted

I already know where it is at and what I have to do to replace it, the console just is in the way of the screw holding the I/P insulator panel on. Can't really get access to it with a normal ratchet, hence why I was debating trying the finger ratchet tool. Once I have access to the actuator it should take about 5 minutes to change out, getting access to that one screw on the insulator panel is the real biatch with the center console.

 

Anyways, it is the dual zone auto climate control HVAC system, and it is the driver's side actuator that I believe went bad. I tried the re-calibration procedures and nothing has changed the fact that the driver's side is constantly blowing hot air while the passenger's side works fine. Luckily, the driver's side actuator is easily accessible...if you don't have a center console.

 

This video showed me how easy it was to replace

 

 

Posted

Yes. Youtube FTW. I had no idea it was that easy to replace it until I saw that video.

Wait 'till you have to replace the actuator above that one...... you need to remove most of the dash

Posted

 

Wait 'till you have to replace the actuator above that one...... you need to remove most of the dash

yeah I know. I am dreading the day that happens. Ideally, it won't.
Posted

SUCCESS! My drivers side climate control works again

Ended up removing both front seats to move the console because I couldn't get to two of the console bracket screws. Much easier to remove the seats anyways, and it gives an opportunity to clean up all the crap that falls down there over time. The previous owner must have really liked Corn Nuts :crackup:

Anyways, here's to hoping I don't have to do the passenger side actuator anytime soon.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!
    • If I forget the phone in the truck, and forget the truck in the phone, and reconnect.  It works great for the day.  Truck sits overnight, and the next day is a no go.  It will connect Android Auto via usb cable, but not bluetooth.   Ive tried Everything in this thread so far, and nothing works for more than a day.   I think I might have to go to the dealer and have them flash the pcm.   thanks for all the suggestions guys. 👍
    • 2022 2500HD Crew Z71 Duramax single alternator.  Recently had the primary (water pump / fan) belt tensioner pulley bearing to fail while hundreds of miles from home of course the plastic pulley melted and belt shredded which took out some wiring. Found a replacement tensioner assembly and belt to continue now would like to find a replacement for just the pulley and bearing to have a spare assembly in case of a repeat, the rest of the tensioner is fine. Has anybody here found a correct replacement part for just the pulley and bearing? Any help is appreciated.
    • +1 for the 3.0   Perfect for 1500 pickup towing duties.   Perfect engine for a 1500 pickup period. Huge torque at stunningly low RPM makes it feel a lot lighter than it is. The fuel mileage is insane for a tall and heavy 1500... 30+ on the highway. Mid 20's around town.   It's probably not perfect if you bought a 6.2 for the braaaaaaapppppp V8 noises and wrapping it out to 6k. The LZ0 acts and sounds like a small turbo diesel and there's nothing you can do to make a small turbo diesel sound like a big one, and you can't make an inline diesel sound like a V8 diesel/big Duramax. It's a different driving experience altogether.   Drive one, I think you'll like it, though...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...