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6.0 vs. 8.1liter engine

carload4916
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carload4916
carload4916

I am looking at buying a used Chevy 2500hd and debating on which engine to get. This truck will get used on a farm as a work truck so it will do some towing from time to time but also as a run around

ATMINF
ATMINF

The 8.1 motor is very strong, uses about a quart of oil every 2000-3000 miles. The gas mileage is around 8-11, but when towing, it will not drop too much. The 6.0 uses about a quart every 4-5000 miles

becker87
becker87

Good point, I guess the moral of this thread is go drive them both, get the one that seems to be in better shape.

yukon25008.1 Senior Enthusiast

yukon25008.1

Posted
Posted

Definitly 8.1 , Ive also had both and the gas wasnt much better at all in the 6.0. both my 8.1 trucks dont use much oil.. Its definitly less then 1 qt in 3000 miles. The guys that knock the 8.1 have never driven or owned one! the only thing you could complain about is the mileage which again isnt much worse then the 6.0,s Its one of the best motors gm ever made, My most recent one is in an 04 silverado with 243,000 miles, It fires rite up and runs like a champ!

dirtfan21 Senior Enthusiast

dirtfan21

Posted
Posted

Don't have much input on the 8.1-6.0 argument but that maroon one is cranked up quite a bit. Make sure to check all the front end components and listen for any clunks when driving. Make sure to put it in 4x4 and see if there are any major whine noises or growls. I have leveled every truck I have ever owned knowing that it can wear parts quicker, with greasing and annual maintenance that is something I was willing to accept. The person that had this before you may have put new keys in it and cranked it till it looked good, not realizing the adverse things it can do over time.

 

All this wouldn't push me away from a truck, honestly the maroon one looks cleaner and the 8.1 is a beast. Just make sure to look it over really well on the underside and drive it hard on the test drive.

carload4916 Enthusiast

carload4916

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Don't have much input on the 8.1-6.0 argument but that maroon one is cranked up quite a bit. Make sure to check all the front end components and listen for any clunks when driving. Make sure to put it in 4x4 and see if there are any major whine noises or growls. I have leveled every truck I have ever owned knowing that it can wear parts quicker, with greasing and annual maintenance that is something I was willing to accept. The person that had this before you may have put new keys in it and cranked it till it looked good, not realizing the adverse things it can do over time.

 

All this wouldn't push me away from a truck, honestly the maroon one looks cleaner and the 8.1 is a beast. Just make sure to look it over really well on the underside and drive it hard on the test drive.

What do you mean by cranked up? Are you saying it has had engine work done to it? How can you tell?

 

I did drive both trucks today and I liked both of them. The only thing I noticed on the maroon one is the gear display wasn't working. He said he would have that fixed if I bought it. The maroon one may be out of the question. According to the dealer, it is being sold to another lot today since it has sat there for too long. That means the price will be higher. According to him, I would have to buy it today. Since I would have to have someone cosign for the loan, I would not be able to do it today, nobody is available to cosign today. Of course he could just be saying that to get me to buy the truck today.

 

On the white one, I noticed there is a noise in the front end when you turn the steering wheel when sitting still. According to a shop I took it to, it was a inexpensive fix.

kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
Posted

He's lying, the price will be lower if they can't sell it. Supply and demand. :lol:

 

By cranked up they mean the front suspension has had the torsion cranked to raise it, this puts strain on components.

dirtfan21 Senior Enthusiast

dirtfan21

Posted
Posted

What Danny said, the front end has been what we like to call cranked meaning the torsion bars have been cranked up to level the front wheel well height with the rear wheel well height. This changes the CV angles, tie rod angles, and ball joint angles. The gear display not working is common, most all the silverado/sierras had cluster issues that were fixed under recall, that is why he said they would do it if you bought it. GM usually pays for cluster issues once in those year trucks.

 

As for the noise you speak of when turning the other truck, it may be an intermediate steering shaft clunk that almost every '03-'06 silverado/sierra had. Not a real big deal there, just would need to be changed and I would make the dealer do it. I believe there is a TSB on it anyway.

carload4916 Enthusiast

carload4916

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I couldn't finish writing earlier, had something that I had to take care of.

 

Anyways, both trucks seem to drive real good. I am not to keen on the maroon one now because of the dealer situation. I hate dealing with dealers for this reason. How do you know when they are lieing or telling the truth?

 

On the white one, the shop said it was a tie rod, I believe. Which he said was like a $40 part. If I do buy the white one, I will probably not have the dealer fix it and I will tell you why. I have a 98 s-10 zr2 with about 90,000 miles that I am either going to trade it on or sell myself. The dealer that has the white one said he would give me $2500 for it. Now my s-10 does have a few problems. It needs a new a/c compressor, it leaks a little engine oil but nothing bad, and there is a popping in the rear end on uneven ground, not sure exactly what it is. He said he would buy my truck as it is if I buy his truck with that steering noise. $2500 is more than what the other dealer was going to give me for it.

 

I just don't like the fact that the white one has 109,000 miles on it. If I do buy it or possibly before I buy it, I am going to take it to a shop and have him go through the whole truck.

 

According to the dealer, the maroon one does not have the Allison transmission. If that is true, IMO there is no point in getting the 8.1. If I am going to get an 8.1, I might as well get it with the Ally trans.

Edited by memory1
kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
Posted

Tie rod fix shouldn't take much more than $200, if you assume $40 part, $60 alignment, and labor, assuming it needs nothing else. I'm leery of anything a dealer says trying to speed someone up. Lying or not, you're right in keeping yourself out of that situation.

carload4916 Enthusiast

carload4916

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Well that dealer with the maroon truck that said the truck is being sold to another lot, he may have been telling the truth. It is no longer listed on the website. Even so, I was unable to buy today anyways.

 

That is what I hate about dealers, you don't know whether he is telling the truth or not. I never tend to believe anything dealers say.

 

As of right now, it is either buy the white truck or keep looking. If I do buy this truck, do you think it is better to trade my truck in or try to sell it myself? I think I could get a little more if I sold it myself but then again, I may have trouble selling it with the problems it has.

Edited by memory1
rune Enthusiast

rune

Posted
Posted

Best experience I ever had with a dealer was when I negotiated the whole sale through email. So relaxing and got to lay my demands out with no pressure. It throws off their "car salesman" rhythm. Oh....and nit-pick the shit out it. This is dented, this is stained, this is leaking, that makes a noise. It's a good way to get them low. I usually throw bluebook out to them, and tell them I'm not going to pay even that because of said items. BB usually knocks quite a bit off of "asking" price and provides a more reasonable upper end. Ultimately be prepared to walk away. If you show them you want it, they have you hook, line and sinker. Be dis-interested.

ATMINF Enthusiast

ATMINF

Posted
Posted

100k on these trucks are nothing. These trucks will last you a very long time.

ATMINF Enthusiast

ATMINF

Posted
Posted

I would just flush the fluids and give it a good tune up. Replace the differential fluids,trans,oil,brake, coolent, plugs and wires. Take a look at all the hoses also.

carload4916 Enthusiast

carload4916

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have a problem. Without going into to many details, I need to replace the tailgate on my 98 s-10, it has a pretty good size hole through it, don't ask how it happened. It still opens and closes fine but has a ugly hole through it. Which years will fit on my 98 s-10? I am guessing my best option to replace a tailgate is to go to a junkyard?

 

I am considering trading this truck in and how much do you think the dealer would knock off the trade in value for a bad tailgate?

ATMINF Enthusiast

ATMINF

Posted
Posted

I would say the junkyard is the bet option. I want to say that that that body style was around for several years, so it should be easy to find. The only thing is that if they are overly expensive you might just take the tailgate off, and take it in for the trade. The dealer might not make a big deal over it. Just tell them you used a net style gate or something. Good luck.

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