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Cruise Control Stopped Working


SSSilverado23

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Posted

Ok, you said you 12v on two wires.....one was pink (should be for the turn signals/hazards), what color was the other wire? Pull the CC fuse and see if it goes away on the other wire.

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Posted

Ok so its the wirs going out. The pic with the pink, gr.y, black and blue wires im worried about? What to do? Pink has 12 V. Nothing else does

Posted

Ok so its the wirs going out. The pic with the pink, gr.y, black and blue wires im worried about? What to do? Pink has 12 V. Nothing else does

I do believe that 4 pin connector is the one yes....you said you had 12v on the pink wire there? If you do, pull the cruise cont fuse and check it again to verify that's your power source going to the MF switch.

Posted

I do believe that 4 pin connector is the one yes....you said you had 12v on the pink wire there? If you do, pull the cruise cont fuse and check it again to verify that's your power source going to the MF switch.

 

 

Yes sir! You were right. Think pink wire has 12v with the fuse in and 0V with it out. Thats the cruise wire.

Posted

Yes sir! You were right. Think pink wire has 12v with the fuse in and 0V with it out. Thats the cruise wire.

Whew....ok, that is the only plug that is associated w/ the cruise control wiring. The pink wire is 12v going into the multifunction switch (cruise control function only) and the grey wire is the 12 volts coming out of the MF switch that will eventually end up at the TAC when the cruise control is in the ON position.

Posted

Whew....ok, that is the only plug that is associated w/ the cruise control wiring. The pink wire is 12v going into the multifunction switch (cruise control function only) and the grey wire is the 12 volts coming out of the MF switch that will eventually end up at the TAC when the cruise control is in the ON position.

 

 

Ok..... Sorry for all the questions and keep pressing about this. There is no 12V on that grey wire with the key in the run position and the switch on the on position. So idk where to go from here?

Posted

Hell ask all the questions you want....we're getting there slowly but surely LOL. Can you unplug that 4 pin connector? If so put your multimeter on OHMS and check the wiring on the switch side. With the switch in ON you should be 0, with it OFF it will read infinity.

 

That pigtail wiring is actually part of the MF switch correct?

 

Which switch is in the truck....the original or the one you purchased?

Posted

Hell ask all the questions you want....we're getting there slowly but surely LOL. Can you unplug that 4 pin connector? If so put your multimeter on OHMS and check the wiring on the switch side. With the switch in ON you should be 0, with it OFF it will read infinity.

 

That pigtail wiring is actually part of the MF switch correct?

 

Which switch is in the truck....the original or the one you purchased?

 

 

Yes that pigtail is coming off of the switch. Ill go check that now. BRB.

Posted

Hell ask all the questions you want....we're getting there slowly but surely LOL. Can you unplug that 4 pin connector? If so put your multimeter on OHMS and check the wiring on the switch side. With the switch in ON you should be 0, with it OFF it will read infinity.

 

That pigtail wiring is actually part of the MF switch correct?

 

Which switch is in the truck....the original or the one you purchased?

 

How do i check the wireing? Ground out the one side of the multi meter and probe the wire? Im not sure how to go about this?

Posted

How do i check the wireing? Ground out the one side of the multi meter and probe the wire? Im not sure how to go about this?

Put one lead (doesn't matter which one) on the grey wire and the other on the pink wire. Make sure you put the meter on OHMS. You can verify what you're checking by just touching the leads together....not sure if you have a digital meter or not but just watch the display. You are trying to verify that when the switch is ON you have continuity through that circuit....although in all actuality you should have had 12v on it too. Make sense?

 

Check the one off of the truck first so you'll know what you're doing....

Posted

Put one lead (doesn't matter which one) on the grey wire and the other on the pink wire. Make sure you put the meter on OHMS. You can verify what you're checking by just touching the leads together....not sure if you have a digital meter or not but just watch the display. You are trying to verify that when the switch is ON you have continuity through that circuit....although in all actuality you should have had 12v on it too. Make sense?

 

Check the one off of the truck first so you'll know what you're doing....

 

 

The one off the truck has continuity. The one on the truck never changes switch on or off. Stays infinity. But neither switched has worked.

 

Sigh.....

Posted

The one off the truck has continuity. The one on the truck never changes switch on or off. Stays infinity. But neither switched has worked.

 

Sigh.....

 

Well now you at least know why your CC isn't working. The one off the truck is the original? Wasn't it working intermittently at one time?

Posted

Well now you at least know why your CC isn't working. The one off the truck is the original? Wasn't it working intermittently at one time?

 

Yes the one on the truck is the one off ebay. The one off the truck is the original. That was working when it felt like it but not for a few weeks. The one on the truck no never works. So its the switch i bought? Need a new swithc?

Posted

If it were me I'd contact the guy you bought it from on eBay and request a refund and explain to him what you did to determine the switch was bad. Then I'd put my original back in the truck and we'll do some more troubleshooting. We've got to get power out to that throttle actuator control first though. Don't get discouraged, we're going to get this thing fixed.

Posted

If it were me I'd contact the guy you bought it from on eBay and request a refund and explain to him what you did to determine the switch was bad. Then I'd put my original back in the truck and we'll do some more troubleshooting. We've got to get power out to that throttle actuator control first though. Don't get discouraged, we're going to get this thing fixed.

 

Just contacted him. Im sure i will get a refund.

 

Regardless I need a new switch correct? If so ill have autozone order me one up so i dont have to deal with broken used parts. Second time this has happened to me.

 

Ill take the old switch off tomorrow when i have light. Let me know if i should order that new switch. You think maybe its not just the switches problem too? I cant wait till all this stuff is overwith! :nonod:

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