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Like the title says, what's the best way to add an amp for sub to the GM Bose system? Hoping there's something better than tapping one of the rear speakers and adding in-line converter.

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Sorry, I'm adding an amp and 10" sub to the existing system. The 2014's Bose low end sound is very disappointing.

id have to agree, my 2013 sub is weak too. Id like to hear a little more punch on the lows.

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Aadding an amp to a crappy stereo isn't gonna do anything, maybe sound a little cleaner. That's about it.

 

I think he's talking about adding an amp AND a subwoofer. So what he really wants is a way to get low-level (pre-amplified) sound from the head unit, preferably the low frequencies only I'd imagine.

 

The stock Bose amplifier is under the center console I believe. If you can get to that, then you can tap into the wire coming out of the wire harness manually or get a line-level output adapter (check Crutchfield or somewhere like that) then run that to your separate amp.

 

It's possible, people do it all the time. It's just a kind of pain in the ass.

 

In my truck I just replaced all the speakers, head unit, and ran new amps and everything. Left factory speaker wire in the doors and whatnot and ran thicker gauge stuff do the new 4 channel amp for doors and mono amp for the subs.

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Tapping into stuff is a bad idea. Go to an audio store, IIRC they will sell you an inline harness specifically for adding an amp. Don't know if they'd have anything for a 2014 yet though.

Edited by kstruckcountry
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I think he's talking about adding an amp AND a subwoofer. So what he really wants is a way to get low-level (pre-amplified) sound from the head unit, preferably the low frequencies only I'd imagine.

 

The stock Bose amplifier is under the center console I believe. If you can get to that, then you can tap into the wire coming out of the wire harness manually or get a line-level output adapter (check Crutchfield or somewhere like that) then run that to your separate amp.

 

It's possible, people do it all the time. It's just a kind of pain in the ass.

 

In my truck I just replaced all the speakers, head unit, and ran new amps and everything. Left factory speaker wire in the doors and whatnot and ran thicker gauge stuff do the new 4 channel amp for doors and mono amp for the subs.

 

it may be good for most, but EVERY vehicle ive owned i rip that stock POS out first thing. cant stand them, never will. i dont even give them a chance, rip it out put in amps, components, woofers and a real HU.

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I have a 2014, so there's no ripping out the "stock POS" head unit. And like I said, I'm only interested in adding an amp/sub. The Bose system does a good job with highs/mids, but I'd like a little more low end. I'm installing RF Punch 325.1 and RF PS3 10" (pulled out of my old GMT-900 before selling). I'm getting older and my tastes have changed. My days of listening LOUD (along with my hearing) are gone! Gain on my amp is never above 50%. ha

 

I did professional audio for several years when I was younger, but haven't kept up with much in the last 10 years. I created this post, hoping someone out there had developed a simple plug-in-play solution, since automakers still refuse to give us built-in factory pre-amp outputs. I'll already be removing the rear seats to install the amp/sub... looks like I'll also be removing the front seats & center console now, which I was REALLY hoping to avoid. Oh well...

 

 

PS: There's nothing wrong with tapping wires, if you know what you're doing and you're willing to accept the drawbacks. For example, tapping a rear non-Bose speaker will give you a signal, but the low-end signal will decrease as the volume is increased. Tapping a Bose speaker will also technically work but it will lack the very low-end due to factory crossover/amp, as well as suffer from the volume-increase bass-decrease side effect.

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Dunno if this cool or not, but I found this link from this site in the first place:

 

http://chevroletforum.com/forum/tahoe-suburban-25/2007-tahoe-add-amp-21865/

 

Would it still be applicable?

Thanks, I've seen that write up before. Probably similar but not exactly the same in the new trucks. Guess I'll find out when I pull her apart.

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I'm curious as to what you discover as I'll most likely be doing something similar once I get a '14, although I may replace all the speakers and maybe add a sub (depending on available space).

 

I've seen some folks use the JL Audio signal processor (CleanSweep) to correct the signal that is mutilated by the Bose amplifier and that might be the best route to take if you want better quality. The other option is to use the line level converter and there are a few different types out there that people have used to integrate their aftermarket systems.

 

This is some info for pre-14 trucks:

 

8. What adapter do I need to keep the factory radio, but replace the speakers/Bose amp with an aftermarket speaker/amp combination?

-PAC AOEM-GM24. This allows you to completely remove all factory stock speakers/Bose stuff and still keep the factory radio working fine. It will give you front/rear RCA line-level outputs that will hook up to any aftermarket amplifier. Much to people's surprise, the factory Bose head units have a surprisingly "clean" line level output that will sound very good with aftermarket amps/speakers. There is NO Bose equalization and NO 'bass cuts as the volume goes up' coming out of the Bose head units. All the Bose garbage happends in the Bose amp itself. You will still retain all volume/bass/treble controls on the factory radio. NOTE: THIS IS NOT a standard "LOC" (line output converter, hooks to the factory speaker wires and gives you RCA plugs) that you can buy at any stereo shop!!! LOC's work completely differently and while they will work, the PAC AOEM-GM24 adapter will give you a MUCH cleaner signal because it grabs the line-level audio coming out of the head unit, NOT the audio thats already been mucked around with by the Bose amp. There is a difference! Especially with subs, the Bose signals are rolled off on the low end as they cross over to the subwoofer, so therefore bass especially will sound muddy and crappy on aftermarket speakers hooked up with an LOC. If you use a PAC AOEM-GM24 on a NON-Bose radio and are completely replacing all the stock speakers and installing aftermarket speakers and amps, I advise you go to the dealer and have them reprogram the radio to BOSE ("UQ7 w/o Y91"). There are separate instructions on how to program the radios. The reason I say this is because the NON-Bose radios output a semi-crappy signal that is designed for the crappy non-Bose speakers, as you turn the volume up on the non-Bose radios, bass is severely rolled off to protect the crappy non-Bose speakers. If you reprogram the radio to BOSE, the outputs will be low level, clean, and not 'messed around with' or equalized.

9. How do I keep the stock Bose speakers, but just supplement them with an aftermarket sub?

-PAC AOEM-GM24. Same adapter as above. Keeps the Bose speakers working, and gives you RCA line level outputs to hook up to an aftermarket amp/sub. When you hook up the aftermarket sub, I advise to disconnect the factory Bose sub. Dig into the console and unplug the Bose amp's C2 (8 pin) connector, then pull the DARK BLUE/WHITE, DARK GREEN, LIGHT BLUE/BLACK, LIGHT GREEN/BLACK wires out of the connector, then plug the C2 connector back in. This will disconnect the factory Bose sub.

Edited by Firetiger(MN)
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