Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For those of you who have installed a 2nd set, how did you attach them? Did you drill into the bed or did you use something like 3M VHB tape? Thanks!

I cyt through my bedrug and then screwed into bedside.

Posted

I cyt through my bedrug and then screwed into bedside.

Thanks. Did you do anything to the holes to prevent paint damage and rust?

Posted

OK two questions from reading this thread.

 

1. For a second set of lights how do you power them? Plug into the same harness by the spare tire?

 

2. For adding a second switch for the lights is there a really simple and neat way to get this accomplished too?

Posted (edited)

OK two questions from reading this thread.

 

1. For a second set of lights how do you power them? Plug into the same harness by the spare tire?

 

2. For adding a second switch for the lights is there a really simple and neat way to get this accomplished too?

1) no, you can only plug one harness into that plug. I went ahead and spliced into the original lights. Did that right behind the tail lights so it would be easy access.

 

2) I'm not sure cause I haven't added a second switch.

 

 

Thanks. Did you do anything to the holes to prevent paint damage and rust?

No I did not. I just used a self tapping screw.

 

Didn't really think to do anything to prevent rust or paint damage cause I wasn't sure what to do for that.

Edited by Mike1220
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just installed my second set of OEM LED lights under the bed rail "truck came factory with one set". Also just got my truck back from installing a Line-X bed liner with sealer. Second set makes a huge difference and even outs the light in the bed.

Before

Before 2

After

After 2

  • Like 1
Posted

Just installed my second set of OEM LED lights under the bed rail "truck came factory with one set". Also just got my truck back from installing a Line-X bed liner with sealer. Second set makes a huge difference and even outs the light in the bed.

 

How did rig up the second set? Did you just splice into those ones that were already installed?

 

Rick

Posted

How did rig up the second set? Did you just splice into those ones that were already installed?

 

Rick

 

Yes, I spliced into existing set or wires behind the taillights. Install was very easy, I solderer the spliced wires together and then used heat shrink to seal the wires.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I too spliced two GM sets together on my 2013. I soldered the red and black wires together, and used heat shrink wrap to seal up the splices. Worked very well..

 

1010545_742451065767983_141971304_n.jpg

Edited by 2013sierrasle
Posted

I too spliced two GM sets together on my 2013. I soldered the red and black wires together, and used heat shrink wrap to seal up the splices. Worked very well..

 

Yes tis is the way to go... I also did this very same thing... many have. Works great.

Posted

I too spliced two GM sets together on my 2013. I soldered the red and black wires together, and used heat shrink wrap to seal up the splices. Worked very well.. 1010545_742451065767983_141971304_n.jpg

How did you get the heat shrink tube on the splice? Or did you use heat shrink tape?

Posted

I slid the heat shrink tube down the wire prior to soldering, then after soldering the connection, slid the shrink tube over the connection and heated it up.

  • Like 2
Posted

I slid the heat shrink tube down the wire prior to soldering, then after soldering the connection, slid the shrink tube over the connection and heated it up.

I'm guessing you disconnected the existing wires to be able to slide the shrink tubing on? Sorry for my dumbness lol.

Posted

For those of you that have spliced in a second set of oem lights, are there mounting points already from the factory for them? How did you mount them?

Posted

For those of you that have spliced in a second set of oem lights, are there mounting points already from the factory for them? How did you mount them?

If you are mounting a second set forward from the original location then you will have to drill your own holes. just be careful and use a sharp drill bit.

Posted

If you are mounting a second set forward from the original location then you will have to drill your own holes. just be careful and use a sharp drill bit.

Ok sounds good just gotta figure out if I really need the second set. I have a tono cover am not sure if one set will do it. I don't need it to be lit up like the 4th of July but I'd like enough light to be able to see to the front

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 500 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...