Jump to content

Changing rim size?


mikea57

Recommended Posts

Posted

My baby needs new shoes. It's an '07 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab with the Vortec Max engine in it. I'm running 285/60R20 Cooper Discoverer S/T's on it with a Rough Country 3 1/2" lift. Due to some rubbing problems I'm considering changing the rims out from stock to something with an offset and maybe widening the stance of the truck. I do have rubbing on the right fender well when I turn hard right too so that is a factor as well.

 

I'm thinking that I might go down in size from 20" to 18" but I'm wondering if there are any benefits in changing to smaller rims? 20" tires are bit more pricey than the smaller sizes so that would be one benefit, (but I don't think I'd save enough to cover the cover the cost of new rims!). Except for a modest savings on the tires then, and getting an offset to widen the stance and reduce rubbing, is there any reason for me to change or not to change rim size? How much offset or backpacing would work on my truck. I've read some of the articles I've found on the subject but I'm still not 100% clear on the concept.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Posted

I can't help with offset but a smaller wheel will usually have more tire choices and less costly choices to boot. More tire sidewall will soften the ride a bit as would the reduction of unsprung weight by going to a smaller wheel. Maybe a fractional savings on gas. But that's a big maybe.

Posted

Less offset = more rubbing and a decrease in wheel diameter will do nothing to help and only hurt the looks IMO. There's a reason people can get away with running larger tires on factory wheels and that's the ultra conservative offset and width. You need smaller tires.

Posted

Well, I was thinking in the other direction with the offset Blackout. I don't know though about hurting the looks. The wheels just look so BIG on that truck. I kind of thought that a shade smaller might look better. Most of those trucks are running 17s & 18s. Heck, even my spare is a 17 so something must have gotten upgraded at some point...

Posted

Your factory wheels have a + offset of 31. If you want them to stick out more you're going to need less offset. 0 and down into the negative range is where you'll need to go and that will not help your situation. And just FYI all spares come in 17.

Posted

Thanks for replying Blackout. I'm sorry but I don't quite understand. If I am rubbing against the wheel well now with stock rims, why would going to a lesser offset not prevent this? The tire is sticking out farther from the wheel well so why would this not prevent the rubbing? From what I understand, a negative offset will push the mounting surface towards the rear of the tire, right? That is going to make the tire stick farther outside of the wheel well like you said. Wouldn't that put the back side of the tire further away from the wheel well? What part am I missing?

Posted

You are correct. However the offset is not your problem. Your tires are too big. Guys can get away running larger tires on factory wheels than they can on aftermarket. This is due to width in some cases but typically backspacing. As you push your wheels outward it will cause the tires to rub primarily on the rear outside bottom edge of your fender. This is very common and a lot of guys cut the metal out of the fender behind the fender liner as a result. Unless you just want new wheels, it's not worth the cost. I would trim.

Posted
You are correct. However the offset is not your problem. Your tires are too big. Guys can get away running larger tires on factory wheels than they can on aftermarket. This is due to width in some cases but typically backspacing. As you push your wheels outward it will cause the tires to rub primarily on the rear outside bottom edge of your fender. This is very common and a lot of guys cut the metal out of the fender behind the fender liner as a result. Unless you just want new wheels, it's not worth the cost. I would trim.

Good example for you. I ran 305 70r16 maxxis mudders on my stock rims with no rubbing. Had just a 2.5" leveling kit then. I now have 4" of lift and 18x9 -12 offset wheels with much smaller 285 60r18 nittos and had to hammer my inner fenders back and still rub in reverse.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Posted

mikea57, I agree, 20's and 22's look too ghetto on a truck in my opinion. 17's and 18's look more in proportion.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL.    And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it. 
    • Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab.  I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush).  A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue.  Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive.  He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft.  I am not sure what else I can do.  Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?
    • This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy.  No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot.  Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.
    • Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.
    • Doesn't hurt to try.  It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean.  Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues.      I remember  a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot.  I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...