Jump to content

Toyo AT2's, not many size options.

LaserBlueZ71

By LaserBlueZ71
in Tires, Wheels & TPMS

Recommended Posts

LaserBlueZ71 Enthusiast

LaserBlueZ71

Posted
Posted

So, I have decided on my lift, the 4 inch Rancho, it is on the way, already have the RS9000XL shocks in the garage.

 

I have decided on these wheels. They are 18X9 with a +18 offset.

 

http://www.customwheeloffset.com/images/538-5-2011-sierra-2500hd-gmc-leveling-kit-mayhem-chaos-chrome-aggressive-1-outside-fender.jpg

 

Now, for the problem. I have decided on the Toyo AT2 tire, however, as far as sizes in the 33 inch category go, Toyo really screwed up here. It's either too small or too big for 18 inch sizes. They have a few sizes that are 33., but they are a very narrow tire, 275/70R18. I don't want a very narrow tire with a lift kit that nets about 5.5 inches, I can only imagine how weird that would look. What I want is a 295/65R18, which they do not offer. So, these are my only two choices to keep the looks up.

 

Size 1: 285/65R18 - Toyo shows as 32.6 inches

 

Size 2: 325/60R18 - Toyo shows as 33.3 inches.

 

My concern with the 325s is rubbing at full lock, and fuel mileage. 325 seems like a VERY wide tire to me, and I have my doubts that it wouldn't rub something at full lock. The 285's seem that they would not be wide enough, and leave me with the narrow tire, truck lifted too high for it's tires look.

 

I do a LOT of driving. I use this truck as my daily driver, and I also take road trips every year to go see my family which is 2 Provinces over. While I understand you can't have your cake and eat it too with a lifted truck, I do need to try and keep the MPG loss down to a minimum. I have opted to stay with 33's in order to avoid installing new gears. I don't want to go any bigger than this because I don't want headaches.

 

So, any suggestions?

 

Thanks all.

uh6tdrvr Enthusiast

uh6tdrvr

Posted
Posted

If you wanted a size options you shouldn't have went with a 18 inch wheel. 17's have the most options.just look through what toyo offers for sizes I have 275 70 18's and side by side the biggest difference is the height of the 270. Its nearly a full inch taller and about a finger n as il from being as wide. 285 lists at 32.6 x 11.5 and the 270 is 33.2 x 11. If you are wanting a 33 12.5 then go to 17's or 20's.

Sounds like you picked the wrong wheels

LaserBlueZ71 Enthusiast

LaserBlueZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not a fan of 20 inch wheels. 20's with 33's does not leave a lot of sidewall meat, and that's the look I am going for. 17 inch wheels severly limit options for larger brakes, which I intend to do in the future. Also, 17's with 33's is too much sidewall. I believe the happy medium is 18's, although it would seem they are being phased out. Almost every new vehicle these days seems to be coming equipped with 20's.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

+18 offset? You could probably go to an offset of -12 and keep it around a 33 and you shouldnt rub. My 16" M/T Classic II's had an offset of -22 with 285/75r16's on them. Only trimmed a little bit but no rubbing.

 

He may not be able to go to a 17" due to the caliper size (possibly)

 

EDIT: They come with 20's for brake cooling purposes because the brakes are getting bigger. It also costs more for a bigger wheel size tire so I think this is how they are sneaking into our wallet and taking our money haha

LaserBlueZ71 Enthusiast

LaserBlueZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

+18 offset? You could probably go to an offset of -12 and keep it around a 33 and you shouldnt rub. My 16" M/T Classic II's had an offset of -22 with 285/75r16's on them. Only trimmed a little bit but no rubbing.

 

He may not be able to go to a 17" due to the caliper size (possibly)

 

EDIT: They come with 20's for brake cooling purposes because the brakes are getting bigger. It also costs more for a bigger wheel size tire so I think this is how they are sneaking into our wallet and taking our money haha

Tire pricing is one big factor that keeps me looking at 18's. It may vary, but in my location, 20's are quite a bit more expensive than 18's, even though the overall diameter is the same, which means less rubber!

 

To get back on the 325/60R18s for a moment, is anyone here running these? I just wonder how much of a dump my MPG would take with that much ground contact. Each tire weighs in at 64 pounds for that size.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      That's interesting, I assume that would add to the cost of the oil but also I was forgetting to bring up the issue of the low tension rings allowing more oil past which in turn forces the cats to have more oil additives pass through them that wouldn't otherwise so they are creating that problem and of course its all in the name of fuel economy. Mind you the other issue would be the lack of additives that fight the formation of carbon within the piston ring grooves which turn the engine into an oil burner and with in this GM forums case is your average off the shelf Dexos licensed oil, meanwhile the other off the shelf oil being Valvoline's R&P isn't licensed and the only one that is which is that certain Mobil oil that came out recently ( its not even being marketed in Canada ) and only a fraction of vehicle owners are going to be using it out of all the other oils on the shelf or the quickie lube bay that meet the Dexos spec by way of actual licensing.    Also I suspect that its an easy excuse to pool the non turbo DI engines in with the turbo DI engines and design the oil to not have LSPI issues in the most demanding engines and short change the naturally aspirated DI by not offering a higher concentration of additive package they could handle and still not be at risk of LSPI.    I wonder if Amsoil flipped the switch just lately and did whatever packaging designation at the same time as I wonder what oil formulation I would have bought in May, of course I don't know when it was packaged at the factory vs how long it was in storage at the Edmonton warehouse. I know its been said at least in the past that the big players switch over to a reformulated oil but the packaging has not changed until they make that move as well so there is that cross over time where its a new formulation in a predated formula marked package. 
    • PunchT37
      OCI, not when but why?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Hmm. A real reason to not just use the odometer to determine OCI?    
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • StingerZ16
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By StingerZ16 · Posted

      I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...