Jump to content

Rear axle, 3.08 vs. 3.42 Explaining the difference


WhiteMike

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm in the market for the 2014 Sierra SLT. I have found a truck which includes all of the options I am looking for, but I realized it has a 3.08 rear axle ratio, instead of the 3.42 I normally see. Can someone please explain to me in laymen terms the difference and exactly how it factors in? I do plan on pulling a 24' boat and I just want to make sure I have enough power. How important is the difference of 3.08 vs 3.42? Even noticeable?

 

Thanks in advance.

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

If deciding for the boat(right away I would choose 3.42), what is the weight of the boat and type of terrain it will be towed on?

Posted

I actually think most of the trucks - especially earlier builds - had the 3.08

 

I think this because I actually traded in y 3.08 2014 SLT on a 3.42 all terrain model because it felt neutered.

 

The gear ratio makes a whopping .6 second difference to 60mph

 

Get the 3.42 no matter what, it does lose 1 mpg but who gives a shit its a truck

Posted

I drove a 3.42 truck and it felt neutered. Not sure why? The 5.3 has numbers on par with my 6.0 stock for stock and I have a 4 speed 3.42

Posted

If you have a boat to pull, get the 3.42. Drive them both, you will feel the difference. I'm sure your dealer has at least one of each for you to try out.

 

Mike

Posted

I'm in the market for the 2014 Sierra SLT. I have found a truck which includes all of the options I am looking for, but I realized it has a 3.08 rear axle ratio, instead of the 3.42 I normally see. Can someone please explain to me in laymen terms the difference and exactly how it factors in? I do plan on pulling a 24' boat and I just want to make sure I have enough power. How important is the difference of 3.08 vs 3.42? Even noticeable?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Its all about torque multiplication. The 3.42 is going to have more towing power (torque to the rear wheels) than the 3.08.

If your boat weighs more than about 5K, I would not want to be towing it with a 3.08.

Posted

get the 3.42... and get the SLT loaded. Too many guys on here wishing they had this.. or had that after the fact. And the 3.42 is a common one....

Posted

That's all I needed to hear.... I'm going to wait until the 3.42 comes available with all the options I am wanting. I'd estimate the boat is @ 4 - 5000 lbs. I live down here in Texas with relatively flat terrain except when I plan on pulling the boat to East, Tx where there are hills.

 

I'm not concerned about losing the 1 mpg. Heck, I'm coming from an old 2005 2500HD gas which avg. 12 mpg.

 

3.42 it is! Thanks guys.

Posted

I drove a 3.42 truck and it felt neutered. Not sure why? The 5.3 has numbers on par with my 6.0 stock for stock and I have a 4 speed 3.42

Cuz you have a well broken in, bolted, tuned truck and you're comparing it to a factory fresh, bone stock, 2014 w/ all the torque mgmt dialed in.

 

These trucks are substantially more powerful throughout the rpm range compared to the old 5.3, and are comparable if not slightly ahead of the 6.0 you mention considering the tranny and direct injection.

 

I can wait to get a solid tune on mine

Posted

It felt weaker than my 4.8/4L60/3.42 did. But this 14 I drove was the day after my friend bought it. It just felt weak. Hard to explain

Posted

It had balls, but felt like it was shooting blanks. Best way I can describe it. It wanted to move, but was restricted. Too much TM maybe

Posted

It probably felt weak because the initial throttle sensitivity is really dialed back, I think to help with mpg. It works great when trying to keep it in V4 mode while cruising, but to make it really run you have to put your foot way down in it...then she will run.

 

It takes a few minutes for me to adjust after driving my truck all week and then I hop in my wife's SUV...I'm almost peeling out because the pedal is way more sensitive.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder as well, why they would send me a text message with links to these suggested procedures totalling over $10,000 without even the slightest hint of how they arrived at these being necessary.
    • https://precisionlubrication.com/articles/oil-filter-efficiency/     For them it is a problem of $$$$ and compliance. To cover both they have to lie from the heart.    Government wants low waste oil numbers so the bar needs to be very low on contamination to met that requirement.  Consumer wants cheap maintenance (perceived cost). Again requiring a low bar.  OEM wants high margins at a cost effective warranty rate and lots of repeat customers. More low bar.  Filter manufacture wants the same thing the OEM wants. See the pattern?   Consumers are fickle and also want perfection requiring a HIGH bar. Inconsistent with all of the above. Consumers can be, when the put their minds to it, inquisitive, love winning arguments which requires some useful information to be available to support them. And this is where it gets sticky and the lies begin.    Information needs a solid well grounded point of reference if we are to compare in a useful way. There is a standard for this.  ISO 4548-12. This standard sets the particle size at a specific Beta ratio and darn few are faithful to its intent.    If they don't state the test method they change the particle size or the Beta ratio to hit a perceived favorable standard. They obscure the information in a way as to prevent direct comparisons leaving the consumer with one method. UOA's with an ISO 4406 test result. Pricey and not allot of labs willing to do the work. Lobby work happens everywhere, not just at the seat of government.       
    • IF,IF,IF. If they cared about quality instead of profit and this applies to any company, what a concept. 
    • Good Morning Gents..hope everyone is enjoying a beautiful saturday morning. I have a 2001 GMC Sierra that I bought used in 2018. I am the 2nd owner and its a beautiful truck. Ive put about 60,000 miles on it and recently the front end has felt funny. Kind of loose when hitting bumps adn sometimes I actually feel a "bang" in the steering wheel. I took it to a local guy who said that everything was tight and he tightened the steering box. It didnt feel much better, so I had him replace the front shocks, which had noto been done since I bought it. It had the check enging light on so I took it into a local garage to fix that and check out the suspension. Everything is original and the rubber bushings that I can see look bad. They said everything was tight and there wasnt any play in the front end. Im concerned about the banging feeling in the wheel. Ive been driving this truck for 8 years, so I know how it usually feels and this is something new. Its a second vehicle, so I dont drive it all the time, but Im trying to use it more often. I live out in the country and some of the  roads are kind of rough and I alive on gravel roads. Anyone deal with anything like this before? 
    • Yes of course. There’s no experience in the Trump organization in hiring contractors. it’s not like they’re experienced in that field.😆
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...