Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

On my Duramax i finished building and testing now it's installed. My version of the cargo light on in drive also has reverse lights tied in. It stays on without having to hold the button down.20260513_145524.thumb.jpg.5bd2bea03934bc05cb80ff83d6f594cc.jpg

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

 

21 hours ago, Buckwild27 said:

I bought it a trailer 

every truck needs a companion

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Posted
Just now, StingerZ16 said:

 

every truck needs a companion

Indeed it does. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Installed sport bar and tonneau cover got rained on mid project too.20260609_181321.thumb.jpg.b51170fb018318ba0d0fb46d1d24f9bf.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.

PXL_20260721_231343854.thumb.jpg.989945b9f75d39d212df2a885f04c474.jpgPXL_20260721_231359871.thumb.jpg.4289b0530cfc381788a5f13ddb7f5b90.jpg

 

I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.

 

Peace

 

Edited by mysery1
Posted

After nearly 3 years of waiting I finally got rid of the chrome wheels.  They were just too much.  

 

Next are the factory running boards.  Very functional and sturdy but too bulky and they stick way out.  Just my opinion anyway.

20240706_120012.jpg

20260603_121240.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted
On 7/21/2026 at 9:14 PM, mysery1 said:

I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.

PXL_20260721_231343854.thumb.jpg.989945b9f75d39d212df2a885f04c474.jpgPXL_20260721_231359871.thumb.jpg.4289b0530cfc381788a5f13ddb7f5b90.jpg

 

I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.

 

Peace

 

The rotor couldn't be turned so I replaced it. Installed new pads on both sides and called it a day.

 

Peace

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,290 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...