Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

A 1000 ohm resistor works to trick the light sensor. Only problem is your truck thinks its always daylight so your interior dash lights and radio/nav screen with stay bright as f*** (day mode) all night with no dim ability. Also, the green backlighting around the hvac controls does not come on in daytime mode.

Where do you place the resistor?
Posted (edited)

Where do you place the resistor?

Keep in mind, this will not disable your drl, this will disable your auto night lights feature. If you have a U.S truck, this will allow you to turn your low beams off while driving at night. For 2014 - 2015 Canadian trucks this mod is pretty pointless, unless you have already done the pin swap mod or some other mod to disable the drl.

Unplug the photocell but leave it installed in the dash, push the two pins of the resistor into two of the slots on the connector. There are actually three slots/wires in the connector so there are three combinations you need to try. Put your truck in drive, put the parking brake on, with the lights on "auto" your low beam and parking lamp should be on. You need to see which one of the three combinations turns off the parking lamps (because they're off in day mode). If you have already disabled your drl's then the parking lamps and low beams will turn off. Put tape around the connector and resistor so it doesnt fall out, tuck it into the dash and you're done.

Edited by mattblackout
Posted

Keep in mind, this will not disable your drl, this will disable your auto night lights feature. If you have a U.S truck, this will allow you to turn your low beams off while driving at night. For 2014 - 2015 Canadian trucks this mod is pretty pointless, unless you have already done the pin swap mod or some other mod to disable the drl.

Unplug the photocell but leave it installed in the dash, push the two pins of the resistor into two of the slots on the connector. There are actually three slots/wires in the connector so there are three combinations you need to try. Put your truck in drive, put the parking brake on, with the lights on "auto" your low beam and parking lamp should be on. You need to see which one of the three combinations turns off the parking lamps (because they're off in day mode). If you have already disabled your drl's then the parking lamps and low beams will turn off. Put tape around the connector and resistor so it doesnt fall out, tuck it into the dash and you're done.

Great info, thank you. On my 2015 Canadian Silverado there are 5 wires in a six slots connector for light sensor. I will try to find which two I need to short out with the resistor.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

In the under the hood it is not a fuse but Number 59 Relay. Taking it out doesnt work. They still go on! All this safety BS is for the Toads who tow Fifth wheels!

Remember HE ASKED WHERE THE FUSE IS DORKS!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have a 2014 silverado. I would like to have the GMC style with LED's. Does anyone know if it is possible / compatible to install the GMC light fixture on a Chevrolet? If not is there a third party product availble to acomplish this. I have looked but cannot find one.

 

Posted

I have a 2014 silverado. I would like to have the GMC style with LED's. Does anyone know if it is possible / compatible to install the GMC light fixture on a Chevrolet? If not is there a third party product availble to acomplish this. I have looked but cannot find one.

 

 

It's not possible. The grill, fenders, bumper, hood, and bumper filler are different between the GMC and Chevy.

Posted

 

It's not possible. The grill, fenders, bumper, hood, and bumper filler are different between the GMC and Chevy.

 

Thanks for the quick answer....

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Ok it's really easy there's a plug on your headlight just under the battery I believe the wire you want is gray but I'm not sure you will need a test light the yellow one in that plug will make you think you can use it but don't so with parking lights on test that plug there's like 5 wires on it 2 of the wires will be hot with the parking lights on but don't use Yellow tie in to the gray I think it is and that's your trigger pin 86 on a relay pin 30 goes to your + battery pin 85 battery ground pin 87 will be your new head light feed so here's what I did pull the bulb cover off and drilled a small hole just to the right of the round cover cut the red wire going to the headlight bulb and that's where 87 will tie into make sure to tape the other end of the red wire so it don't short your bcm

Punctuation and the enter key would help your posts read a lot better instead of one long rambling post - just sayin'

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I found on a 2015 Silverado 1500 that the BCM controls the DRL from two separate connectors - One says BK - I assume that is black - the other says BN - I assume that is brown.

 

Both DRL supply voltage are on pin 7 of their respective connectors.

 

BN is right - BK is left.

 

Right Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color D-BU/BN - Is that dark blue/brown?

 

Left Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color GY/D-BU - is that grey/dark blue?

 

If we cut or pull these from the BCM connector - will this effectively delete DRL from the headlights?

BCM Connector Left DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Right DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Left DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Right DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Left DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Right DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Left DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Right DLR.tiff

Edited by steveneddy
Posted

Seriously?

Seriously? WTF? There's no "G" on the plug. I know where it's supposed to be on the plug but the SLE (which I had at the time) doesn't have the last pins like the SLT. When this was posted (in '14) there wasn't a whole lot of knowledge on these plugs and this subject for DRL's on SLT vs. SLE for the '14's as just pulling the fuse on the GMT-900's. Seems you're coming on the forum to knock members posts and "so called" lack of typing skills towards member baking83. Dude really??? Seems you don't know much yourself after 2 years by all the questions from yourself. You did however pick the right avatar though...

Posted

Seriously? WTF? There's no "G" on the plug. I know where it's supposed to be on the plug but the SLE (which I had at the time) doesn't have the last pins like the SLT. When this was posted (in '14) there wasn't a whole lot of knowledge on these plugs and this subject for DRL's on SLT vs. SLE for the '14's as just pulling the fuse on the GMT-900's. Seems you're coming on the forum to knock members posts and "so called" lack of typing skills towards member baking83. Dude really??? Seems you don't know much yourself after 2 years by all the questions from yourself. You did however pick the right avatar though...

You're the first girl I have encountered on this forum. Go make someone a sandwich.

Posted

I found on a 2015 Silverado 1500 that the BCM controls the DRL from two separate connectors - One says BK - I assume that is black - the other says BN - I assume that is brown.

 

Both DRL supply voltage are on pin 7 of their respective connectors.

 

BN is right - BK is left.

 

Right Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color D-BU/BN - Is that dark blue/brown?

 

Left Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color GY/D-BU - is that grey/dark blue?

 

If we cut or pull these from the BCM connector - will this effectively delete DRL from the headlights?

 

This would be great if you could pull these out of the plug and run them to some add-on LED's. I like the idea of DRL but don't like them using the main headlights. Does anyone know if this socket is the same on a 2014?

Posted

 

This would be great if you could pull these out of the plug and run them to some add-on LED's. I like the idea of DRL but don't like them using the main headlights. Does anyone know if this socket is the same on a 2014?

 

I found the wiring for a 2014 here. Pages 42-45

 

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf

 

Does anyone know if I can take the DRL pins out of the plugs and use those wires for some add-on LED's? And would the headlights still operate as normal?

Posted

I found on a 2015 Silverado 1500 that the BCM controls the DRL from two separate connectors - One says BK - I assume that is black - the other says BN - I assume that is brown.

 

Both DRL supply voltage are on pin 7 of their respective connectors.

 

BN is right - BK is left.

 

Right Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color D-BU/BN - Is that dark blue/brown?

 

Left Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color GY/D-BU - is that grey/dark blue?

 

If we cut or pull these from the BCM connector - will this effectively delete DRL from the headlights?

 

These are the plugs that are under the dash , correct ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RichardRS
    Newest Member
    RichardRS
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 805 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well that book won't sell many copies. Taking ones right foot off the loud pedal never gets applause. Funny really, It isn't that people don't know what to do...they just don't want to do it. But they will complain about it. About bad craftsmanship, about the cost of fuel, about the cost of part and repairs and mainly they complain that the solution while still possible isn't one they are willing to do.    I observe this daily. 'Gas cost to much!", they wail, while they mat it passing at 80+ mpg and scoot down the road like gas cost a dime a gallon. Then complain about the few that will lift and save both fuel and iron like they are owed and own the road.    Good thing they haven't an ounce of influence on my equipment. The rest I just laugh at. Stupid is as stupid does, right Forest?     
    • Today I filled up with 4.899 gallons of fuel at a cost of $4.899 a gallon. $24 bucks. 290 miles. 59.2 mpg. After my 4% COSTCO discount just under eight cents a mile.  
    • Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...