Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Thought I would share what I did. I know it isnt what others are trying to achieve, however some people may be interested. I have a GMC with the LED daytime running lights. I wanted to be able to run just the LED strip with my fog lights. However on Canadian trucks it would turn on the automatic headlights. So to get rid of the automatic headlights, I removed the upper dash piece where you see the sensor. I unglugged the harness from the sensor bulb and added a resistor. This in turn disabled my automatic headlights allowing me to run the LED strip and fog lights whenever I want-Even at night if i disire.

I have no desire to disable the daytime running lights since I have the LED strip. Just wanted to get rid of the automatic headlights.

so you didnt want the auto night lights. so you must turn your low beam on maunaly when it gets dark? Edited by mattblackout
  • Like 1
Posted

so you didnt want the auto night lights. so you must turn your low beam on maunaly when it gets dark?

 

That is correct. That way I can control what I want on anytime day or night.

Posted

 

That is correct. That way I can control what I want on anytime day or night.

But you still can not control your LED strip (DRL) correct? They are always on?
Posted (edited)

Has anyone used a low pass filter to eliminate the pwm signal for DRL? I've been thinking about this for a while but haven't executed it yet. Should be faulty fairly simple with the right capacitor and resistor.

Edited by xtremespeed2102
Posted

When you say "in P" i assume you mean the light switch is on parking light (one click to the right). In this setting, while driving, both conditions are being met (power from parking lamps and power from oem low beam wire) so how would you drive with only parking lamp?

Lets step back and talk about the stock oem functionality. Because i think we have different situations. In USA silverados, when you shift into drive the low beams come on right. so here is my questions, can you be driving along (in daylight) and turn your low beams off with your light switch? and can you choose to run parking lights only while driving? because In Canada we dont have that option. We can not turn our low beams off unless we are in park. The light switch will not turn off low beams while in gear. so there is no way for us to run prkining lights only unless we do the pin swap.

 

On my truck in "P" my low beams are never on.

Posted

 

On my truck in "P" my low beams are never on.

cool, so you can leave your switch on "P" and the low beams will not come on when you shift into drive?

Posted

cool, so you can leave your switch on "P" and the low beams will not come on when you shift into drive?

 

Correct. I do it in drive-thru's all the time and pulling into my driveway or when near neighbor's houses at night.

Posted

I just completed the relay mod yesterday. It cost me all of $20 for a waterproof relay. I tapped into the parking light power and used it to signal the relay. The relay simply completes or opens the circuit between my factory low beam signal and the HID kit relays. Everything now works like stock Auto, Off, Parking, Parking & Headlights, the only difference is that the DRL's never come on.

 

The best part is without DRL's I've now been able to get rid of my capacitor thus simplifying the setup. And now I'm not cycling my expensive HID's everytime I start the truck and go from drive to park.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just completed the relay mod yesterday. It cost me all of $20 for a waterproof relay. I tapped into the parking light power and used it to signal the relay. The relay simply completes or opens the circuit between my factory low beam signal and the HID kit relays. Everything now works like stock Auto, Off, Parking, Parking & Headlights, the only difference is that the DRL's never come on.

 

The best part is without DRL's I've now been able to get rid of my capacitor thus simplifying the setup. And now I'm not cycling my expensive HID's everytime I start the truck and go from drive to park.

What wire was it for the parking lights?
Posted

What wire was it for the parking lights?

 

It's a purplish pink wire with a stripe if I recall correctly. It's also very thin since it only carries current for the parking lamps-I think it was 20 awg. It's probably easier to identify it as the wire that connects to the fat yellow wire on the other side of the plug (the headlight plug). Anyways I cut the wire, joined it with an 18 awg wire to signal my relay using a butt splice and heat shrink.

 

I should add you only need 1 relay if you have an HID kit as most HID kits are single input for signal. Because I'm switching the signal wire going to the HID relays I'm not really load carrying so I'm not affecting voltage drop by using one relay/circuit.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...