Jump to content

Trans fluid change?

sdeeter19555

Recommended Posts

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

I'm thinking of dropping the pan, changing the filter, and maybe installing a new pan this spring (6L90E?), but before I do this myself; are there any adjustments that are required? This is my first HD auto in a long time, the last one was a Dodge 47RE (15 years ago) and there were two band adjustments that were made during a fluid change. But I have no idea if these modern autos have anything like that?

 

Can anyone point me to an aftermarket aluminum pan? I haven't even started looking, figured there has to be a favorite?

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I got right about 36k, but I tow and haul quite a bit. It kinda ironic...I have towed more with this gasser than I towed with my Cummins...no real reason, just happened. The Cummins had about 450hp, 6spd manual, and 4.10s...compared to a 6.0l, auto, and 3.73s. It gets the job done, that's all that matters.

 

I have always done mods to pans and covers to add capacity...had FastCoolers on the NV5600 and an ORU cover on my last truck...just seeing what is out there.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

 

 

  • 4 months later...
sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Couple questions...again, I've done autos before; but again this is my first GM, ever. I've got the truck up on the ramps (mainly to level it in my sloped driveway), I plan on tackling the fluid/filter change tomorrow night.

 

  • Is the gasket reusable on the newer trucks? It looks like it is? I can't find anything definitive...
  • Is the filter bolted down, or is it a slip fit deal? I searched U-Tube for a video, and couldn't find any on the 6L90E...it looks like GM likes the slip fit and o-ring?
  • Will the pan clear the crossover pipe? I imagine it will?
  • Is there a brand of off-the-shelf Dex VI that is preferred over another? I'm talking the typical store bought stuff, not the boutiques (e.g. Amsoil, Royal Purple, Red Line, etc.). I've got a quart of Valvoline Dex VI sitting on the shelf, but I know it was Castrol Dex VI that I used to top it off when I brought it home. I figure I'll do the transfercase (again) when I do the trans...I think that's what I bought the Valvoline for originally.

 

As you can tell, I'm into my maintenance time...

 

I already turn the torsion bolts up another three turns (six total), which has taken it about 3/4" over stock...keep in mind I have a second battery and winch/winch cradle. Its still touching the jounce stoppers (which are currently Timbrens, but they are not much taller than OE). I'm going to have it aligned next week, and have my Coopers installed.

 

I'm going to pull the front brakes and rotors, and grease the front wheel bearings through the ABS sensor hole...I did this before, on a Dodge, and it made a world of difference in the life of the bearing. I'm going to drain the front differential at the same time, gives me a reason to use some of my gear oils up.

 

I'm considering changing the plugs...I really think I have one or more plugs that aren't gapped right and that's what has caused my low RPM "chugging" since new. I'm going to pull them at least and check the gap...I assume the prefered flavor is Delco? What about Bosch, Autolite, or NGK?

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, I stopped by the dealer and bought the transmission filter "kit" from them, its a slip on/in affair. It was $55, but I figured that would be less than multiple trips to the local parts house to get the right filter since most don't list a filter for this trans. The gasket is reusable, so you only get a filter and o-ring in the kit. I'll stop on the way home for a case of Dex VI.

 

I also bought a set of Delco plugs at the same time...they were about $9/each, which is about the going rate for a iridium plug. Again, I'm thinking I have a plug issue that the dealer considered normal; although I've driven identical trucks without the same condition.

 

So depending on the weather tonight, I will either get at the transmission (not raining) or at the plugs (threatening rain)...

ujtruck Enthusiast

ujtruck

Posted
Posted

you can use old gasket,

but

clean arounds and use a new trans pan gasket, while you are removing/installing that pan do not hit on anything like solenoid etc...

 

now snug all transbolts to spec. or hand tight whatever. but don't overtight them. (just saying)

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well that's done. Took about an hour.

 

I sucked out most of the fluid through the dipstick tube before I dropped the pan...made for a cleaner pan drop. I reused the oe gasket. Took an old tooth brush to the gasket...road grime built up around the outside. I also shortcut and reused the sealing o-ring, it was still soft and supple. Normal amount of snot on the magnet.

 

I only had one snag, got the pan half bolted back up and realized the magnet was sitting on the bench. Doh. Put about 6.5qts of Castrol Dex VI to get it filled.

 

There was lots of room to pull the pan without loosening anything.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I thought about this a little more last night...

 

The reusable gasket is nice, I used a 1/4" ratchet, extensions, and 10MM socket to do the job. I found the pan bolts to be quite loose...some I could have removed with just the extension by hand (no ratchet). Considering Dodge liked to locktite every fastener like this (I twisted cover bolts off on the 11.50AAM in the last truck trying to get them out), I was both surprised and a little unnerved how loose they were. I used the 1/4" stuff mainly to ensure I didn't over-tighten the pan when I re-installed it...I basically ran the bolts in snug and gave them about an eighth of a turn which made them feel tight (I didn't lay on them, just ran them until they easily stopped). Again, I could probably loosen them with a nut runner, really don't need the leverage of a ratchet.

 

Although I watched a uTube video of the sealing o-ring being removed and installed, I'm not sure just how easy that would be laying on your back under the truck. I know I will need to do it next time, but I'm going to have to do some thinking about removing it...not sure a seal puller would work as its a ways up in the trans (not enough room to maneuver the puller). The install looks straight forward...push it home and seat it with a socket and hammer.

 

Once I make sure I have no leaks, I'm going to brush some used ATF into the seam between the pan and the trans to try to prevent corrosion of both mounting surfaces and the gasket itself...I have used these rubber-over-steel gaskets before, and had an issue where the steel portion of the gasket rusted, swelled, and made the gasket unusable.

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got the front differential changed tonight...old fluid drained clear, magnet had minimum fuzz. Used 75w140 Amsoil because I had it.

 

Also did a exchange on the power steering reservoir.

 

So far no leaks...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I imagine the cold winters up here with repeated short runs in town every day for those that live and work in town and given what I have come to learn on this forum with DI engines having fuel dilution issues, and if they don't change the oil until it says to but keep driving it for a while, I bet all that is just lovely on those finicky lifters. 
    • teamjnz
      AWD conversion to Z71

      By teamjnz · Posted

      I just did some reading and Stabilitrak is more than a what I had originally thought. It is more of a vehicle control system to help the driver in precarious situations. I thought it was only the AWD system. Now I know. So I changed the title for this thread to AWD conversion to Z71 
    • teamjnz
      AWD conversion to Z71

      By teamjnz · Posted

      Sounds like converting will be a bigger endeavor than I was thinking. This truck doesn't have 2Hi like the Suburban did. The Tahoe has 4Hi and 4Lo and a button to turn of traction control.   From what I understand the Stabilitrak uses open diff in the front and rear. When wheel speed is not the same the stabilitrak uses the ABS system to slowdown the spinning wheel(s) to transfer power to the slower non-spinning wheel(s). I thought the transfer case was open too. Being able to transfer power either more to front or rear depending on wheel spin. Maybe I miss understood some information with you saying and power transfer is 50-50. Thanks
    • PunchT37
      OCI, not when but why?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance.   BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...