Jump to content

Ball joint replacement options


Recommended Posts

Posted

I need to replace the ball joints on my truck, and I'm trying to weigh on some new options.

 

Should I just replace the ball joints, or is it worth the extra $ to replace the whole control arm as well? Rockauto has hard to beat prices, but I am slightly concerned with replacing the lower control arms because of the torsion bars.

 

Does anyone have a "Must have" list of things to replace on a truck with 255,000 miles?

 

Any tips appreciated.

 

Thanks

Posted

I'm planning on doing my entire front end when it needs it. I'm doing all the ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, and bushings.

Posted

You doing the ball joints, or the whole control arm? I like having the new bushings on the control arms, but just wonder if it's worth the effort messing with the trosion bars.

Posted

I'm planning on just the ball joints and pressing new bushings in. The torsion bars only take 20 minutes or so, and if you don't get the height perfect, you have to get an alignment anyways so the shop can get it dialed back in for you.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I wouldn't change control arms...why? Just change balls joints and tie rods. Check steering out as well...

Here's my thought:

 

RockAuto upper control arm (with new bushings and ball joint) $55

 

That way I wouldn't have to press any new bushings in....thinking that would save time. Might be worth the extra money.

 

I am going to plan on also doing all the tie-rod ends, and pitman arm, and idler arm.

Posted

I am planning on adding the Cognito arm support kit to mine. Cost $200 something I think. I think I put the cost of the whole project around $800.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

 

I wouldn't change control arms...why? Just change balls joints and tie rods. Check steering out as well...

 

 

Here's my thought:

 

RockAuto upper control arm (with new bushings and ball joint) $55

 

That way I wouldn't have to press any new bushings in....thinking that would save time. Might be worth the extra money.

 

I am going to plan on also doing all the tie-rod ends, and pitman arm, and idler arm.

 

Don't cheap out on front end parts you'll pay more in the end

Posted

My trucks have only received moog replacements. That's what's in mine now, Fab tec HD tie rods, cogito idler/pitman arm supports and HD sway bar end links. This summer I'm doing th full kryptonite sway bar kit. I also have billet center link as well...

Posted

The part I was referencing was the MOOG part #. The same part # from O'reillys was $125. I figured if I saved money buying it from RockAuto, I would allow myself to spend the extra money on better quality parts.

 

Ball joint and bushings for 1 side would be $50 from O'reilly's. For $5 more, I could get MOOG parts in a new control arm and not have mess with pressing in new parts if I order and wait for it to show up at my doorstep.

 

I think I'll start ordering some parts in this "cooler" weather, and be ready for install once the warm weather breaks.

Posted

That's not bad actually!! Why so cheap??? Usually a little more expensive than that!!

RockAuto takes out the middleman I suppose. What I usually do when looking for parts is go to O'reillys to get the part number of what I want, and then verify that RockAuto has it. 99 times out of 100 they have had the exact same part, and usually it is considerably less. O'reillys is great if you need the part RIGHT NOW, but some careful planning has saved my quite a bit lately.

 

The parts I looked up are the stock MOOG replacements. RockAuto also has a MOOG part with an upgraded bearing for $69, and it also has an offset bushing setup for an additional 2 degrees alignment for $96. Since my truck is stock suspension, didn't think I need extra adjustment. But I may spring for the upgraded bearing setup for longer life.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...