Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I don't remember the TSB number but just search these forums for "loud chime". There are a number of other threads talking about it.

  • 2 years later...
  • 9 months later...
  • 3 years later...
Posted

I’m amazed no one has a fix for this issue . Everything from turn key engine start chime to distancing sensor warning chime it is brutally loud even on the lowest chime volume setting. Can a GMC mechanic please give us an answer. 

Posted

Same problem here.  It is completely random with volume, hurts the ears and can be Embarrassing.  Sometimes it keeps chiming even while driving down the road?  For me it all started after a battery disconnect for a starter replacement.  It has acted up ever since.

 

I believe there is a TSB for the non Bose systems that may work. 

 

Also one person claimed that changing out the Bose amp behind the back seat would supposedly fix it.  IDK 

 

I was thinking of just disconnecting the wires to the front seatbelts just to see what would happen.  The maybe trying the Amp thing.

 

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 7/29/2024 at 3:51 PM, Texasdeere said:

I am so sick of this problem I'm pretty close to unplugging the speaker.

 

Did you read the posts above?

 

Buy a 3" rigid extender and leave it plugged into the seat part of the driver's seatbelt.  No chimes ever again and you can still use your seatbelt like normal.

Posted

I have a seatbelt thing already plugged in.  It's just the way I use the truck.  I like to open the door and start the truck before getting in sometimes.  Letting it run a little to warm up while I take the trash out in the morning.  Sometimes I get in leaving the door open to start letting the 150 degree air escape.  Sometimes I open the door before shutting off the truck to see if I pulled forward enough to clear the pillar with my door.  The chime on a low or normal volume doesn't bother me at all.  Disconnecting the LF speaker might just be a better compromise for me since I use the truck in such a dangerous manner. 

Posted
On 7/29/2024 at 3:51 PM, Texasdeere said:

I am so sick of this problem I'm pretty close to unplugging the speaker.

It's creepy when you unplug it.  I have the same issue.  Unplugged the speaker.  
You now also no longer have a click when the turn signal is on.  It's not a relay anymore, it's just a sound file the radio plays.  Plus the radio doesn't sound right. 

But mine was at concert volume on and off.   I had the radio updated at the dealer, that stopped it for a month or so, but in the last week it's back doing it again.   

Posted
On 8/4/2024 at 12:03 PM, Texasdeere said:

I have a seatbelt thing already plugged in.  It's just the way I use the truck.  I like to open the door and start the truck before getting in sometimes.  Letting it run a little to warm up while I take the trash out in the morning.  Sometimes I get in leaving the door open to start letting the 150 degree air escape.  Sometimes I open the door before shutting off the truck to see if I pulled forward enough to clear the pillar with my door.  The chime on a low or normal volume doesn't bother me at all.  Disconnecting the LF speaker might just be a better compromise for me since I use the truck in such a dangerous manner. 

 

Okay weird.  I have a 2015 and do the exact same things (especially starting with the door open), and with the seat extender plugged in I don't get any chimes at all.  That's why I suggested it for you.  Sorry it didn't work.

Posted

I appreciate the input.  It has been getting worse lately.  Now it is always loud every time.  It doesn't even step down like it used to.  It is so hot down here now I won't even get into my truck without rolling the windows down first.  Yesterday I had enough of it and unplugged the dash speaker.  Not having the turn signal tone will take some getting used to.  I don't hear high pitched or frequency sounds through my left ear so I may not notice the stereo sounding very different.

 

That being said, if I thought the dealer would be able to do something about it I would take it there and have the chime "programed out"  but I understand why they wouldn't.  

 

There is one more thing I may try in the future.  I read this on another website but I have never seen anyone else try or confirm that it actually works but it does sound feasible.  

 

From T and P on March 9th 2024 (Silverado Sierra Forums)

 

(If your chime volume control in the settings does not affect the volume, it's on lowest setting and still way too loud, your radio's amp is shot. These chimes are controlled through the amp. You need to remove the amp, note the part number and purchase a used one from Ebay. All of these other fixes are useless. The amp is mounted on the back cabin wall. To access you need to remove the larger half of the rear seat. It's an easy fix once you have the new amp. The rear seat is two sections, the short side and the long side. There are 2 10mm screws that hold the short and long section of seat frame together then about 5 nuts that hold the long section of seat frame to the floor. Remove these and lift the seat up and out toward the front, just enough to give you access to the rear wall of the cab. You will find the amp mounted on the wall right between where the two seats meet, covered by a layer of insulation. Unplug the old one, plug in the new one and then replace the seat. Your chime volume control will be restored.)

 

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 8/15/2024 at 8:05 AM, Texasdeere said:

I appreciate the input.  It has been getting worse lately.  Now it is always loud every time.  It doesn't even step down like it used to.  It is so hot down here now I won't even get into my truck without rolling the windows down first.  Yesterday I had enough of it and unplugged the dash speaker.  Not having the turn signal tone will take some getting used to.  I don't hear high pitched or frequency sounds through my left ear so I may not notice the stereo sounding very different.

 

That being said, if I thought the dealer would be able to do something about it I would take it there and have the chime "programed out"  but I understand why they wouldn't.  

 

There is one more thing I may try in the future.  I read this on another website but I have never seen anyone else try or confirm that it actually works but it does sound feasible.  

 

From T and P on March 9th 2024 (Silverado Sierra Forums)

 

(If your chime volume control in the settings does not affect the volume, it's on lowest setting and still way too loud, your radio's amp is shot. These chimes are controlled through the amp. You need to remove the amp, note the part number and purchase a used one from Ebay. All of these other fixes are useless. The amp is mounted on the back cabin wall. To access you need to remove the larger half of the rear seat. It's an easy fix once you have the new amp. The rear seat is two sections, the short side and the long side. There are 2 10mm screws that hold the short and long section of seat frame together then about 5 nuts that hold the long section of seat frame to the floor. Remove these and lift the seat up and out toward the front, just enough to give you access to the rear wall of the cab. You will find the amp mounted on the wall right between where the two seats meet, covered by a layer of insulation. Unplug the old one, plug in the new one and then replace the seat. Your chime volume control will be restored.)

 

 

 

I ended up troubleshooting a Cadillac back about 6 months ago that had the IO6 (Navigation, etc).  In his case, we tried a different HMI, it didn't fix it.  I had a spare radio module from my truck, we put it in, he hasn't had a problem since.  His was brutally loud!  I've got extra components though so we were able to swap (and program) until we found it to be the radio module in his case.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...