Jump to content

Question about a lift I just got?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, I got my lift kit tonight and the front spacers are about 1 1/4" and the blocks are 1 1/2"... Does that make it a 2.5" lift/level? If it does, it just doesn't make any sense... Can someone help me here, this will be my first lift!

Posted

I contacted the dude from ebay just now.... Maybe I can get this straightened out?

Posted

Your kit is right, when you put the block in for the front it will give you the lift you want. Look at it this way take a 2ft pipe hold one end of the pipe mark the pipe at the 12" mark now move the 12" mark up or down 1" now see how far the other end of the pipe moves. The leveling kit is right don't worry.

Posted

Oh cool! I bought an S10 years ago that had a 2" body lift on it and the spacers were actually 2". I get I was assuming that the strut spacers were supposed to be 2.5", since that's the kit I ordered? I will attempt to install this, this weekend. Thanks yall, I was worried!

Posted

Body lifts are the actual size because all they do is lift the body said amount of inches. The leveling kit lifts the front end by changing the angles everything is at. Someone did a writeup on here explaining it but the size of the spacer doubled is the amount of lift due to the change in front end geometry

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Body lifts are the actual size because all they do is lift the body said amount of inches.

Yeah, I thought about that, on my way to work, after posting it...

Posted

Yes these guys are correct. Front spacer measurement doubles the actual lift. So a 1.25" spacer gives you 2.5" of lift. Stock rear block measures 1.25". My kit came with a 2.25" rear block so it lifted the rear 1".

 

 

 

Posted

Stock rear block measures 1.25". My kit came with a 2.25" rear block so it lifted the rear 1".

Hmmmmm, the rear blocks that came with this kit are 1.50" So, that will raise it .50", will the truck look level or be sagging in the back? I hate that look...

Posted

Hmmmmm, the rear blocks that came with this kit are 1.50" So, that will raise it .50", will the truck look level or be sagging in the back? I hate that look...

 

I would just put the front in and leave it at that. Putting the new block in and taking the old stock block out is only going to give you .25" lift based on the difference between the two.

Posted

 

I would just put the front in and leave it at that. Putting the new block in and taking the old stock block out is only going to give you .25" lift based on the difference between the two.

Oops, that's what I meant, not .50"...

Posted

Put the front in and measure your fenders. Usually a 3" rear blocks give you 3/4"-1" of rake. I'm prob going to switch my 2.25" block out for a 3" just cuz I tow my boat all the time. And I also hate the rear end lower then the front. It reminds me of a truck with worn out saggy springs.

 

 

 

Posted

OK yall, I just got the front finished! Before measurement was 36.25" from floor to center of fender. After lift 39". I'm thinking if I drive it around the block, it might drop a little?

 

Back height at the moment is 38.50". I don't want a massive rake on it and I don't want it sagging bad when we pull our RV.

 

With some figuring I've done, I'm think a 3" block in the rear, as you suggested LTZ2014. As much as I hate to, I'm probably going to buy it locally, as I don't have an extra week to wait on new blocks from the ebay guy. I will post pics when all this is finished!

Posted

Well now that you leveled it you are going to sag in the rear when you hook up the RV that's why truck have the rake to them so they sit level with a load. But as said you could put the bigger block in the rear but you are going to right back to the stock stance again unless you air bag the rear http://www.airliftcompany.com/ which will let you pump the bags up to remove the rear sag with a load, just like old time air shocks.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...