Jump to content

Daryl Z71's 2006 Silverado Z71 Re-build

Daryl LBZ

By Daryl LBZ
in Member Build Threads

 Share

Recommended Posts

zach1990 Senior Enthusiast

zach1990

Posted
Posted

Looking good daryl. When can I drop mine off for the same treatments?

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

  • Replies 1.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Daryl LBZ
Daryl LBZ

On the way home now with a new to me L33 5.3L      

Daryl LBZ
Daryl LBZ

Well she's all hooked up an running. Great oil pressure compared to the old motor. Only problem is that the shift cable broke, and now I have to wait for a new one. Ugh! It's always something.    

Daryl LBZ
Daryl LBZ

Better night time picture.  

Posted Images

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

And it seems like you're coating the axle as well?

 

And I love seeing pics of the chassis, especially when we compare the modern ones to ours. They've been fully boxed instead of a C shape for some years now.

Yep, doing the axel too. I wish they would have done the boxed frame sooner, but oh well I guess.

 

 

Looking good daryl. When can I drop mine off for the same treatments?

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Haha thanks! You buy the parts I'll help with the work lol!

  • Like 1
Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I Installed a new Vapor Canister Vent Solenoid, and tailgate hinge yesterday. I picked up the tailgate hinge from the local dealer while I was out getting some 5/8" hose for the canister. It was a nice bonus that it was in stock. The Canister came from Rock Auto for $20. We'll see how long it lasts...

 

 

 

 

IMG_20140815_130858408_HDR_zps3a9f481d.j

 

 

IMG_20140815_130847145_zpsc7b261c3.jpg

 

IMG_20140815_151334862_zps7175f782.jpg

 

IMG_20140815_131017370_zps3238a8e8.jpg

 

IMG_20140815_131029060_HDR_zps75ab8e22.j

Singer-Man Enthusiast

Singer-Man

Posted
Posted

 

Good work, Sir.

 

I meant to ask you earlier...when you applied the Chassis Saver, how did you deal with the inside of the cylindrical cross-members that the shocks mount to?

 

(I'm sure you know that those are a well-known problem area due to the effects of rust on GM frames.).

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good work, Sir.

 

I meant to ask you earlier...when you applied the Chassis Saver, how did you deal with the inside of the cylindrical cross-members that the shocks mount to?

 

(I'm sure you know that those are a well-known problem area due to the effects of rust on GM frames.).

I got as far down inside of them as I could get with a brush. Not to much else I could do. I'm not even sure if a spray gun would hit all the way down inside there?

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I clean them out with water every time I wash the pickup. I've never seen them bad on the inside.

A coworker had an 01 Sierra with the rear one rusted out, but that's the only one I've heard of...

white1500 Senior Enthusiast

white1500

Posted
Posted (edited)

Have you thought about getting the plastic fender liners? That would help prevent salt and water spray to the underbody, along with making that area look cleaner.

Edited by white1500
Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Have you thought about getting the plastic fender liners? That would help prevent salt and water spray to the underbody, along with making that area look cleaner.

I've had them before on my 2011, and they were okay. I'll probably just undercoat the wheel wells, and keep the inside of the frame tubes washed out.

Singer-Man Enthusiast

Singer-Man

Posted
Posted

 

A coworker had an 01 Sierra with the rear one rusted out, but that's the only one I've heard of...

 

 

During the six months since I bought my Sierra I've been readying lots of forum threads. One of the popular topics has been GM frame rust and a fair number seem to point to those rear cross-members as a problem area, some have cited them as a design flaw, reporting broken shock brackets due to rust and even rotted-through areas on those tubes where salt and water tend to remain longer. (Some recounted tales of shock absorber pressures that punched dents into those badly rusted cross-members..probably due to lots of off roading.)

 

 

During my reading I discovered that there are a number of companies that re-manufacture GM frame parts, apparently one of their biggest sellers are those tubes, complete with shock brackets. (I also remember hearing of GM recalls and some frame replacements.)

 

Internet hearsay? Perhaps. That would be good.

 

I'm ready to start modding my newly acquired Sierra. It's one previous owner clearly treated it very politely, but it has begun to show a little frame rust; not as much as the one you’re working on, but I want to head it off at the pass.

 

At any rate I look forward to watching the progress of your project.

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks. I didn't know anyone made the replacement cross members. That might be good information later down the road or even to someone who's are shot now.

kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
Posted

The most important rule when it comes to things like hubcaps, fender liners, etc is that it's impossible to keep water and dust out. All you can do is keep it in. I think wheel well liners would do more harm than good because you wouldn't be able to wash out the sides and fenders fully.

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The most important rule when it comes to things like hubcaps, fender liners, etc is that it's impossible to keep water and dust out. All you can do is keep it in. I think wheel well liners would do more harm than good because you wouldn't be able to wash out the sides and fenders fully.

That's what I was thinking after a while of having them on my 2011. I was going to take them off, but traded it before I got around to it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...