Jump to content

Installation of Body Lift...DIY?


Recommended Posts

Posted
Is installing a 3" body lift on a '96 Chevy Tahoe something that a mechanically inclined person with decent tools could be expected to accomplish in his home garage withotu too much difficulty?
Posted
I installed one on a 92 K-5 Blazer I had. It's the same kit, I just had 2 extra spacers and bolts left over. It's not hard, just tedious. There are a lot of small steps involved.
Posted

Just did one on  a 95... maybe a 96? Oh well same install. It was a neighbors truck.  I've done a bunch before, but nothing tricky on this one. Follow the directions, and keep all the parts (old and new) in order or labeled. Some old nuts/bolts are reused.

 

KK

Posted
Just did one on  a 95... maybe a 96? Oh well same install. It was a neighbors truck.  I've done a bunch before, but nothing tricky on this one. Follow the directions, and keep all the parts (old and new) in order or labeled. Some old nuts/bolts are reused.

 

KK

He's right.  You'll save a lot of headaches by keeping parts labeled and organized.  When I did mine I set up two folding tables w/ several boxes of parts all labeled as to where they came from.

Posted

Shouldn't be that hard to do, just take your time and don't rush it.  I helped Jon (Chevy4x4trucks) install his and had a blast, truck even made it out ok also!!

 

Joe

Posted
I dont like the spaces between the body and frame. Things can get into their and rust and mess with your truck. Its just not cool. My friends and I are against body lifting. Yuck :D
Posted

That's why you put gap guards or lift lips on.  :thumb:   I don't see how anything different could get in between there before vs after the body lift.  :D   Unless it's a brick, or log, or something.  :seeya:  

 

Before gap guards:

 

lift_driv.jpg

 

After gap guards:

 

steps_lift2.jpg

 

gapguard_front.jpg

gapguard_rear.jpg

parkbrake_cable.jpg

bed_support2.jpg

Posted

Oh good you put the pics. I was going to mention them and also I have some pics of mine on my website at the bottom. I never got the gapguards before until this new truck. Keeps everything cleaner too!

 

KK

Posted
I dont like the spaces between the body and frame. Things can get into their and rust and mess with your truck. Its just not cool. My friends and I are against body lifting. Yuck :cheers:

Is that the reason?  Look in your wheelwell right now, even without a bodylift there is still a gap between the frame and the body all around.  I don't see how a bodylift makes it all that much worse.

 

And like they said before, throw on some gap gaurds and you're all set.

 

Plus the newer trucks still show less frame with a body lift than the old ones do stock.

Posted
hey guys! does anyone know where i can get a set of the gap guards for the sierra ? and are they hard to install? a friend of mine told me to go to home depot and just cut out some ? ghetto fabulous?
Posted

Most 4x4 shops should have or can get them. I got mine with the Performace Accessories lift kit from local shop. The gap guards don't have a manufacturer on the box? Cost around $55 or so. Work perfect and cover everything.

 

KK

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       
    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...