Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just spent a good amount of time reading these posts and wish I did so prior to purchasing my 2015i Suburban LTZ. I have noticed the wind noise which at first caused me to think either the driver side or rear passenger window was opened. I do not feel the pressure or notice the buffeting but will check again to see if I am experiencing that issue. The wind noise is a constant "wooshing" wind sound that occurs at most speeds. I also have a dash rattle that occurs on the driver side just over the console when I drive over bumps. If I drive and hold down the joint between the console and dash the noise is reduced.

 

I'm not looking forward to family road trips in this vehicle or the process for having GM make this right. I have an appointment with the dealer this week. Should be interesting.

Posted

CI Houn - there are 4 issues that dominate this thread, Shaking/Vibration/Buffeting/Pressure.

 

Shaking and vibration, no one has resolved the issue, a few have gotten rid of their vehicle, more than a few just deal with it for various reasons until or if they can get out of the deal.

 

Buffeting and pressure, 2 instances of claiming to have figured it out. (1) a dealer changed out the rear end. (2) another fella used cotton balls around his microphone. Few have gotten rid of their vehicle, more than a few just deal with it for various reasons until or if they can get out of the deal.

Posted

CI Houn - there are 4 issues that dominate this thread, Shaking/Vibration/Buffeting/Pressure.

 

Shaking and vibration, no one has resolved the issue, a few have gotten rid of their vehicle, more than a few just deal with it for various reasons until or if they can get out of the deal.

 

Buffeting and pressure, 2 instances of claiming to have figured it out. (1) a dealer changed out the rear end. (2) another fella used cotton balls around his microphone. Few have gotten rid of their vehicle, more than a few just deal with it for various reasons until or if they can get out of the deal.

Cotton balls? Is it a cabin pressure problem or a sound electrical issue

Posted

One fella used cotton balls around his noise cancellation mics and he says they eliminated the buffeting and pressure. Nothing written on this thread pertains to an electrical issue. Story too long to talk about the cotton balls. Type cotton balls into the search window (this topic) to get the background.

Posted (edited)

I believe each scenario is different depending on the sensitivity of the person experiencing the buffeting. I have come to believe all the vehicles have the issue to some degree. For the record, mine is a SLT, standard length, and I do NOT have the ANC mics. Due to this fact, I believe the mics enhance the issue, which I believe to be a mechanical one. This would make sense if the cotton balls used in those vehicles with mics muffled or canceled the 'enhanced' sound to the degree it could not be heard by that particular individual, or perhaps it did not work on another particular individual because of their sensitivity to the buffeting is greater.

 

The sweet spot for the buffeting in my vehicle is 43 MPH, however, my wife can barely hear the buffeting, where I can hear it loud and clear and feel the pressure. I have been working with my dealer who has been very helpful. The service manager rode with me and we did several test to rule out if the issue was a V4 -vs- V8 mode issue and found out it does not matter what mode the vehicle is in, the buffeting is present.

We now have a GMC engineer involved, and he also believes it could be a rear end issue as mentioned by another poster. The next step is to measure the backlash on every tooth in the rear end to determine if the rear end is indeed the culprit. Hopefully I can have this done next week.

 

As for 'just dealing with the issue', we are doing just that. It is not that big a deal to me and as I do not drive this vehicle as my primary vehicle and as stated before, my wife can barely hear the buffeting, so no issue with her. My dealer has been very helpful and determined to figure this out.

 

I understand each situation is different and I'll report back the findings.

Edited by cleanfreak
Posted

Are these problems only on the long ones or on the shorties too?

 

As per my above post, mine is a standard length Yukon or "shortie" with the issue.

Posted

I believe each scenario is different depending on the sensitivity of the person experiencing the buffeting. I have come to believe all the vehicles have the issue to some degree. For the record, mine is a SLT, standard length, and I do NOT have the ANC mics. Due to this fact, I believe the mics enhance the issue, which I believe to be a mechanical one. This would make sense if the cotton balls used in those vehicles with mics muffled or canceled the 'enhanced' sound to the degree it could not be heard by that particular individual, or perhaps it did not work on another particular individual because of their sensitivity to the buffeting is greater.

 

The sweet spot for the buffeting in my vehicle is 43 MPH, however, my wife can barely hear the buffeting, where I can hear it loud and clear and feel the pressure. I have been working with my dealer who has been very helpful. The service manager rode with me and we did several test to rule out if the issue was a V4 -vs- V8 mode issue and found out it does not matter what mode the vehicle is in, the buffeting is present.

We now have a GMC engineer involved, and he also believes it could be a rear end issue as mentioned by another poster. The next step is to measure the backlash on every tooth in the rear end to determine if the rear end is indeed the culprit. Hopefully I can have this done next week.

 

As for 'just dealing with the issue', we are doing just that. It is not that big a deal to me and as I do not drive this vehicle as my primary vehicle and as stated before, my wife can barely hear the buffeting, so no issue with her. My dealer has been very helpful and determined to figure this out.

 

I understand each situation is different and I'll report back the findings.

i had the same issues, now repaired; the entire rear end/axle assemble and drive shaft were replaced via GM engineering personal.

Posted

I have owned 3 2015 Yukon Denalis. One an early production model and two 'interim' models. None had this issue. I have not found a vehicle known to have the problem I could test and measure. That is not to say the problem does not exist ... it most certainly must; however, I suspect it is in part the vehicle's engineering and in part individual sensitivity to the intensity and frequency(ies) involved.

Was it an xl version?

Posted

i had the same issues, now repaired; the entire rear end/axle assemble and drive shaft were replaced via GM engineering personal.

 

So this solved the problem.

 

I know on my 02 denali with 200k plus miles on it developed a rear end issue that would vibrate the vehicle at 55 mph and would go away below or above that. It was a rumbling that would caused that similar effect. Actually might have been the drive shaft

As per my above post, mine is a standard length Yukon or "shortie" with the issue.

Ok. Going to rent a Tahoe lt tomorrow

Posted

i had the same issues, now repaired; the entire rear end/axle assemble and drive shaft were replaced via GM engineering personal.

 

Thank you for your reply. You have a PM.

Posted

i had the same issues, now repaired; the entire rear end/axle assemble and drive shaft were replaced via GM engineering personal.

 

Hope that's it. Cause I want my denali
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I am new to this… but I saw some of your replies to another person doing the same as me… trying to replace the temp control actuator in my 05 GMC SIERRA, And can NOT get to it… how do I get the center console panels off, do I have to take ALL of them off to get to it? 80481681120__F97CE005-C5E5-4FBF-9589-1388214E3586.MOV
    • I will be one of those "blinded". One, I like new shiny things. Two, I've never kept any of them beyond the 3/36. Three, I don't finance anything. Four, yep, it's a waste of money....so,what? I'm doing my part of keeping automotive industry going and keeping my neighbors, most of whom are in it, employed. 😉      By the way this is the "signature... ¬  
    • Although there is a "recommended" weight by those who sell trailers, my experience has been that they are way too aggressive in their information, for me at least. My '22 with 6.6 Gas, has a payload of about 3400 lbs and depending on your specs (I don't have 4WD so it has a bit higher Payload than others) yours will likely be different. Payload is one of the most important numbers for towing. Although you "could" tow the max trailer weight for your truck, I, personally, would not go close to that number. Having said that, a lot depends on how/where you will be towing. I live in the LMD of BC and often tow to Denver, Co, along interstates (flat and mountains) and I find I need to keep it in 5th (6spd) for the trip and travel at around 65mph. This is for a trailer dry weight of just under 3500lbs. If you are only doing local, short trips, it would not be that big an issue if you had a heavier unit. You will be surprised how much stuff you load the trailer with, so I would only recognize the trailers "full" GVWR weight rating, then decide on the appropriate trailer from that number. If you are worrying about how much stuff you should be putting in a trailer, you might have too large a rig from the get-go. Once again, depending on what terrain/distance in which you will be pulling. Marv
    • davester, Thanks for the response, how ever, I think I am now a bit more confused than I was before I posted - - After I posted, I actually found a YT video of a guy who replaced his Module (above tire) and he only disconnected the ground cable of the battery, but you describe rubbing the two cables together after disconnecting. I presume that is to do as you describe and eliminate any residual energy? - When I picked up the Module (between my posting and reading your response) from the dealer, I specifically asked about any re-programming and he stated it was not necessary as it was simply plug and play. Don't know how knowledgeable he is, though. - The video I watched also showed the Module plug to be difficult to "unlock" and remove, but there was no mention of silicone, although the video did show a bunch of dust/dirt in and around the plug (old truck) during removal. Are you talking about silicone that was applied by the factory, or silicone that you applied prior to plugging in? Thanks again, Marv
    • Looking for a clean, factory-style lighting upgrade for your 2022+ GMC Hummer EV? M&R Automotive's 40" Bumper Light Bar PRO features a vehicle-specific, bolt-on design with no drilling or cutting required. Choose a bright white or yellow main beam, both paired with an amber DRL backlight for a sleek OEM-inspired look. The kit includes a curved LED light bar, powder-coated brackets, and all necessary mounting hardware.    Learn more or order yours See how it installs and looks on the vehicle:    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...