Jump to content

MPG after Mods?


Whiskey Bent

Recommended Posts

Posted

I was wondering what kind of fuel mileage I can expect after a RC 2.5" and running a little bit bigger a/t tire? Don't want anything crazy just lift it up a little and fill the wheel wells up a bit. I have a cc std bed and right now I'm getting 20-22 mpg.

Posted

im wondering the same... From the research and threads I've been in, most say you can "expect" a 1-2mpg decrease, especially if you remove the bottom air dam.

 

Not sure if I am totally convinced on that estimate, but have no reason to doubt.

Posted

I know for a fact on my 07 grand Cherokee I saw 1.5 a 2.5 mpg decrease with a 3" lift bigger tires and removing the air dam. I'd like to stay around the 18 - 20 mpg range if possible doing the level and tires. Not planning on removing the air dam as of right now.

Posted

I saw about 2-3 mpg loss from a 1 1/2" level and 33x12.50x18 LR E tires. I kept the air dam. I'll probably keep it until I rip it on some rocks.

Posted

I did the 2.5 RC level on front, kept the rear stock blocks and changed to toyo at2's in 275/70 on stock 18's on my z71 crew. Went from 18.5-20.5 factory to 17.5-19.5 after mods. Did not remove air dam. Lost a little, but like the looks of it. Well worth the slight decrease in mpg's. I also added a Bakflip G2, but doubt that increased mpg's.

Posted

2" level, haven't added tires yet.

 

Removed the air dam, but ended up trimming and adding it back. Took about 2" off the sides, looks much better, and still hides the mounting holes.

 

18.5-20.5 mpg, mostly short trips

Posted

Well that's not too bad. I know it won't account for much but a tonneau cover may give some fuel mileage back after a lift and tires. At least I hope it does. Anyone with real world numbers as to mpg loss/gain for there mods in step by step after each mod?

Posted

The level and air dam removal won't cause much, if any decrease. The tires / wheels are the main culprit.

 

Exactly, if you do a level with no change in tires you won't see a difference in MPG (make sure you get your truck realigned obviously). I've heard mixed reviews about the air damn, everything from no change at all to -0.5 mpg but even if that is true, the only people going to see that are people that do like all hwy driving.

Posted

As stated, the leveling kit and air dam removal won't change much. You might lose 0.5-1.0 mpg, on a long highway trip, but otherwise, you won't notice much change. Bigger tires are what hurts. If you stay with a P-rated tire, and only go up a little in size (like to a 275/60/20 from the stock 275/55/20, or to a 265/70/18 from the stock 265/65/18), you won't notice much change at all. Maybe another 0.5-1.0 mpg on that too. If you go to a 10-ply (E-rated) tire, in the wider, 33"-34" range, expect a 2-4 mpg loss, depending on your driving habits and rear-end gear ratio.

Posted

Thanks for all the info guys. How's the cv angles with the RC 2.5" ? Might go with the combo lift to get the extra 1.5" body lift in the end

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thank you, I'll check that Autel scanner out and see if it will work for me! Ya I can see GM's point of view if they lower the psi set value for someone and the person sell's the truck and the new owner puts the factory tires back on then their could be liability issues cause the psi warning light wasn't coming on when the tires were under inflated for towing their load and then it might be able to be traced back to GM lowering it.
    • I had a similar but different response when I talked to the service manager where I bought my truck in that he said GM corporate won't allow them to lower the placard pressure setting as they would get their hand slapped but that of course they have the ability to make that change. His suggestion was simply go to a tire dealer or third party shop that is willing to reset the pressures lower. However I chose to buy a tpms tool and partly based off of this very forum as it had been proven to work on the 2024 model ( Global B system ) and while I could have paid lots for a full two way diag tool, I didn't want to spend that much and bought the recommended Autel TS 508 and it will reprogram the 2025 model and assume it should do the 2026 as well. However the tool is rather proprietary to reprogramming Autel tpms sensors so that is a function I will never use, where as a real two way scanner would have many uses but also have yearly subscriptions etc where this 508 is free updates for as long as they put updates out for the unit. In any event it worked to lower the placard pressures and I often use it to adjust my actual tire pressures although will check with a mechanical gauge as well sometimes just to make sure that tires tpms sensor isn't lying to me.    My suggestion is either buy a tool that you know will work to adjust the system or start out by getting the tire shop you bought your tires from to reset your truck and if after that you still want a unit to do it yourself, get one at that point. 
    • Here is an image of a quick Google search about these tires on my truck and it's exactly same psi recommendation the Toyo tires company gave me!    I'm not looking for anyone else recommended psi or anything, I'm just looking to see if anyone knew a way to get rid of the factory low psi warning light, because I'm not running high psi and ruining my tires when I'm not towing! 
    • 60psi front and 80psi rear But I am not running the factory tire brand or size! it's load range F Toyo tires
    • Open the driver's door jamb.  What do the cold tire PSI ratings on the tire placard show?   I'm not saying to run it to those numbers, but I would like to know what it says.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...