Ball joints or new control arms?

sahls01gmc · October 3, 2014

With the miles increasing, I need to replace the whole front end suspension. RockAuto's prices are hard to beat, and they leave me with a few options.

Should I just replace the whole upper control arm (since it has a new ball joint in it), or is it worth the savings to just do the ball joint? On the lowers, the price difference is significant enough that I would just replace the ball joints.

Anyone had better luck with one brand over another? Any other advice on front end items to replace with 265,000 miles?

Thanks for any suggestions.

gmtech4 · October 4, 2014

Did a licenced technician inspect this or do you have lots of cash ?

sahls01gmc · October 6, 2014

Did a licenced technician inspect this or do you have lots of cash ?

A licensed technician did inspect my truck (have to in Missouri to get tags), and "found" $2,300 worth of ball joints and tie-rod ends to replace. No, I do not have lots of cash, which is why I am looking to purchase the parts myself and replace them myself. If money were no object, I would not be driving a 15 year old truck with close to 300,000 miles.

"Suspension" may have been misleading....I just need to replace the suspension connection points

Just trying to see how much I will need to prepare myself for the adventure that lies ahead! It's not a daily driver anymore, but I would like to make it last as long as possible.

kstruckcountry · October 6, 2014

If you have a press to use, do the joints and bushings and keep the arms you have.

I'm planning on doing poly bushings in mine when the time comes. If you have a press for everything it's easier.

newdude · October 6, 2014

A licensed technician did inspect my truck (have to in Missouri to get tags), and "found" $2,300 worth of ball joints and tie-rod ends to replace. No, I do not have lots of cash, which is why I am looking to purchase the parts myself and replace them myself. If money were no object, I would not be driving a 15 year old truck with close to 300,000 miles.

"Suspension" may have been misleading....I just need to replace the suspension connection points

Just trying to see how much I will need to prepare myself for the adventure that lies ahead! It's not a daily driver anymore, but I would like to make it last as long as possible.

Well...you could buy the joints and the bushings, etc. and replace everything in the arms. Either way, the arms have to get pulled to yank the bushings. You could cut down on alot of time, for a bit more $ and throw new arms in instead. They have bushings, ball joints, etc. all ready to go and you don't have to do anything but pull the old arm and put the new one in its place. If you are going to keep it for a long time, I'd lean towards new complete arms.

You can pick up arms for as little as $50 or as much as $200. Click link--- http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=ooent071t30890fh3v5r7n09e0

kmborland · October 7, 2014

If it was me, I would do this

http://jdfabrication.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=61&Itemid=93

As I am trying to make my truck more of an expedition rig, The more travel, more adjustability, and locking alignment plates would go a long way in making the front end stronger, more compliant, and happier in all driving situation.

With the big tires and lots of miles on stock/factory parts, this will be on my coming soon list and I have already saved a third of the price for it. Hoping by next summer to have it installed.

sahls01gmc · October 7, 2014

Well...you could buy the joints and the bushings, etc. and replace everything in the arms. Either way, the arms have to get pulled to yank the bushings. You could cut down on alot of time, for a bit more $ and throw new arms in instead. They have bushings, ball joints, etc. all ready to go and you don't have to do anything but pull the old arm and put the new one in its place. If you are going to keep it for a long time, I'd lean towards new complete arms.

You can pick up arms for as little as $50 or as much as $200. Click link--- http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=ooent071t30890fh3v5r7n09e0

Thanks newdude, that's exactly my train of thought. I think I am just going to go ahead and replace the arms....it's still cheaper than any shop pressing in new bushings.

Does anyone know what the difference is between the CK620054 control arm and the CK620053? The ....53 comes with the offset bushing....how exactly does that work? I have stock suspension, and 265 tires....should I be worried about the additional 2 degrees of camber?

Thanks for everyone's input!

newdude · October 7, 2014

I would think that as long as the torsion bars aren't outrageously turned up or anything special, you should be fine going for the regular arm setup.

sahls01gmc · October 8, 2014

I would think that as long as the torsion bars aren't outrageously turned up or anything special, you should be fine going for the regular arm setup.

They are turned up so that the truck sits level, is that too much? i have noticed some slight uneven wear on my tires, but I think that is mostly due to the "play" in the suspension.

newdude · October 8, 2014

Hmm...might not actually hurt to get the ones with more adjustment. I mean, you can get it aligned in spec with the stock arms but the additional degree might help with the truck leveled. Is the tire wear on the edges of the tread?

sahls01gmc · October 8, 2014

It is, on the inside. Seems like a safe bet to get the ones with additional adjustment. Besides, it's only $10 more. I was just worried about getting the wrong ones! Thanks!

Spurshot · November 20, 2014

I know this thread is a month old, but I was in the same boat on my old 2500 a number of years ago. I changed what I thought was everything, control arms (w/balljoints and bushings), draglink, tierod ends, pitman arm. Did all the work myself and drove to the alignment shop. It still had some slop in it. The front end shop I use has some good guys. They found that the idler arm and bushing were worn loose. I let them fix that. It tightened up the slop and the steering was like new. Don't forget the idler arm and bushing.

sahls01gmc · November 20, 2014

Thanks for the input! I was actually going to let that one go until you said that. I'm going to make sure to replace all of them now. I'm slowly gathering all of the parts now so I can tackle it all at once this winter.