Jump to content

Cooper, or Toyo

LaserBlueZ71

By LaserBlueZ71
in Tires, Wheels & TPMS

Recommended Posts

LaserBlueZ71 Enthusiast

LaserBlueZ71

Posted
Posted

Ok guys, I have to choose.

 

Cooper S/T Maxx

285/65R18

11.80'' wide

32.80'' diameter

63 LB

 

Toyo R/T

285/65R18

11.50'' wide

32.80'' diameter

71 LB

 

Toyo R/T

33X12.50R18

12.50'' wide

32.80'' diameter

75 LB

 

This will be for a 2011 Silverado Ext Cab on a Rancho 4'' lift.

 

The funny thing with the 33X12.50R18 Toyo R/T, is that it is cheaper than the 285/65R18, and it has less weight capacity than the 285/65R18, even though it is a 1 inch wider tire.

 

One number I can't get over is how much lighter the Cooper tire is. Those Toyo R/T's must make the truck feel like a total pig.

gnet158 Senior Enthusiast

gnet158

Posted
Posted

Hmm, I'm running a Cooper AT/3 275/65/18 I think and love it, but I've also ran the Toyo M/T 35' and Toyo A/T my Sierra, honestly, you can't go wrong with either. I'd buy the one that cost less, and it's not perm so if you don't like what you buy then you can buy another brand when these wear out.

LaserBlueZ71 Enthusiast

LaserBlueZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Toyo. If you actually make your mind up to keep it and buy the lift! :jester:

Decided to keep what I have.

 

When I sat down and crunched the numbers, there was no way I was willing to go that much further into debt. I am trying to work my way out of debt, not back in! I need to just stop looking at other vehicles and keep mine for 15 years!

 

The weight of the Toyo's is what's really making me ponder about them. I wonder how bad my fuel economy would get with a heavy 12.50 wide 33? It will take me YEARS to wear out whatever I buy, that's why I want to be happy with what I get. I only put on about 12,000 to 15,000 KM a year. At that rate, I could probably get 5 to 6 years out of a set of tires.

LaserBlueZ71 Enthusiast

LaserBlueZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Definately Toyo based on looks and wear.

Would you get the 285/65R18 or the 33x12.50R18?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • TrueBlue
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      I toggled my updates off a couple of years back. Since I don't have any CEL activity and the truck runs fine I'm happy to refrain from rolling the dice. I figure they've got it as good as it's gonna get. Recalls are another matter and I will strongly consider those if I get a notice in the mail.
    • TrueBlue
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      We'll know soon. But at the end of the day they'll likely not take owner aggravation and costs into consideration. Probably the most important factor to them will be bottom line, along with units sold. Did they make money off sales of AFM/DFM-equipped vehicles? If yes, and the margin was large enough in spite of warranty and recall costs, I don't know that they will consider much else. Aside from government involvement of course, as in EPA and other regulatory bodies.
    • Grumpy Bear
      HighMileage oils or stay with Dexos 1 ?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      HM oils and cleaning. Well, soft deposits yes, perhaps. Like you say esters are present in in theory that should be a plus. But, is there enough? 🤔 The marker is the "Aniline Point" and it has to be pretty low to solve out baked on deposits. The softer sludge, yea, they do that and that is the claim. Valvoline R&P is the only HM oil I know of (Jury is out on Mobil 1's product) whose chemistry is uniquely able to remove the hard stuff and not be so aggressive as to swell seals to uselessness.    Oxidation levels in virgin oils blends is a good indicator of ester level and higher is generally a lower Aniline number and at one time we could predict without the $400 aniline test it's effectiveness. AN's, alkylated naphthalene doesn't show up in the oxidation test but does show in the aniline test and has become sort of a cheaper go to but most oils only add enough to solve the additive package. Not nearly enough to clean the harder carbon materials.   To your second question about does it matter. Yes is the short answer. Deposits are insulative. Those under the piston crown for example add octane requirement for knock free running. We don't' normally notice in todays motors due to Knock sensor driven ignition R-e-t-a-r-d. At least until the full slate of available values is consumed. Newer motors also often use oil jets to cool the piston to achieve tunes that would otherwise not be possible. Deposits on either side subtract from that. Deposits in fine screens used in VVT/VVL or DFM/AFM services live and die on cleanliness and screens are front and center. Vacuum pumps as well like brake booster in the K2's.    90% of todays oils are Group II+/III blends. A few more at PAO/AN/Group II's. A few boutique oils not Walmart shelf materials have enough solvency to prevent but not remove the hard stuff. R & P the current exception. Even HPL's EC30/40 used as directed (20% max) will get the soft stuff and some varnish out but not the hard stuff.    That orange varnish isn't baked on oil. Those are fuel varnishes left when the fuel diluted in the oil drops out when the oil cools. Like sugar does in a saturated mix of sugar and water that is put into the frig. That is ring sticking material and a glue the binds hard carbon sometimes.    Name brand shelf oils are intended to provide a useful service life at the least cost and highest benefit to the OEM who is trying very hard to keep you in $500 a month payment programs where the real money is made.   Did I miss anything you asked or left unsatisfied?        
    • TrueBlue
      Brake Pad Warning Message

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      Yes, I understand. And I was saying (poorly), that it popped up on the DIC when I didn't have that info screen up. Just like you, but for a different maintenance issue. And just like yours mine didn't need to be shown at that time.
    • Atlas
      HighMileage oils or stay with Dexos 1 ?

      By Atlas · Posted

      Ugh, amateurs.   But I did learn HM seal conditioners are esters.   I'm curious about deposit removal - some of the HM oils claim they really clean stuff up, the old and hard to reach stuff, and that's great? To Grumpy's point, a good oil should already be keeping the house pretty clean. I assume there are hard to reach places (underside of pistons?) and things that just accumulate baked-on oil and combustion vapors. If the deposits aren't friction or combustion surfaces and the deposit is just normal "seasoning", is it actually important to remove it?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...