Jump to content

2015 GMC Denali 6.2/8-speed shifting noise when cold


Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks, being that my truck was built mid to late december and delivered to the dealer first week of january, would it be safe to assume this update was done to my truck before I picked it up? Bc it sure doesnt feel like it.

 

BTW putting it in M7 really seems to smooth things out.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Thanks, being that my truck was built mid to late december and delivered to the dealer first week of january, would it be safe to assume this update was done to my truck before I picked it up? Bc it sure doesnt feel like it.

 

BTW putting it in M7 really seems to smooth things out.

 

Mine was built and delivered in the same time frame, so I would say that your trans has not been updated if you are experiencing problems (clunky/awkward shifting). I simply forward my service adviser the service bulletin number...brought it in and they did the update on the spot.

Posted

 

Mine was built and delivered in the same time frame, so I would say that your trans has not been updated if you are experiencing problems (clunky/awkward shifting). I simply forward my service adviser the service bulletin number...brought it in and they did the update on the spot.

 

I sent the service bulletin to my dealer but they said it didnt pertain to my VIN, but they would be happy to do it anyways. Did your VIN match those listed in the service update by chance?

Posted

My vin matched, built 10/14. My understanding is that this was for all 8-speed equipped vehicles. Yours might have been flashed before you received it. According to the tech that has been working on my truck, there was another update released in mid-January.

Posted

Mine has the slight clunk when taking off from a stop, and its been there since day one. Nothing excessive, just normal light pedal. It only does it when cold too. The TSB 14876 didn't help it. It goes into the dealer tomorrow to see what it is, along with some rough shifting.

 

The clunk is *very* similar to the "hill start" releasing when you accelerate. Maybe related? I guess I will find out more tomorrow. :)

Posted

The other day I started my truck and felt what I describe as a bump from the back end. I turned off the truck and turned it back on and felt the same thing. I dogs it a few times before finally taking off. My truck had the service bulletin performed and still issues. I'm curious about this most recent update.

Posted

Got mine truck back from the dealership today. The initial clunk is still unknown. They said they made sure everything is tight in the driveline. The tranny isn't showing any diagnostic problems, such as TC slipping and what not. So no luck there. I have been able to reproduce it better by coming to a stop (even very gently to prevent dive), sit 20 or so seconds like waiting on a stop light, then gently apply the accelerator. If I am very gentle, its more a click than a clunk, but it still happens. Still, doesn't help when the dealership can't reliably produce it themselves to figure it out. I will get under it when the weather is nicer to see things for myself.

 

As for the harsher shifting at times, especially when going into 5th or 6th, I was given a better answer than the standard "that's normal". I was told "it's normal, as its a very busy transmission".

 

At least I didn't get my truck back with scratches, dings, or weak brake pedal like others have had happen. I am going to try a different dealership though.

Posted

They just replaced my tranny because of that clunk noise. They said it was a defective clutch pack. I test drive it Tomorow to see how it is.

I believe I may have been the first to go through three dealers until they finally gave in with some real answers.3000 miles built 10/14 gm tach told dealer the update would fix it but then they said it wouldn't and parts were on back order then just replaced entire unit.

Posted

They just replaced my tranny because of that clunk noise. They said it was a defective clutch pack. I test drive it Tomorow to see how it is.

I believe I may have been the first to go through three dealers until they finally gave in with some real answers.3000 miles built 10/14 gm tach told dealer the update would fix it but then they said it wouldn't and parts were on back order then just replaced entire unit.

I'm really excited to hear about that test drive.
Posted

I'm really excited to hear about that test drive.

Well tranny is installed. They wanted to keep the truck and put 80-100 miles on it so tranny can learn shift points. He didn't want me to pick it up until its completely ready.

Posted

Well tranny is installed. They wanted to keep the truck and put 80-100 miles on it so tranny can learn shift points. He didn't want me to pick it up until its completely ready.

Ok, just let us know as soon as you can. Appreciate it.
Posted

Well tranny is installed. They wanted to keep the truck and put 80-100 miles on it so tranny can learn shift points. He didn't want me to pick it up until its completely ready.

While I completely believe that is their intent, my mind couldn't help but think it meant "The tech is going to beat the ever living snot out of it for 80-100 miles without warming it up to make sure works". I have trust issues....

Posted

 

I sent the service bulletin to my dealer but they said it didnt pertain to my VIN, but they would be happy to do it anyways. Did your VIN match those listed in the service update by chance?

 

No it did not, but they still did the update and it significantly helped my trans. Once I got it back it was like I had a new transmission.

Posted

 

No it did not, but they still did the update and it significantly helped my trans. Once I got it back it was like I had a new transmission.

If you are referring to TSB 14876, it isn't an "update" per se. If you read the TSB, all they are doing is using a Tech2 to go back into re-learn mode, which makes the transmission forget all its saved shift values to make new ones. This first puts it in uber-conservative shifting, where you can really tell the throttle comes off, the shift happens, and it tips back in. They can do that to any truck all day long.

 

The issue for specific VINs was that certain "bad" values were introduced by flashing software in the factory that cause it to use those by default. Mine was one of them, and it went from banging around in the shifting right off the carrier, smooth after re-learn, to slowly harder shifting as the miles added up.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...