Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Pictures won't post properly. But heres the rest. Installation Instructions Part Number

22901614

Kit Usage

This kit adds remote start to vehicles without option BTV. The vehicle must also have AQQ and an Automatic Transmission. Both can be verified by using GM Vehicle Inquiry System (GMVIS). For proper operation of the remote vehicle start system, a hood status-switch equipped hood latch is required. For light duty trucks, a jumper harness addition is also required in order to complete circuit 109, Hood Status Signal to the Body Control Module. Adding remote vehicle start also requires programming of the vehicle. This is done using the Service Programming System. The installer must call TCSC (1-888-337-1010) to obtain a VCI number. The TCSC will provide a Vehicle Configuration Index (VCI). The VCI is good for only one specific Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). You must have the vehicle’s VIN that will be upgraded and the Authorization Code from the label on the Installation Instruction Sheet included with the kit. This will allow you to access the software to enable the remote vehicle start option.

Kit Contents

Qty

Description

1

Set of Transmitter Key Fobs (2 in total)

1

Hood Latch Assembly (with switch pigtail)

1

Jumper Harness Assembly, including strap clip attached with blue tape (Light Duty kits ONLY)

10

Tie Straps (Light Duty kits ONLY)

1

Installation Instructions (including Authorization Code Label)

Note: Due to wire routing requirements on Light Duty Pickups, please review this entire procedure before trying to perform it.

Note: When calling the TCSC, you must use the Authorization Code from the kit and have the VIN available.

Special Tools, Equipment and Chemicals Required

  • Scan Tool (with capability of communicating on GMLAN)
  • Service Programming System (SPS – TIS2WEB, or equivalent)
  • J-46079 Tire Pressure Monitor Diagnostic Tool
  • GM Glass Cleaner or Cleaner-9M905449 (US) or 00992727 (Canada) – or equivalent
  • Silicone RTV 12378479 US or 88861419 Canada – or equivalent
  • 8” (20cm) ¼” diameter steel brake tube with ends cut a 45 degree bevel – for feeding wire through grommet
  • J-38125-22 wiring connector tool

Diagram for LD PU Harness Only

3419074.giftif.gif

This diagram outlines scope of the Jumper harness for Remote Vehicle Start accessory:

Front of vehicle (1)

Plenum (2)

Plenum Grommet (3)

Harness Ground (4)

Hood Latch (5)

Procedure Remove Front Compartment Front Sight Shield
  1.  

  2. Remove the front compartment front sight shield push-in retainers (1).
  3. Remove the front compartment front sight shield (2).
Updating the Hood Latch – Required for all non-UTJ Pickups

Harness is For Light Duty Trucks Only

3419291.giftif.gif

Route 3-way connector jumper harness branch (2) along front of vehicle, in preparation for routing under Grille Mount Panel Bolt (1) and Bracket (3). Be sure to route in front of air baffle (4). As a general guideline (after driver side of the hood latch) route alongside the Hood Release Cable up to the Driver Side Hood Bumper located on the Tie Bar.

For Light Duty and Heavy Duty Trucks

 

  1. Remove and replace hood primary and secondary latch. Refer to Hood Primary and Secondary Latch Replacement.
  2.  

  3. Make connection from the Hood Latch Pigtail (2) to 3-way forward lamp harness connector (1) (or Jumper Connector for Light Duty Trucks.)
  4. Ensure that the connection is securely fastened in the positioning locator for the connector. Refer to B55 Hood Ajar Switch.
  5. This Step is For Light Duty Trucks ONLY:

    Remove the 6.35mm hole clip with strap, which is taped to the harness (blue tape) and fasten harness (4) to the air Baffle (3) 6.35mm hole approx 4” (10cm) away from connector. Tighten strap clip and cut to length.

  6.  

  7. Remove and replace grille mount panel bolt (1).

    Tighten

    Tighten bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

    Note: Ensure the bolt does not pinch the jumper harness conduit when fastening.

Installation of the Hood Latch Status Signal Jumper Harness (For Light Duty Pickup ONLY)

Routing the 3-way Connector Branch of the Harness (Light Duty Pickup ONLY)

3420307.giftif.gif

Note: Use a tie strap, part number 11509086 (10 total in kit) to secure the harness to the hood latch release cable, after the hood latch, and before the hood bumper. Cut all tie straps to length.

Fasten the jumper harness to the Hood Latch Release Cable in one location along air baffle, using tie straps (1) P/N 11509086 from the kit. (midway between the two hood cable clips (2). Secure harness along hood release cable using two additional tie straps (3) P/N 11509086. Approx distance between tie straps should be 20cm. Cut all tie straps to length.

Routing the Ground Branch of the Harness (Light Duty Pickup ONLY)

 

  1.  

  2. Route the ground ring branch of the harness along the washer bottle tube and fasten using a tie strap P/N 11509086, to the forward lamp harness head lamp connector branch. Continue to route in front of the bottle and in front of the fog lamp bracket. Accessing from underneath the vehicle, continue to route behind the front fender and fasten to the upper end of the downward branch (2) of the forward lamp harness (1) using tie strap (3) P/N 11509086.
  3.  

  4. Continue along down to the ground stud G101 (1). Remove the ground stud and fasten using BOLT/SCREW-FORWARD LAMP WIRING HARNESS GROUND, tighten to 9 N.m for ground ring, noting there may also be an existing ground from the forward lamp harness. Cut all tie straps to length.
Underhood Routing of the Hood Latch Status Signal Wire (Light Duty Pickup ONLY)

 

  1.  

  2. Following hood latch cable, route the signal length of the harness (1), inserting the harness into the C-clips (2), in two locations.
  3. Using tie strap (3), P/N 11509086, fasten in two locations between C-clips, maintaining approximately 20cm between fastening points. Cut tie straps to length.
  4.  

  5. Fasten to the third hood latch cable C-clip and branch away and toward the body harness before the grommet (3). Fasten the jumper harness (1) to the body harness using two tie straps (2) P/N 11509086 evenly spaced approximately 20 cm alternating with clips. Cut to length.
  6. Route the signal wire conduit to the body harness grommet, ensuring to create a 3” diameter drip loop (4) before positioning the taped conduit end at the grommet for entry to the interior of the vehicle.
  7. using a utility knife, cut an 1/8” slit in the grommet (3) to prepare the entry for the bare signal wire.
Routing Wire through Grommet to the Body Control Module (Light Duty Pickup ONLY)

 

  1.  

  2. From inside the vehicle, remove the fasteners and position aside the instrument panel wiring harness junction block.

    Note: Junction block connector removal is not required.

  3. Using a utility knife, cut an 1/8” slit in the thin hole of the grommet opposite of the exterior side. From inside the vehicle, insert the ¼” brake tube (2) through the back piece of the grommet (3).

    Note: Grommet removal should not be required.

  4. From inside the vehicle, carefully push the tubing through to the front of the grommet, exiting at the exterior end of grommet.
  5. From the under side of hood, insert and feed the signal wire (1) and terminal through the tubing (2) to the inside of the vehicle.

    Be sure to maintain the conduit drip loop just before the grommet entry. Verify that the grommet end does not collapse.

  6. Remove the steel tubing (2) and clean both the entry and exit surfaces of the grommet using cleaner P/N 9M905449 (US), 00992727 (Canada), or equivalent.
  7. Apply silicone to the grommet at both wire entry and exit, using silicone P/N 12378479 (US), 88861419 (Canada) , or equivalent. Leave to dry while completing the remainder of this procedure.
  8. Using J-38125-22 tool, remove any wiring in K9 BCM X4 26-way connector pin 24 (BN/L-GN) and tape back onto the body harness, if applicable. Insert the GN (green) jumper harness signal wire connector into pin 24 on the K9 BCM X4 26-way connector. Refer to K9 Body Control Module X4. Reinstall all connectors.
  9. Reinstall the instrument panel wiring harness junction block to the floor studs and install the fasteners.

Programming the Vehicle (All Vehicles)

Note: For North America vehicles, the installation of accessory remote start requires BCM programming. This is done with a Service Programming System. The installer needs to call the Techline Customer Support Center (1-800-828-6860). The Techline Customer Support Center will provide programming instructions and changes to the vehicles calibration settings. You must provide the vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle to be programmed and the authorization code provided with the accessory, when calling.

Reprogram BCM. Refer to Body Control Module Programming and Setup and follow Reprogram Control Module Instructions.

Learning Transmitters to Vehicle

Reprogram remote control door lock transmitters. Refer to Remote Control Door Lock Transmitter Learn

Reinstall all removed components.

 

  • 5 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
    • Yes, you must have seen my thread on the Blazer. HOT GARBAGE, but I love them anyway. I'm convinced every car guy has a soft sport for an S/T series somewheres. Probably even a Panther too, if I'm being an honest car guy. That doesn't mean they aren't junk. And they definitely don't get better with age. I sometimes play with old cars, but that's by choice. I don't rely on them and they aren't my everyday fleet.   Derek plays the common man on Youtube and that's no doubt where he started. Now he has Youtube money (and Motortrend, etc). You think his crews and his wife ride around in old beaters when they're chasing him and his wrecks across the country? No he's got newer and nicer stuff for that, you'll see glimpses of it in the footage.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...