Jump to content

2004 Z71 Service 4WD


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2004 Silverado showing Service 4WD when I start the truck. There aren't any lights lit on the switch. It randomly decided to work for me a couple months ago. I got to use it once, then it stopped working.

 

I checked the transfer case fluid and didn't see anything in it. I've replaced the switch, the TCCM under the dash and checked all the fuses that might have anything to do with 4WD. My usual Chevy guy has never heard of this problem before and has suggested either the actuator or a solenoid by the front axle. I figured I might as well ask here and try to use the abundance of GM knowledge before I continue swapping parts and hoping for the best.

Posted

Scan it for codes so you're not throwing parts at it. Could be a broken wire, a corroded pin in one of the connectors, the encoder motor or the axle actuator.

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm assuming you mean get it scanned with something other than an OBD-2. I've checked with an OBD-2 and it didn't show anything. Other than that, I don't know what else to have scanned.

Posted

I'm assuming you mean get it scanned with something other than an OBD-2. I've checked with an OBD-2 and it didn't show anything. Other than that, I don't know what else to have scanned.

Scan the TCCM With a real scanner

Posted

What do you mean by "real scanner"? Is this mythical scanner something I can go to a parts store and buy, do I have to order it or do I have to take my truck to a shop or dealer?

Posted

What do you mean by "real scanner"? Is this mythical scanner something I can go to a parts store and buy, do I have to order it or do I have to take my truck to a shop or dealer?

Any decent garage has one , no ya can't go and buy 1 at a parts store

 

They cost more than $50 ,,, waaaay more

Posted

Yeah, you'll need more than a code reader to scan the tcase. If you're lucky and tell them you just want the codes they might not charge you.

 

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Posted

I had the same problem (or similar problem) on my 06 Sierra. I searched and searched for people who had the same problem and after changing the 4x4 switch I decided I was going to change the encoder motor sensor in the encoder motor assembly. I will try to find the link for the forum I found with step by step directions. I do all of my own work on my vehicles but am by no means a mechanic, and it took me less than an hour for the job once I got underneath my truck. The part cost me around $40. That is all I spent for this fix.

Posted

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/general-discussion/technical-maintenance/417858-encoder-motor-sensor-replacement-w-pics.html

 

I am not sure if it shared a link but if not just copy and paste the above address and there are good directions on how to replace the encoder motor sensor. I changed my encoder motor sensor and have had ZERO 4x4 problems since. And , honestly, after reading the steps in the above link I was feeling a little overwhelmed . But it really was an easy fix. I almost had the encoder motor assembly back in , after replacing the sensor, without dropping the front driveshaft. I ultimately decided it was easier to finish the job after dropping the front drive shaft. I didnt install a new gasket in the Encoder motor assembly. It was In great condition still after 130000 plus miles. Good luck.

Posted

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/general-discussion/technical-maintenance/417858-encoder-motor-sensor-replacement-w-pics.html

I am not sure if it shared a link but if not just copy and paste the above address and there are good directions on how to replace the encoder motor sensor. I changed my encoder motor sensor and have had ZERO 4x4 problems since. And , honestly, after reading the steps in the above link I was feeling a little overwhelmed . But it really was an easy fix. I almost had the encoder motor assembly back in , after replacing the sensor, without dropping the front driveshaft. I ultimately decided it was easier to finish the job after dropping the front drive shaft. I didnt install a new gasket in the Encoder motor assembly. It was In great condition still after 130000 plus miles. Good luck.

Are you telling him to do the same thing as you ?

 

Can you IM him to give your mailing addy so he can get his money back if he actually does it and it still doesn't work ??????

 

Will you do that ?

 

Stop giving people advise on what to do " the same thing happened to me " is BS

 

You're not helping

Posted

Are you telling him to do the same thing as you ?

 

Can you IM him to give your mailing addy so he can get his money back if he actually does it and it still doesn't work ??????

 

Will you do that ?

 

Stop giving people advise on what to do " the same thing happened to me " is BS

 

You're not helping

Your post does not help the OP. I am however giving my experience and he can decide for himself what he wants to do. I was limited on the money I had at the time of my problem and did what I had to do to fix my problem. I did a ton of reading other people problems and fixes then decided what I was going to do. I talked to mechanic buddies and talked to anyone who would listen .The op can take what I have written and use it or he can go to the shop or he can do whatever he wants!!!! Thank you for your input, or lack there of. And if he does all that and it doesn't work it will only cost less than $50.

Posted

Well this got unnecessarily aggressive. Let's just calm down everyone. Knotsure's post did help because I hadn't thought of that sensor yet. And, before this post, I didn't know there was a way to have the xfer case scanned. I'm obviously going to look into that first. Everybody's input is helpful, unless you're attacking someone for saying he had the same problem and laying out what he did to fix it. I don't tolerate that at all from anyone

Posted

Your post does not help the OP. I am however giving my experience and he can decide for himself what he wants to do. I was limited on the money I had at the time of my problem and did what I had to do to fix my problem. I did a ton of reading other people problems and fixes then decided what I was going to do. I talked to mechanic buddies and talked to anyone who would listen .The op can take what I have written and use it or he can go to the shop or he can do whatever he wants!!!! Thank you for your input, or lack there of. And if he does all that and it doesn't work it will only cost less than $50.

Well this got unnecessarily aggressive. Let's just calm down everyone. Knotsure's post did help because I hadn't thought of that sensor yet. And, before this post, I didn't know there was a way to have the xfer case scanned. I'm obviously going to look into that first. Everybody's input is helpful, unless you're attacking someone for saying he had the same problem and laying out what he did to fix it. I don't tolerate that at all from anyone

Guys , no one knows what people are looking for and what they will do with advise givin, if a member does something here that some one else had done AND DOESNT FIX IT , how would you feel ? Think about that for a second , wasting hard earned money ,,,,

 

We can't do that EVER !!!

 

Is my point

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Most online suppliers and Amazon. All have noted "not for use with Bose speakers".
    • Very interesting thread. Definitely didn’t expect to see this kind of mileage out of that engine. 
    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...