Jump to content

Belt chirp on 2000 5.3 anyone got any ideas?


Recommended Posts

Posted

So I have a 2000 sierra with the 5.3 (with 124k miles as of 3-5) and when it got cold this last fall the belt started chirping. So I put a new masterpro belt on it and the chirp went away. Then in December I had a new water pump at 121k miles which I know is typical for these trucks. I would have done it myself, but its too cold outside here in Indiana. But anyways it started chirping again and it has not stopped. But the chirp quiets down when its in the 40's outside and the engine has been at operating temperature for a while but you can still here it. I've heard its because of the pulley alignment but I'm not sure. It drives me crazy and its embarrassing! can anyone help?

Posted

Yes I have. The tensioner is good and there's no play in the idler pulley bearings

Posted

Try spraying a good lubricant in the tensioner pulley when it starts. See if it goes away, spray again if it starts. I think these are sealed bearings so you may have to replace what ever one you narrow it down to.

Posted

Try spraying a good lubricant in the tensioner pulley... these are sealed bearings....

They are sealed. I can't imagine any spray lube reaching bearings within.

Posted

Take the belt off and spin all the pulleys. Doing so will isolate the concern to one particular area

 

If all pulleys sound good, try reinstalling the belt so it will spin the opposite direction from current. It is possible that the belt wore in between the time it was replaced and when the water pump was replaced. Chirps can pop up after the belt was reinstalled and spinning the opposite direction from their original wear in.

Posted

When you take the belt off, I'd go ahead and replace the tensioner and pulley(s). Cheap insurance if anything.

Posted

I have had good luck with gatorback belts. If you dont find any pulleys or tensioners bad, i sometimes have luck by hitting belt with a quick spray of carb cleaner while running and then some silicone spray.

Posted

I had the same issue.

 

I had replaced the tensioner, idler pulley, belt. Then when it persisted i changed the belt two more times.

 

Ended up finding a leak in the water pump so i replaced it. Then it still squealed so i removed the ac belt to check and it persisted.

 

I purchased a gatorback and still had it.

 

Finally in the end i found old residue of my last belt all on the fan clutch pulley and very little on the idler pulley.

 

I cleaned both with carb cleaner and let it dry, well now after 3 months of annoying chirping it was quiet and has been for the last 2-3 months now.

 

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

Posted

On our 2002 Yukon the fix was to replace the aftermarket belt with a GM belt.

Posted

Take one of those scotch-brite pads to the shiny surface of the idler pulley and any other pulley that the belt runs on the shiny side. Don't try it when truck is running. I realize I should not have to say that, but, sometimes people do strange things when it is cold outside and they would rather be inside the house or wife.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 344 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...