Jump to content

Clunk/thud while accelerating/slowing down


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just took my clamps back off temporarily. My truck has always shifted fine, but I just had the clunks. The clamps only got rid of some of the clunks. But to me, I think it did stiffen the ride and it seemed like I could feel more vibrations (just slightly) in my seat when driving locally. Since I took the camps off, I don't feel the slight vibration in the seat anymore.

 

Try torquing the u-bolt nuts. Mine were off spec and had to give all of them at least 1 full turn. So far no clunks. I only got clunks once in awhile, usually when I gave it a lot of throttle.

  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I took mine off as well. I already have the NHT and it did ride a little rougher. Jury is out for me?

Posted

installing them with the wheels on and the truck on the ground means there's some weight on the springs, right? So you can make it tighter with the clamps?

 

I'm heading to Autozone tonight to buy some...

If you jack the truck up under the axle wouldn't that have the same effect as the truck sitting on the tire? The leaf spring is loaded with the weight of the truck either way.

Posted

I didn't clamp mine after all. What I found out is that while the leafspring ubolts were tight, they still were not torqued to the 78ft/lbs the spec I was given calls for. The driver side nuts were around 60ft/lbs, while the passenger was around 70ft/lbs. So I loosened them all on both sides to relieve the load and allow the leaves to settle, and then retorqued the nuts to 78ft/lbs in the correct pattern. No more clunking/popping. Need to recheck the nuts tonight, but so far, so good!

As I follow this thread it looks live several have found loose ubolts. Is 78 ft lbs the correct torque? What is the correct torque pattern? I will check mine at tire rotation once I have the info.

Posted

As I follow this thread it looks live several have found loose ubolts. Is 78 ft lbs the correct torque? What is the correct torque pattern? I will check mine at tire rotation once I have the info.

 

That's what I torqued mine to because that's what I've read on this thread. You don't have to take the tires off to tighten them so you don't have to wait until the tires are rotated. As for the pattern, I honestly didn't do a certain pattern. I just made sure to TQ both nuts on the same u-bolt before moving to the next one.

Posted

 

That's what I torqued mine to because that's what I've read on this thread. You don't have to take the tires off to tighten them so you don't have to wait until the tires are rotated. As for the pattern, I honestly didn't do a certain pattern. I just made sure to TQ both nuts on the same u-bolt before moving to the next one.

 

78ft/lbs is what the dealership told me when they first cranked them down. They said they got more than a full turn on them to torque them to spec.

Posted

 

78ft/lbs is what the dealership told me when they first cranked them down. They said they got more than a full turn on them to torque them to spec.

 

I had to do at least a full turn on all of them too.

Posted

I just took my clamps back off temporarily. My truck has always shifted fine, but I just had the clunks. The clamps only got rid of some of the clunks. But to me, I think it did stiffen the ride and it seemed like I could feel more vibrations (just slightly) in my seat when driving locally. Since I took the camps off, I don't feel the slight vibration in the seat anymore.

I figured at some point someone wouldn't like it. At the same time though I haven't notvied anything change. I pay attention to bumps in the road and try to see if I can feel the rear end riding over them rough and the rear still rides smooth.
Posted

Here is a picture of Rockwell American parts number for their shackle kit...

 

Do I need the 2.25 straps or 2.625 ?

 

Guess I can go measure the leaf springs but it's dark out...

post-145457-0-15170300-1435727435_thumb.jpg

post-145457-0-15170300-1435727435_thumb.jpg

post-145457-0-15170300-1435727435_thumb.jpg

post-145457-0-15170300-1435727435_thumb.jpg

Posted

I did my ubolts several months ago with no change in the clunkity clunk whatsoever. I will say they were definitely not at spec.

Posted

Here is a picture of Rockwell American parts number for their shackle kit...

 

Do I need the 2.25 straps or 2.625 ?

 

Guess I can go measure the leaf springs but it's dark out...

2.625
Posted

I took mine off as well. I already have the NHT and it did ride a little rougher. Jury is out for me?

I have the "clunk" mostly noticeable when I let off the gas when the truck is in 2nd gear. So driving in parking lots and driving through neighborhoods its very noticeable. The dealer and GM say its normal. I've had 5 different late model GM 4x4's and none of them clunked this bad. pretty sad! I tried clamping the springs and it made no difference on my truck. I'm still trying to figure out what is causing it. I may try a local driveline shop to get their opinion. I will keep this updated if I find out any useful info.

 

Posted

 

I have the "clunk" mostly noticeable when I let off the gas when the truck is in 2nd gear. So driving in parking lots and driving through neighborhoods its very noticeable. The dealer and GM say its normal. I've had 5 different late model GM 4x4's and none of them clunked this bad. pretty sad! I tried clamping the springs and it made no difference on my truck. I'm still trying to figure out what is causing it. I may try a local driveline shop to get their opinion. I will keep this updated if I find out any useful info.

 

 

Your description is identical to mine. The clamps however did help somewhat but the clunk was still there but less noticeable. I just did not care for the ride. Also I worried about addition leaf spring stress when I tow my TT which is primarily the job of my truck.

 

On a side note I did just custom tune my truck. Sadly it has not helped the clunk/thud at all. It has cleaned up the power and shifting tremendously and I'm looking forward to a shakedown run with the TT to see if there is a drivability difference while towing. Please keep us updated on the driveline shop.

 

I still wonder if a true traction bar would solve this clunk/thud if it is indeed related axle wrap? I noticed on my BIL new Ram it has traction bars as well as rear sway bar?

Posted

I wanted to give you guys the benefit of the doubt and try my truck without them. So I just removed them, tightened up my u-bolts and went for a drive. I can tell the rear doesn't feel as planted, and it does seem a bit softer, but its really hard to tell. I didn't have any clunking for my short drive, but I'm going to keep then off for a while to test it out with just tightening the u-bolts.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...