Jump to content

Strykers_Inc 2014 GMC Sierra Denali 6.2L (Vader)

Strykers_Inc

By Strykers_Inc
in Member Build Threads

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 464
  • Created
  • Last Reply
jonboy77 Enthusiast

jonboy77

Posted
Posted

Was going the motorized route, but decided against it due to limitation in space....kinda holding back on pictures until we complete this phase. I can only say it's different than anything out there, and it will show pretty nice with some really quality craftsmanship.

Removing the rear block is an option I am looking into as well as a set of belltech shackles, just don't know yet as to how it will effect bilstein 4600's.....

Yep, I have been stockpiling parts until spring, want to get the audio done first since it's all interior. Not looking forward to leaving my door panels with Kyle next month and losing control of windows....LOL...I have to roll them down every day to get through security checkpoints.....gonna be a hassle explaining..lol

Looking great. I keep up with your build. It defiantly wasn't a fly by night build like I thought in the beginning. You need to do a picture page so I don't have to flip through all the pages. Good job. Looking forward to seeing more
Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes... Lifting the seat bottom up unmatched the setback. Seat back and bottom can then fold down. The reverse procedure locks it back in place. It's secure, the remaining metal is all the way down on the metal bracket on the back wall, so instead of having about 2.5 inches of metal in the bracket you have half of that. Make sure to round the edges well before reinstalling so it doesn't hang up.

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Wow.......

 

Looks phenomenal! Definitely giving me tons of ideas for my next setup.

Thanks! If I can help you with something by all means I will try. More to come as we get things finished I will post.

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Looking great. I keep up with your build. It defiantly wasn't a fly by night build like I thought in the beginning. You need to do a picture page so I don't have to flip through all the pages. Good job. Looking forward to seeing more

When I finish this install, I will take your suggestion and make a picture page of the install. And yes, a lot of thought and prep have gone into this build. Just time consuming. Appreciate the comments.

geraldwp New Member

geraldwp

Posted
Posted

Yes... Lifting the seat bottom up unmatched the setback. Seat back and bottom can then fold down. The reverse procedure locks it back in place. It's secure, the remaining metal is all the way down on the metal bracket on the back wall, so instead of having about 2.5 inches of metal in the bracket you have half of that. Make sure to round the edges well before reinstalling so it doesn't hang up.

Sweet! Definitely a cool idea. Should make it a lot easier to access any components.

 

Why'd you have to move your amp rack? Not enough room? Worried about ventilation? Just curious, I'd definitely be going to towards to the amp rack on the back wall when I get started on my setup.

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sweet! Definitely a cool idea. Should make it a lot easier to access any components.

 

Why'd you have to move your amp rack? Not enough room? Worried about ventilation? Just curious, I'd definitely be going to towards to the amp rack on the back wall when I get started on my setup.

 

If you have a power sliding rear window or Bose System, there are electronics on the back wall. My PG amps are too large to fit lengthwise across the back wall unless I completely remove the power window motor and move the Bose amp somewhere else (requiring a crap-ton of rewiring).

 

Kyle's Silver-ay-do has his Mosconi Amps across the back wall in a metal frame and requires no cutting or adding of material. There are existing bolts the frame can mount to. But he does not have a Bose Factory system or power rear window....in that case my amps would fit and I would have done a metal frame amp rack like his.

geraldwp New Member

geraldwp

Posted
Posted

Ah ok! I knew you moved the Bose amp, or thought so anyway, but I didn't think about the rear window. I have the rear power window but hopefully I can squeeze my amps back there! Thanks man!

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ah ok! I knew you moved the Bose amp, or thought so anyway, but I didn't think about the rear window. I have the rear power window but hopefully I can squeeze my amps back there! Thanks man!

If you look at the posts I have in earlier pages you should be able to see where I have added a link to his FB page so you can see the metal frame amp rack, or message me and. Can send you one later. Thanks for checking out my build. Stay tuned!

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

UPDATE 151125

 

Finally received the neodymium magnets ordered last month so the wrapping begins. Here are a couple of shots to depict where its at right now.

 

Phoenix Gold Elite2.12D2 Installed. Base Wrap completed and Flocking completed. Trim and Inlay work to get finished yet.

151117_Sub_Enclosure_1.jpg

 

Phoenix Gold Elite2.12D2 Subwoofer wired to 1-Ohm.

151117_Sub_Enclosure_2.jpg

 

Magnets installed for covers. Prep for Flocking after the base wrapping.

151125_Amp_Enclosure_1.jpg

 

Base wrapping completed on exterior of rack enclosure.

151125_Amp_Enclosure_2.jpg

 

 

Stay tuned as there is plenty more to be done......

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I need to drop my truck off to you,, love your work man,

Thanks Clint, I wish I could take all the credit, but I cannot. I am the installer, and my friend Kyle Golden is the fabricator. I planned it out and passed on my ideas and 3D renderings. He took that, tweeked it a bit and fabs it. Mad skills.

 

https://www.facebook.com/Kyle-Golden-Audio-Fabrication-Design-1057473470951994/?ref=profile

ccdies Enthusiast

ccdies

Posted
Posted

Thanks Clint, I wish I could take all the credit, but I cannot. I am the installer, and my friend Kyle Golden is the fabricator. I planned it out and passed on my ideas and 3D renderings. He took that, tweeked it a bit and fabs it. Mad skills.

 

https://www.facebook.com/Kyle-Golden-Audio-Fabrication-Design-1057473470951994/?ref=profile

well tell him I said very nice work,

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...