Need new brakes, have a question

clark grizwald · July 14, 2015

It's a 2002 2500HD 4X4. Need new rear rotors and pads. Was advised the rotors are too worn down to be resurfaced. I'm wanting to buy my pads and rotors at Napa and have the shop install them to save a little money. I've called 2 different Napas and both say I need to remove my wheel and measure the center hole on the rotor before I can come in and buy.

I can't really do this. They have rotors for my truck with a 4.63" and a 4.84" center hole. Do these trucks actually take different size rotors between the same year models? Can anyone help me out?

The last time I had brakes put on was about 6.5 years ago and probably 78-80 thousand miles. I remember going in Napa and telling them my make model and year and they sold me the rotors and pads and I had a friend put them on. Unfortunately, have to go through a shop this time.

sahls01gmc · July 14, 2015

If yours is truly an HD (Does your badges say HD?), then you have the 4.84" center hole. The difference is the full float rear axle and semi-float rear axle.

I ask the question because mine is NOT an HD, therefor I have the smaller center hole.

clark grizwald · July 14, 2015

If yours is truly an HD (Does your badges say HD?), then you have the 4.84" center hole. The difference is the full float rear axle and semi-float rear axle.

I ask the question because mine is NOT an HD, therefor I have the smaller center hole.

Thank you for responding. Yes, it's a 2500HD. It has 4:10 gears if that matters.

sahls01gmc · July 14, 2015

You're good. Go with the 4.84" center hole, and get them installed!

clark grizwald · July 14, 2015

You're good. Go with the 4.84" center hole, and get them installed!

Thanks for the help. Not sure if you would recommend any pads and rotors over the other. I've always liked to use Napa parts, are you familiar with there line of rotors and pads by chance?

sahls01gmc · July 14, 2015

I went with Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors. Got those and AC DELCO durastop pads on Rockauto.com for $165 shipped to my house. Can't beat their prices!

As far as recommendation, I'd go with what you are comfortable with.

clark grizwald · July 14, 2015

I went with Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors. Got those and AC DELCO durastop pads on Rockauto.com for $165 shipped to my house. Can't beat their prices!

As far as recommendation, I'd go with what you are comfortable with.

OK great, thanks again for the help.

clark grizwald · July 14, 2015

I went with Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors. Got those and AC DELCO durastop pads on Rockauto.com for $165 shipped to my house. Can't beat their prices!

As far as recommendation, I'd go with what you are comfortable with.

oh yeah one more question, I still have the old Napa rotors and pads on the front because they are still good. Not sure why my back ones wore out first. Doesn't really make sense does it? I thought almost all the stopping power was in the front.

Anyways, my question; would it matter if I put on those same rotors you have even though I have the old Napa ones up front that aren't slotted and drilled?

sahls01gmc · July 14, 2015

Are you sure the fronts haven't been replaced recently? I went with the drilled and slotted on the rear because the fronts didn't need to be replaced yet. I replace the fronts usually twice before the rears need replacing. Once the fronts needs to be replaced, they will also have the drilled slotted rotors. It won't make that noticeable of a difference that you would need to be concerned.

clark grizwald · July 14, 2015

Are you sure the fronts haven't been replaced recently? I went with the drilled and slotted on the rear because the fronts didn't need to be replaced yet. I replace the fronts usually twice before the rears need replacing. Once the fronts needs to be replaced, they will also have the drilled slotted rotors. It won't make that noticeable of a difference that you would need to be concerned.

Yeah I'm sure. I had front and back replaced in January 2009. Now it's July 2015 and have taken in to 2 different shops for various things over the last 4 months and both places said the back pads and rotors need to be replaced.

sahls01gmc · July 14, 2015

Hmm, with that age I would look into the condition of your master cylinder and calipers. All of mine have had to be replaced at this point. The rear calipers hung up from not releasing and caused the pads and rotor to wear significantly quicker than usual. If they do need be replaced, spend the extra $10 and replace the hoses from the lines to the calipers as well. Cheap insurance. I spent just under $600 for new master cylinder, all 4 calipers and brake lines, and a set of pads and rotors all around by the time everything got replaced. Installed them myself, which saved money. Shop shouldn't charge too much for install, pretty simple job.

clark grizwald · July 14, 2015

Hmm, with that age I would look into the condition of your master cylinder and calipers. All of mine have had to be replaced at this point. The rear calipers hung up from not releasing and caused the pads and rotor to wear significantly quicker than usual. If they do need be replaced, spend the extra $10 and replace the hoses from the lines to the calipers as well. Cheap insurance. I spent just under $600 for new master cylinder, all 4 calipers and brake lines, and a set of pads and rotors all around by the time everything got replaced. Installed them myself, which saved money. Shop shouldn't charge too much for install, pretty simple job.

Interesting you say that. Could be a problem elsewhere. If my calipers are bad/going bad like yours were, is that something I would feel or smell if they were getting hung up?

sahls01gmc · July 14, 2015

Yeah, best way to tell is with a infrared thermometer. Even a cheap one ($30) would be able to pinpoint hot spots. I'd get one and go drive around a lil bit. Stop, and take the temperature of each rotor. Someone else can chime in with expected temperatures, but the fronts should be hotter than the rears by a decent amount.

I didn't really notice until I installed my new rotors that the rear calipers failed. The brakes smelled really hot, and when I splashed some water on them, they sizzled off of the rear rotors instantly, and only evaporated quickly off of the front ones.

clark grizwald · July 14, 2015

Yeah, best way to tell is with a infrared thermometer. Even a cheap one ($30) would be able to pinpoint hot spots. I'd get one and go drive around a lil bit. Stop, and take the temperature of each rotor. Someone else can chime in with expected temperatures, but the fronts should be hotter than the rears by a decent amount.

I didn't really notice until I installed my new rotors that the rear calipers failed. The brakes smelled really hot, and when I splashed some water on them, they sizzled off of the rear rotors instantly, and only evaporated quickly off of the front ones.

ok thanks

sdeeter19555 · July 16, 2015

As calipers age, they get stiff and require greater pedal pressure to squeeze the pads...they won't hang, they might pull if one is worse than the other (it won't clamp as hard and it will pull to the other side).

Most caliper pulling I have experienced lately was due to hanging caliper pins, not the caliper itself.

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